Well, I got it rebuilt. What I did was to drill out the plastic insulators to use a thicker insulated wire. I then carefully soldered the new wire to the coil ends. I used fish paper and tape to wrap the coil wires. I used heat shrink on all the wire connections and added some over the insulation on the fest couple of inches coming out where is always breaks. Getting the ticker wire to squish down when putting the coil back in was an issue. But I did get it down. I used, as did the factory, three little balls of 3M strip caulk inside so when the coil is pushed down it sticks to that does not
move. The ring then holds the thing in. I got it together and tested it and when energized I could not move the pulley. I like John’s suggestion on the soldering technique I wish I had seen it before I did it. The issue is the thick insulated wire and the holes. I am going to do another one but this time I am going to drill out the wire holes, toss the plastic bushings, and place in hole gromets and then use crosslinked Poly wire with e SXL insulation. I used some #12 that I had this time, I would
use some #14 next time. Seems to work. James From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
you might use shrink tube and heat gun over the soldered splice . it provides better than wire insulation and easy . sometimes difficult to twist two short wires . I have neared a trick after a lot of frustration . Put the two wires parallel side by side clean and shiny. Even 1/8” is enough . then bind them together with line # 26 or 28 bare tinned wire
, available on line . wrap tightly like binding a rope end . use “ 3 rd hand” alligator clip to hold lead , so will not move and a solder all quickly . Thus avoids bump of a twist or ball of solder . Then shrink tube.. better than new . have saved F wiper motors , gen field coils etc with this , even a few PW motors . hope it helps. fixing it is the way to go . Sent from my iPhone
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