RE: Torsion bar removal

[Kevin Merkley <krmerkley@xxxxxxxxx>]

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Hi,

If you intend to remove the LCA also, then remove the nut on the LCA to 
K member stud and push everything backwards.  The LCA will come out of 
the K member and the torsion bar will likely come off the LCA then.  
That is what I did and it was rather painless.

Another idea is that thre may be some residual twist in the bar that is 
not allowing the bar to simply slide back.  Separate one of the ball 
joints to allow the LCA to move further than normal.

Regards,

K.

Gary Futrell wrote:
> 
> The adjuster bolt is all the way out, weight's off of
> the LCA, and the clip is out.  Beyond my better
> judgement, I went ahead and used a propane torch to
> mildly heat each socket. Still no luck. I guess I'll
> just make a daily trip to garage to take a few wacks
> at the removal tool until this thing comes out. I've
> bent the removal tool over a couple of times and just
> got through breaking one of the tool's clamp bolts. On
> the positive side, my biceps have gotten a good
> workout.
> 
>     Gary
> 
> 
> > The simple questions (the ones i always overlook)
> > 1.  Adjuster bolt all the way out?
> > 2.  All weight off the LCA?
> > 3.  Clip behind the bar in the socket out?
> > 4.  Tried moving the bar _forward_, then back, to
> > let the penetrant
> >      work its' way in better
> > 
> > Again, just the basics that I forget when I get
> > frustrated.
> > 
> > Then again there's the BIGGER F**KING HAMMER :)
> > 
> > Oh, and I read somewhere that someone had heated the
> > socket with a 
> > torch, though they said that was not recommended. 
> > But it worked for 
> > them.  I would guess one would use a propane torch,
> > not a welding rig!
> > 
> > Good luck!
> > 
> 



Kevin R. Merkley
Thunder Bay, Ontario
64 Dodge 440 2dr HT (Cdn)

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