Re: Crankshafts: 318 Poly vs. 340 Forged
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Re: Crankshafts: 318 Poly vs. 340 Forged



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Tony,
With their parts and the 417HP goal, a Poly crank would be fine. If you are serious about 500HP you would want to stroke the 340 with a 4" crank which I think is a far better package and will get you to the mark.
There are many stroker packages out there is much of the same parts as the Edelbrock package.


Gary Pavlovich
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony G." <xzaofreakx@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 4:50 AM
Subject: RE: Crankshafts: 318 Poly vs. 340 Forged



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Gary,

Thank you for your reply.

My plans with the engine are my 340 block 0.030 over bored, all five
ProGram billet 4 bolt main caps, 318 poly crank?, eagle h-beam rods,
diamond racing pistons (flat top), edelbrock aluminum heads with roller
rockers & some porting, final compresion ratio around 10:1. I'm not
quite sure if I will actually get it to 500hp. I am hoping I can get
very close to that based on the dyno test at edelbrock:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/7176pp.html where they got 417HP &
397 Ft/Lbs of torque out of a 340. I do not want to use NOS or forced
induction. Any suggestions on how to raise the HP above edelbrock's test
results? Without nos, will my poly crank hold out fine? Thanx!

-Tony

Gary Pavlovich wrote:

Tony,


The steel Poly crank would probably take it as cast cranks are often
used in
440 race motors with great durability but the big block cranks are
nestled
well-into the block and the small block Mopar crank is below much of the

protective/strengthening block webbing.
You will probably have to spin the 340 into the 7000rpm range and that
creates exponential stresses over a 6000rpm motor.
I like to "over-engineer" my motors and if I were shooting for 500HP I
would
not compromise on an integral piece as the crank/rods/pistons.

500HP will take quite a few dollars and you should run H-beam rods with
your
crank.
Additionally, you did not mention how you were going to achieve 500HP;
if it
is via nitrous then I would step up to a stronger "race-style"
crankshaft.
I would use a forged steel crank from Callies or Eagle and that will set
you
back $900 plus internal balancing.

I would query other experienced list members as well.
Gary Pavlovich


----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony G." <xzaofreakx@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 5:27 PM
Subject: Crankshafts: 318 Poly vs. 340 Forged



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I am looking into using a crank out of a 1963 or 1964 poly 318 in my
1972 340 project. How strong is this crank compared to later ones? Would
it be wise to use it in a 340 that will most likely push up to 500hp?
Thank you.

-Tony

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!


'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.


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