While it is still in my head, I thought I would put down some thoughts on the front end for anyone that gives a hoot.
Even though the car has a documented 94K miles on it, that does not mean that things are all in great shape. The driver’s side lower inner bushing, the one on the long taper on this car was not just shot but scary shot. Since I swapped the control arm,
all rebuilt with new parts, I have the old arm to look at. The tapered shaft can be moved around like a giant joystick. It is that far gone. All I can say is wow. None of my previous four 300K’s had that.
The actual camber-caster adjusters. In an old thread I talked about how the replacement adjuster bolts have the “flat” the entire length of the bolt. I was concerned that the long flat would in the control arm bushing hole could move too much. Several
people chimed in that the “torque” on the bolt would not allow that. Perhaps. I found another reason why you do not want to use them. The factory bolts are set up so that you cannot in any way over torque that bolt to the point where you crush the and deform
the busing housing. The replacement bolts a threaded such that one could do that. My recommendation is to find good used ones and clean them up and re-use the.
When setting the alignment rotate the bolt head to the 12 O’clock position on both sides then set the CASTOR first then do the Camber. You will do yourself a favor if you do. Also, when apart make sure that all the mating surfaces are clean and deburred
and also do the same to the bolt “cam washers”. You are pulling the weight of the front end when rotating these things.
My only complaint is there is no way to torque the driver’s side rear adjuster nut. The power steering box is in the way. So RFT on that.
I was able to “nail” the preferred specification. On Camber, Castor, and Toe In. I will pull the car off the rack in the AM and take it for a test drive.
Best, James
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