Re: !!!&$%^^ Heater Core/Control Valve

[Red Thrasher <moparred@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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Hey Guys,  For what it is worth I just finished reconditioning the heater
box on a 66 Belvedere 2 with a new core bought on e-bay for $59.00 including
shipping.  The heater does not use a water valve or a vacuum actuator, only
2 cable slides and a fan switch.  The heater box can be removed by removing
the cables and 3 nuts on the outer firewall.  No big deal and a lot easier
to work on laying on the work bench.  HAND----Red
----- Original Message -----
From: "Schuyler Wrobel" <schuyler62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2004 1:43 AM
Subject: Re: !!!&$%^^ Heater Core/Control Valve


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> I had this problem about 15 years ago so my memory a little fogged, the
> heater control valve was leaking like a sieve
> so we took the heater-core out or maybe just the valve? anyway at the
> time there was noway to fix it or find a replacement
> so we had it welded up. I remember the guy welded a penny on the end of
> the valve that was leaking, which of coarse
> rendered it useless, but water could pass through without leaking. so,
> we stuck everything back in and put a inline
> valve on the heater hose that flows into the heater core. so with a
> longer cable the same lever still controls how much
> heat or hot coolant flows into the heater core but now the lever works
> in reverse. Probably not the best way to fix it
> but thats what we came up with at the time. and yes, there is a big
> hole rusted through the floorboard under the gas
> pedal which I covered with some sheet aluminum stuck into place with
> some roofing tar. again, not the best way
> to fix it but it cost me nothing.
>
> nowadays you can probably find a new heater-core or control valve on
> ebay
> and someone on the list may have some better Ideas?
>
> Schuyler
>
> Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
>   <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
>
> On Nov 7, 2004, at 1:31 PM, Allen Sullivant wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > Mine was leaking, so I bypassed it for the summer and
> > forgot about it.  Now I could use heat/defrost again, and
> > I've piddled away the whole summer without fixing anything.
> > So I just hooked everything up again and took a look.
> >
> > When I crawl up under the dash, I notice no obvious leaks
> > until I push the heat lever over to hot.  Then water practically
> > pours out from around the mounting bracket for the heater
> > control valve.  I would think that is my problem.  The passenger
> > floor is dry.  The driver floor has several weak/rotted places
> > where antifreeze got to it, and coolant drips on my shoe when
> > it's on the gas pedal.
> >
> > Question 1:  Can you replace the heater control valve without
> > taking the whole dang heater box apart?  Looks like I can
> > disconnect the heater hose and remove two screws
> > on the flange and pull it out.  I know there's an O ring
> > seal where it fits into the core, which I can probably get
> > at the hardware store.
> >
> > Question 2:  I found a used control valve and heater core
> > on Ebay a few months ago, which appear to be OK.  No
> > way to tell if the valve is good unless I install it, right?
> >
> > Question 2:  Is there any relatively easy way to take the
> > control valve out of the loop?  Just run hose directly to
> > the core or something?  I don't mind having hot water
> > in the core all the time or whatever.  Don't mind it staying
> > warm in the car.  I had a '49 Hudson with an after-market
> > Arvin heater once, and it kept hot water in it all the time
> > unless I turned two knobs on some rigged up bypass in
> > the hoses under the hood,  which took the heater out
> > of the coolant loop.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> > Allen Sullivant
> > Brentwood, Tenn.
> > 62 Dart 440 See-dan
> > dart440@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
>
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



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