James, I agree, I did overreact. I did some research on VINs on the CA DMV site, and (to Nick’s point) actually found a statement that a VIN not held on with rivets was suspect. Imagine that, older Mopars are not on their radar. I think it was ’68 forward that all VINs had to be riveted and stricter measures were put in place to identify parts through VIN numbers to crack down on “chop shops”. My concern about VIN tampering comes from the Glassel case that some Club members may remember. Glassel was converting coupe Letter cars to convertibles by transferring the VIN from a rusted out convertible and cutting off the coupe roof, replacing it with all the convert parts. He was tried and went to prison for VIN tampering, I’ll bet those cars are still around. Bob J From: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx> Hi Bob, With respect, I think you are overreacting. DMV or CHP could care less. As long as the VIN matches the paperwork it matters little. Keep in mind that this is NOT A Vehicle Identification Number Plate but merely a serial number plate. VIN’s did not exist until 1966 and the VIN tampering law does not apply to anything prior to 1966 technically. As to people looking at it and wondering…I could care less… as like I said 99% of the world has no idea of what is “correct”. I think that I will glue it and use two, correct sized for the hole, tap in screws that can be pulled back out with a plier and twisting motion. The only other option is to hunt down a spot welder… James From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx> James, I acknowledge that the holes are there. I’m told that the holes were used for an alignment tool prior to tack welding the plate. Yes, if you had the right size rivet it wouldn’t be necessary to do any drilling. The issue that remains is that the factory did not rivet these on, and rivets would be plainly visible and new looking. Some type of carefully applied adhesive is the solution here, not rivets. I realize that you will be using the car for regular transportation, and it’s your car to do what you want with it, but rivets will stick out like a sore thumb to anyone that knows these cars. Another alternative is to contact DMV and see what they have to say. I may seem like I’m overreacting, but if you were to get approval from DMV to install rivets (maybe they would do it) at least you’d have documentation to support them being there. Bob From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Hi Bob. There are holes there from the factory. See the 1964 assembly manual. The factory used the holes to align the plate and then spot welded next to each hole toward the inside. The assembly manual had a good drawing of how it is to attach. I think I will put a dab of trim adhesive under it and then use two U head tap in screws that are the proper size for the holes. As to the whole bit about if it looks like it us tamped with…most of that is hogwash. I could just as easy rent a spot welder and nobody would know the difference. In fact 99.9% of the DMV or Police officials have zero idea of what looks correct and what does not. I have photos of the plate before, and I will take some after so it will be documented. We had to take the data plates off the body of my XKE before it was dipped as they were aluminum and would have dissolved in the tank. In the end of the day it is all about documentation. Funny thing is that THE FACTORY screwed up on this car and did not place it correctly in the first place. Not only did they not align the holes, but they also spot welded it in the wrong place according to the assembly manual. James From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx> James, I would absolutely NOT drill holes and rivet the VIN back on. Instead I would carefully reattach it with epoxy (JB weld) or some adhesive to affix it as it was. If you were to rivet it back on, you will have to drill non-original holes, and use non-original rivets to secure it in place. Tampering with a VIN plate is a federal offence, and if a 300 expert gets involved and sees a riveted VIN plate they would say it was tampered with. As a consultant for the 300 Inc Club, if I got a call from someone telling me the VIN was riveted on I would tell them the VIN was tampered with and to stay away from any consideration of purchasing the car if it were offered for sale. Don’t do it. Bob J From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> I was working on the 300K the other day and my boot caught the plate on the driver’s side door pillar. It came clean off. The factory spot welds were not too deep on this one. So, since I do not have a spot welder, how would one put it back on. There are alignment holes in the door pillar as well as the plate. In fact the assembly manual shows to line up the holes and spot weld it just below on the inside of the holes. My thoughts are:
Anyone want to chime in? James. -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/005b01db5a43%2477790490%24666b0db0%24%40comcast.net. |
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