Re: faults - either electrical or logical (both?)
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Re: faults - either electrical or logical (both?)



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The first thing I would check would be the solenoid connections. Especially
the big wire where it connects to the big post. Sometimes they will touch
the smaller wires next to them and cause your problem. Make sure there is
clearance around the big wire. If they are not touching, I'd then suspect
the solenoid itself.  I've never seen a neutral safety switch cause your
problem as all it does is ground. Good luck, Gary Bradshaw
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Casey" <dcasey@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 1:03 AM
Subject: Re: faults - either electrical or logical (both?)


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The starter has power at the big post all the time (from the positive
battery cable). The small terminal on the starter is for the solenoid coil
on the starter (applying 12V to this wire will make kick the solenoid in the
starter and make it turn using the power supplied at the big post).
The relay on the firewall is used to trigger the power to the smaller post
on the starter, instead of sending it through your ignition switch. This
relay is also used as a wiring junction point under the hood (its where your
positive battery cable also goes, and where every part of the car but the
starter gets its power).
There are four terminals on this small rectangular relay. The first is the
large post, which is the 12V junction point I just described. Below that is
a smaller screw terminal, which is for the smaller wire to small terminal on
the starter. The other two terminals are spade style and they're for the
coil of this relay. One connects to the start position of the ignition
switch and gets 12V when you turn the key to "Start". The other is grounded
by the neutral safety switch, completing the circuit only when the car is in
neutral/park. On stick shift cars, the second spade terminal is bent back
and soldered to the relay case to permanently ground it as such cars were
not equipped with any neutral safety switches.
Verify that everything is in order here and you're likely to find your
problem.

Dave Casey
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Free" <gpfree@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 12:29 AM
Subject: faults - either electrical or logical (both?)


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> I am getting my 65 Cuda back on the road after 2 yr hiatus.  Problems
> before I parked it were that the battery would drain overnight and the
> neutral safety switch seemed to have given up.
>
> I installed a circuit interrupter between the + terminal and the starter,
> rather than chase down the leakage source, because I have a pressing need
> to get down the road.  This was no help.  When I complete the circuit with
> the interrupter key, the starter kicked in - without a key in the
> ignition??
>
> I then guessed that the ignition switch might be the source of leakage,
> but removing it completely did nothing to change things.  This leads me to
> believe either the solenoid is stuck or the neutral safety switch somehow
> shunts the ignition switch and supplies constant power to the solenoid?
> The thing I don't want to think about is a short in the wiring harness.
>
> Anyone have experience with this?  Can anyone shed some light on tracking
> this down?
>
>
> --
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.

[AD removed for archives]
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Need a new washer and dryer set? You could get one free!
caadzTWbOyW3Nf/ProductTestPanel
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



bOyW3N.









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