| Helpful points....thx all -------- Original message -------- From: 'John W Sager' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: 4/6/24 3:37 PM (GMT-06:00) To: 'Ron Waters' <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>, chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Henry Schleimer <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Paint correction/buffing/ceramic Henry, Yes, you must have been using the clay bar incorrectly. The way to do is to wash the car first with Dawn dishwashing soap. I often wash it twice if it's the first time. The Dawn isn't something you'd use all the time as it's harsh and may strip any wax, but that's what you want to do in this case. Then use a good detail spray as a lubricant for the clay. Flatten a small piece of clay and liberally spray a small section. Work the clay in straight lines, preferably with the length of the car. As it becomes dirty and don't drop it. If it gets real dirty, toss it and start with a new piece. I've been using the clay bar for ~20 years now on all sorts of cars, will all kinds of paint, without ever scratching anything. What it does is pull the dirt from the paint and it gets trapped in the clay. The detail spray lubes the clay and helps clean up the car. Personally, I think the ceramic coatings are more hype than anything, but some people swear by them. I think the ceramic product used by the pro detailers is better than the consumer products and there are some application techniques for the different ceramic products too. My personal preference is Collinite Insulator wax... BTW, Collinite's Metal Wax is the best chrome polish I've ever found. John
On Saturday, April 6, 2024 at 01:51:10 PM EDT, Henry Schleimer <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
IMHO it seems your paint looks good so I would recommend going from light to harsh rather than the other way around. That is, try a good polish first (I like NuFinish) as it takes oxidation off as well as putting polish on. If that is not good enough try scratch remover by hand. I found Meguiar’s Scratch X works wonders on old clear coat. Takes out the light scratches that show so easily in clear. If that is still not good enough, get a motorised buff and start with the finest grade and then polish. All can be done without paying “professionals”. Just be careful of corners! Only then would I recommend going to a shop if you are not happy with the finish, or do what I did and learn what they know. I learnt to colour sand new paint from books before the interweb! I colour sanded my 300C a couple of months after getting it back from the painters and letting it harden properly as per the photo. I don’t like orange peel even though that would be factory. It is a lot of work but is satisfying.
NB I tried claying once on old clear coat and it was a disaster. Just put scratches in it. Maybe I did it wrong (probably) but my theory was that the clay just picked up particles out of the paint and turned it into sandpaper. I won’t be doing that again. I won’t bother with ceramic coating either but can’t give any experience.
Henry
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ron Waters
IMHO, what you don’t want is a car with Corvette gloss. That looks very unoriginal.
It’s hard to tell how shiny your car is. But it’s a good idea to educate yourself as to how cars are professionally detailed. There are a bunch of excellent videos by the Chemical Guys on YouTube. I would be worth watching them.
It’s about 5 steps, starting with ‘claying’ the entire car. Then two polishing steps using two different compounds along with two different pads. Then a seal coat.
There are lots a ‘expert detailing’ shops that will be happy to relieve you of 1500, while doing a quick buff. It’s good to know the right questions to ask.
Ron
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of Michael Corrigan
Tim It sure looks like “it pops” to me!
Get Outlook for iOS From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of Tim <timb@xxxxxxxxxx>
Hi all...seeking opinions.
My 61G Convert was professionally body off restored in concert with Greg Grooms and Gary Goers probably in 1994-5.
I have had it 3 years. The previous owner bought it at auction freshly restored in 95. To the casual observer it looks just fine. But I have been thinking about trying to make it really pop and glow again.
I've had a few conversations with professional paint restorer people about paint correction, buffing, and ever ceramic top coating.
I am not a student of any of this. Good idea, risky idea, ad idea? Thoughts? -- -- --
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