Re: {Chrysler 300} 300 F Engine overheating

On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 1:33 PM Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

We have a page on fan clutches and fans.

See http://www.chrysler300club.com/tech/fan.htm

The clutch was first used on the Cs. It was a viscous drive unit.

It was designed to save engine power by reducing power delivered to the fan, by slipping.

It was RPM dependent. It did not respond to radiator temperature.

Smart clutches, "thermal", came out in 63 and react to temperature. They have

a coil spring on the face. As the coil spring sees heat, it opens a valve inside the

clutch allowing the fluid to flow and engage.

Viscous clutches also have this fluid. The death of a clutch is when the fluid has leaked

out the shaft seal. By the way, the best way to store a clutch is face down so the fluid can't

leak out the shaft seal.

Most Letter Cars had a fan clutch no matter if they had AC or not.

On 5/6/2024 1:13 PM, Noel Hastalis wrote:

Non-a/c 300-Fs were not fitted with declutching fans, as with my F. Several years ago, I purchased a clutch unit and fan from Murray Park and installed it. Shortly thereafter, I bought a new clutch unit at the Iola, WI swap meet and installed it. Now having driven the car probably 40,000+ miles, overheating has not been any issue, including last year's 2,400-mile roundtrip cruise to Texas.

I purchased a new clutch unit from Keith Boonstra within the past couple years, At Fredericksburg, I was told by other Club members that my fan clutch did not offer enough resistance and I should change it out. I had purchased a replacement clutch unit from Keith Boonstra not long before that, and fought for 2+ hours to install it in the Host Hotel lot at the Meet. Final outcome is that I gave up on it and reistalled my previous clutch. Looking at the neck of Keith's replacement fan clutch, its neck was too short (front-to-back) and, even if I successfully mounted it on my water pump. my fan would have been sitting too far rear from the shroud and been ineffective.

I returned the fan clutch to Keith at the Meet and he refunded my money. I don't know if he has other fan clutches with longer necks that would better serve the stated purpose here.

No one has yet suggested to Steve to check the temperature of the radiator with a handheld infrared thermometer - cheap to buy at Harbor Freight - in different areas high and low, to possibly ferret out an issue within his radiator core or possibly elsewhere. I had my radiator recored about 8 or so years ago, and again cleaned out for reinstall a couple years ago with my freshly rebuilt motor.

Noel

On 05/06/2024 11:24 AM CDT 'dave mason' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Unless the direct fan is installed with a spacer.
I’m glad you mentioned this Keith because I was going to ask folks, why a non a/c F has a clutch in the first place, as opposed to non letter 413 cars that just have a solid direct fan with a spacer? Because cross ram cars could generate more heat?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 6, 2024, at 12:19, Keith Boonstra <kboonstra.zeegroup@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I got a message from Steve this morning that I can’t find right now. Steve said that he has no fan clutch in place, just a direct mount of the fan on the water pump. So the fan is running at full speed and this is not a fan clutch problem.

However, without a fan clutch taking up space between the engine and the radiator, I’m going to guess that the problem is that the fan is now too far back from the radiator to be effectively pulling air through it.

Keith Boonstra

-

On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 6:38 AM John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

probably fan clutch , they go … hard to tell decisively too
have to watch “ new water pump “ as they sell you a 440 pump now. There are variations in 413 pumps i never got to the bottom of myself . But got bit once . Some early block front covers had metal flow directors inside behind pump others did not , add in AC or not , and i believe due to this plate the pumps changed in how far they reach into cavity . . if you put a 440 pump in you can end up with a space behind impeller and it pumps very poorly . I did not measure any of this at the time but someone may know . Confusing and erroneous data out there on this .

discussions with parts guys can get heated all they know is numbers , it is a 440 pump you get unless a part lookup from 1960 but even that crosses in computer to440 pump . Which might work depending on details of front cover cavity

There are articles about adapting i think it was JAG fan clutch too . , as the clutches vary in thickness . tech site has info on that .

Sometimes parts get mixed over 60 years wrong blades etc etc

personally if building new i’d look at modern aluminum 440 covers and pump , at least you kniw they go together , and pump fully evolved

but my bet is fan clutch

john

Sent from my iPhone

On May 5, 2024, at 3:37 PM, Steve <sbeard2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hello again from Delaware,Ohio.

Got a overheating issue.

2 weeks ago drove it 50 miles. Brought it in and it was super hot. Put a new thermostat in and temp guage was in the middle. Flushed engine today 3 times and new antifreeze.

Drove it 50 miles, temp outside 70.

Brought it in and radiator was gurgling and super hot and upper radiator hose was not the usual stuff hose.

Was steaming a little. Had radiator done within 5 years and new water pump also

Infrared temp at radiator cap 200, and engine 240.

Got a week to figure it out or a big no on driving to kokomo.

Thanks in advance.

Ps

Got a new water pump ready to go?

Thanks

Steve Beard

300 F

Delaware,Ohio

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

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