Hi John - I've rebuilt these 57-9 power window switches. Here are some tips: Use a micro screwdriver to pry up the horseshoe spring clips. You can get a set at Harbor Freight for a few bucks. One of the few things I will buy at that junk store. Run a tiny file over the three brass contacts on the see-saw part of the switch. The three contacts on the flat, cardboard piece should be scratched up until shiny brass is very visible. Lots of folks tend to miss the middle contact, which is crucial to the operation of the switch. The 1/4" springs should be stretched out, as they have probably gotten compressed over the last 60+ years. Once assembled, you can use a continuity tester to determine if the switch is working as expected. Ron -----Original Message----- From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of John Grady Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2024 1:20 PM To: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Cc: 'Bob Meritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: {Chrysler 300} early PW switches , 300 C , others , see pix So worked a lot on 60 up style , had to get into these from a 300C Same problem happens but these are NICE . well designed electrically, better than 60 . usual problem - difficult to move enough to get good contact for up or down , or no contact . 60 are often burned contact inside , partial connection happens over this . 60 comes apart by prying back with diagonal cutters the obvious die casting “ bend ins ” which often breaks them but back can be epoxied on, back together The C defied me how to open , looks like pry back (NO) it is a nice hard bakelite housing it will break immediately it turns out there are two recessed spring clip U , not obvious to see at first , it splits in two down the middle(!) ? How to get them out ? digging breaks it I found if you get a box cutter into split , sharp edge up , at end you can slide it up lift U slightly , enough to get another box cutter under it and lift up and off . Be careful of cutter, and also spring tends to suddenly fly away . Once open , exact same issue as the 60 . water ( from rain , open window ?) gets into switch over toggle , rusts the short springs that give the switch its action, but even worse , the rod the spring rides on rusts too . — the rod is a tight fit in bakelite hole , soon it will not slide , now switch lever cannot rock Note contacts are fine .. perfect in switch in picture for me , i scrape rod to shiny, reassemble with 75 w oil ( wont rust again ) with oil on spring . Don't overdo oil , not good on contacts . Silicone oil / grease good too ! maybe DOT 5 ( laugh) wins again better than new… John G -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/A12080A1-60A3-48DA-994C-83387BA91B42%40gradyresearch.com. -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/001001db24ad%24b8755140%24295ff3c0%24%40comcast.net.