{Chrysler 300} early PW switches , 300 C , others , see pix
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{Chrysler 300} early PW switches , 300 C , others , see pix



So 
 worked  a lot on 60 up style , had to get into these from a 300C 
Same problem happens but these are NICE . 
well designed electrically, better than 60 . 
usual problem - difficult to move enough to get good contact for up or down   , or no contact . 60 are often burned contact inside , partial connection happens over this . 60 comes  apart by prying back with diagonal cutters the obvious die casting “ bend ins ”
which often breaks them but back can be epoxied on, back together 
The C defied me how to open , looks like pry back (NO) it is a nice hard bakelite housing it will break immediately    
it turns out there are two recessed spring  clip U , not obvious to see at first , it splits in two down the middle(!) ? How to get them out ? digging breaks it 
I found if you get a box  cutter into split , sharp edge up , at end you can slide it up lift U slightly ,  enough to get another box cutter under it and lift up and off . Be careful of cutter,  and  also spring tends  to  suddenly fly away  .

Once open , exact same issue as the 60 . 
water ( from  rain , open  window ?) gets into switch over toggle  , rusts the short springs that give the switch its action, but even worse , the rod the spring rides on rusts too . — the rod is a tight fit in bakelite hole , soon it will not slide , now switch lever cannot rock   
Note contacts are fine  .. perfect in switch in picture 
for me , i scrape rod to shiny,  reassemble with 75 w oil ( wont rust again ) with oil on spring . Don't overdo oil , not good on contacts . Silicone oil / grease good too ! maybe DOT 5 ( laugh) wins again 
better than new… 
John  G  



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