Re: Digest for 1962to1965mopars@, issue 2638

From: Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>

Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 23:17:35 -0400

[AD removed for archives] ------------------------------------------------------------------- Get $1000.00 Overnight! Fast and Easy! No Credit Checks! Many Lenders are 100% Paperless! Let The Wizard Find the right Lender for you! caadFX6bOyW3Na/911PaydayAdvance ------------------------------------------------------------------- Lieber von hench. nein ich habe keine tielnummer und kein katolog auch. (Dear von hench no I have no part number and no catalog also. I have to go to the dealer several miles away and wait till the right guy is on duty and then ask to see it and look up my parts. I ask them to order me a catalog but he says they are in short supply. I have to take my V 10 in next week for the updates (Why they would bother on a 11 year old truck with 238000 km is beyond me but it is free to me so I will go.) When i am there ich werde das tielnummer gern finden. OK? Don Author of Return to Deutschland (True Adventure) Old Reliable (Mopar) http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises ----- Original Message ----- From: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:32 PM Subject: Digest for 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx, issue 2638 -- Topica Digest -- points By big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx !/4 second By big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx Re: huh?? distributor mystery By bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx 65 Belvedere - electric fan, fuel pump, etc. By jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx Satellite convertible By drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx Carb Tuning By moparred@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx Re: Satellite convertible By bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx RE: big dollar mistake By earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx "anodized color effect" spray paint By pluckedchickens@xxxxxxxxxxx 61 Dodge bumper width? By hell_fish_65@xxxxxxxxxxx Re: Satellite convertible By mopar4me@xxxxxxxxxxx Re: Satellite convertible By drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx Re: Satellite convertible By bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx Re: 65 Belvedere - electric fan, fuel pump, etc. By baddd65@xxxxxxxxx Re: Satellite convertible By jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx need some help By bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx Re: single 4mw By vonhench@xxxxxxx Re: Satellite convertible By D170A833@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx RE: 65 Belvedere - electric fan, fuel pump, etc. By ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx RE: 65 Belvedere - electric fan, fuel pump, etc. By baddd65@xxxxxxxxx RE: 65 Belvedere - electric fan, fuel pump, etc. By ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx RE: big dollar mistake By tpuig@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Convertible Top Question By tduross1@xxxxxxxxxxx Re: huh?? distributor mystery By tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx Re: need some help By tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx Engine removal By krmerkley@xxxxxxxxx Re: Engine removal By peaver63@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx Wonder if this will work By RCoronetfreak@xxxxxxx Re: Convertible Top Question By bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx RE: need some help By furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 08:44:00 -0400 From: "Don Dulmage" <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: points One of the most common errors is thinking the spark occurs when the points close. it fdoesnt it happens when tey open. I dont know if this is correct here. but it is a possiblility Don Author of Return to Deutschland (True Adventure) Old Reliable (Mopar) http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 08:40:50 -0400 From: "Don Dulmage" <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: !/4 second A rad cooling, fan consumes 30 hp at 60 MPH in the average automobile Alternators can be worked out in watts and converted to HP but about 3 to 5 hp would be true. The cooling fan with the Moroso pump drive is also my favourite and i use the Auto switch installed in the pump to be sure I dont forget. The gains are undenialble. We used to charge the battery between rounds and I had read the car would run faster with an alternator but I have watched several friends and engine customers follow the leader on this trend. So far I have seen no concrete gains but I guess with enough electronics on board it is possible. (Like no one went from 11.0 too 10.95 secs) The original parisitic fan loss tests were done by jaquar by the way. Don Author of Return to Deutschland (True Adventure) Old Reliable (Mopar) http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 09:19:11 -0400 From: "Bob Fortson" <bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: huh?? distributor mystery A backward distributor cap ? Or a Frank Sinatra 273 maybe...( as in .. "I do it my wayyyyyyyyeeee") I know, I know....tain't funny Mcgee.. Bob Fortson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert neal zimmerman" <northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 12:24 AM Subject: huh?? distributor mystery [AD removed for archives] ------------------------------------------------------------------- Need Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now! No Credit Checks, Easy & Fast Approval Cash in you account Overnight! caadFXWbNLZuMa/911PaydayAdvance ------------------------------------------------------------------- I recently took out my distributor in my 273. I put in new points and condensor and got the points gapped at .017 just like my book said. I put the distributor back in, wired it all up according to the manual, plug wires in the SUPPOSEDLY correct holes as per manual diagram . RUNS LIKE CRAP, have to way advance it to get it to start and stay running, then when u hit the gas a big fall on its nose then takes of poorly. When i move the plug wires on the cap one notch counterclockwise ( i.e.- 8 goes to 1 hole, 4 goes to 8 hole, etc.) it fires up beautifully and runs great with lots of power. So one would say - "Silly Neal, the distributor driveshaft is in a tooth off", right ? Wrong- I checked it twice, it points just exactly where my book says it should, slot pointing at first forward intake manifold bolt on drivers side over cylinder #1 . What the heck is going on? Neal Zimmerman, eugene oregon -- http://www.fastmail.fm - A fast, anti-spam email service. [AD removed for archives] ------------------------------------------------------------------- Get $1000.00 Overnight! Fast and Easy! No Credit Checks! Many Lenders are 100% Paperless! Let The Wizard Find the right Lender for you! caadFX6bNLZuMf/911PaydayAdvance ------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 10:32:33 -0400 From: Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: 65 Belvedere - electric fan, fuel pump, etc. I recently bought a '65 Belvedere that is set up as a drag car with a 383. I'm not an experienced drag racer (though I'd like to be), and I'd like to get a little insight into some of the 'goodies' it has.=20 I'm trying to make a little more street-friendly, but I plan to take it to the track sometimes. 1. It has Barry Grant electric fuel pump. The fuel pump is connected to the windshield wiper switch, which is tied to the ignition. Is there a reason I wouldn't always keep the fuel pump on? Or, am I able to drive on the street without it and get better mileage? 2. It has an electric radiator fan on it's own switch, which is NOT tied to the ignition. If I forget to switch it off, I kill the battery. Is there a reason not to connect it the ignition and have it always on? 3. It's a shifted-automatic with a 727 torqueflite and Hurst slap-stick shifter. There's a button on the shifter nob that I haven't figured out yet what it does. Maybe a line-lock? Are there any techniques/dangers for street driving I should be aware of? It seems pretty straight-forward; like driving a stick without the foot pedal. When I slow down to stop and I'm in third, I'm tending to slow all the way down to almost stop with the brake; I'm not down-shifting. Thanks. - Jim Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge), '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge), '71 Bronco ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 07:36:27 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rodgers <drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Satellite convertible I am looking at puchasing a 426 Street wedge 65 Satellite convertible. It is a restored car with a 426 street wedge. How can I tell if it was an original 426 car? I know the serial number doesn't show it and the car doesn't have a build sheet. The car does have a build tag. This is an expensive restored car so any help would be appreciated __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 09:43:58 -0500 From: "Red Thrasher" <moparred@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Carb Tuning Hello Group. I have a 62 Dart 413 with dual inline 4's. They are AFB's, #3258 front and 3259 rear. On the front of each carb between the two idle mixture screws there is a larger screw called "by-pass idle air adjustment". I have a Carter book that shows the parts breakdown and covers just about everything you would ever want to know about these carbs, BBBBBUUUTTTT, I cannot find one word listed about how to set the by-pass idle adjustment. Any of you carb experts got any clues on this??? Thanks and HAND-------Red [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 10:49:15 -0400 From: "Bob Fortson" <bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Satellite convertible This is in no way to be "official" information...but... On the engine ID pad (on the engine itself) there is a number...it will have the code 42 if the engine is a factory build (first two digits of 426) it will be 41 if it was a 413. it also will show HP (high performance) on some year models... However...these engines were "racing" configurations in those years and also came in lighter, stripped down bodies. It is a stone cold fact that there were no 1963 Max wedge CONVERTIBLES manufactured...at least not according to all the info I can find. The convertible bodies were way heavier than than the others...also...by the year 65 the "Hemi" 426 was the rage and would have been the "big boy" of choice for that kind of car...I'm not even sure the 426 Max wedge was offered in 1965...others will know for sure. All that said... If you like the car..buy it. If you're looking for numbers correct stuff...danger ! danger ! If you're looking for an investment...buy old guns ! Bob Fortson (just my humble opinion !) ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Rodgers" <drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:36 AM Subject: Satellite convertible >I am looking at puchasing a 426 Street wedge 65 > Satellite convertible. It is a restored car with a > 426 street wedge. How can I tell if it was an > original 426 car? I know the serial number doesn't > show it and the car doesn't have a build sheet. The > car does have a build tag. This is an expensive > restored car so any help would be appreciated > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 08:57:45 -0600 From: "Earl Helm" <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: big dollar mistake This will give you all the info you need.... Earl http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm OK, I need to ask u guys something. A year ago i bought a big block a-833 setup from a 71 challenger: It is a complete setup, from pedals ,z-bar, clutch arm, brand new hump, brand new pistol grip, etc. I spent a goodly sum on it. I was going to put it in my 71 charger that i had at the time. Well, i got rid of the charger and all of my Charger stuff this spring ( yeah same old story, too many projects, not enuf time, KISS, keep it simple stupid , blah,blah blah) so heres the problem: I got this setup sitting in the corner of my shop. I guess my question is will this setup swap into any other Mopars. ( like earlier B-bodies or an A-body) .Or am I screwed. Neal Zimmerman, eugene oregon -- http://www.fastmail.fm - Access your email from home and the web [AD removed for archives] ------------------------------------------------------------------- Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy! No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax! Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour! caadFX2bV1hOjf/911PaydayAdvance ------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 08:17:36 -0700 From: "Douglas Sutherland" <pluckedchickens@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: "anodized color effect" spray paint This is pretty cool stuff! It mimicks the transparent "anodized aluminum" colors used on many of the emblems and badges on my '64 Sport Fury. It looks so much better than the regular paint and it's a spray -- so you have no brush marks. Just clean the metal, mask off the area and spray a thin coat. It is transparent color with very bright red and blue hues. About $7-$9 per spray can -- found it at my local auto paint store. The paint is made by Dupli¥Color, named MetalCast "anodized color effect" _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 15:29:11 +0000 From: "Dustin C." <hell_fish_65@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: 61 Dodge bumper width? I know this is a little off topic, but does anyone know the inside width of a 61 bumper? I think its the same for Dart and Polara. http://www.drmopar.com/61polara.jpg to see what Im talking about. Im thinking about using one on a hotrod project, but need to find out if it will fit. Thanks Dustin http://www.crcmotorsports.com 65 Barracuda "Commando V8" www.geocities.com/hell_fish_65/ http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/dustinc.html "If it jams force it, if it breaks it needed fixing anyway." ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 11:37:37 -0400 From: "Don Hudson" <mopar4me@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Satellite convertible If you have the fender tag, look under the "AB" letters. If a 426 street wedge (426CI 365 horse), it will have the numbers 80 under the AB. Other numbers possible for this vehicle could be: 20 - 225 slant 6 30 - 273 2 barel 40 - 318 poly 50 - 361 2 barrel 60 - 383 2 barrel 61 - 383 4 barrel 80 - 426 4 barrel To my knowledge no 413s were put in 65 B Bodies (#'s 70 or 71) Thje number under the "D" represents the transmission 1 or 2 - 3 speed col 3 - 4 speed 5 - torqueflite Hope this helps. Don ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Fortson" <bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:49 AM Subject: Re: Satellite convertible > [AD removed for archives] > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy! > No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax! > Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour! > caadFX2bOyFyta/911PaydayAdvance > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > This is in no way to be "official" information...but... > On the engine ID pad (on the engine itself) there is a number...it will > have the code 42 if the engine is a factory build (first two digits of > 426) it will be 41 if it was a 413. it also will show HP (high > performance) on some year models... > However...these engines were "racing" configurations in those years and > also came in lighter, stripped down bodies. > It is a stone cold fact that there were no 1963 Max wedge CONVERTIBLES > manufactured...at least not according to all the info I can find. The > convertible bodies were way heavier than than the others...also...by the > year 65 the "Hemi" 426 was the rage and would have been the "big boy" of > choice for that kind of car...I'm not even sure the 426 Max wedge was > offered in 1965...others will know for sure. > All that said... > > If you like the car..buy it. > > If you're looking for numbers correct stuff...danger ! danger ! If you're > looking for an investment...buy old guns ! > Bob Fortson (just my humble opinion !) > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Rodgers" <drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:36 AM > Subject: Satellite convertible > > >>I am looking at puchasing a 426 Street wedge 65 >> Satellite convertible. It is a restored car with a >> 426 street wedge. How can I tell if it was an >> original 426 car? I know the serial number doesn't >> show it and the car doesn't have a build sheet. The >> car does have a build tag. This is an expensive >> restored car so any help would be appreciated >> >> __________________________________________________ >> Do You Yahoo!? >> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around >> http://mail.yahoo.com >> > > [AD removed for archives] > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get a Free T-Mobile Sidekick II plus $500 towards service! Click here. > caadGKUbOyFytf/ProductTestPanel > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content > signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 08:50:48 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rodgers <drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Satellite convertible Don and everybody thanks for the info. The build tag does shoes the number 80 and the number 5 so it was a 426 car. I have the decoding books for the 1966 and on cars. Thanks --- Don Hudson <mopar4me@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Your free subscription is supported by today's > sponsor: > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get a Free T-Mobile Sidekick II plus $500 towards > service! > Click here. > caadGKUbPWHbsa/ProductTestPanel > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > If you have the fender tag, look under the "AB" > letters. If a 426 street > wedge (426CI 365 horse), it will have the numbers 80 > under the AB. Other > numbers possible for this vehicle could be: > 20 - 225 slant 6 > 30 - 273 2 barel > 40 - 318 poly > 50 - 361 2 barrel > 60 - 383 2 barrel > 61 - 383 4 barrel > 80 - 426 4 barrel > To my knowledge no 413s were put in 65 B Bodies (#'s > 70 or 71) > > Thje number under the "D" represents the > transmission > 1 or 2 - 3 speed col > 3 - 4 speed > 5 - torqueflite > Hope this helps. > Don > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Fortson" <bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:49 AM > Subject: Re: Satellite convertible > > > > Your free subscription is supported by today's > sponsor: > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy! > > No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To > Fax! > > Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the > Hour! > > > caadFX2bOyFyta/911PaydayAdvance > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > This is in no way to be "official" > information...but... > > On the engine ID pad (on the engine itself) there > is a number...it will > > have the code 42 if the engine is a factory build > (first two digits of > > 426) it will be 41 if it was a 413. it also will > show HP (high > > performance) on some year models... > > However...these engines were "racing" > configurations in those years and > > also came in lighter, stripped down bodies. > > It is a stone cold fact that there were no 1963 > Max wedge CONVERTIBLES > > manufactured...at least not according to all the > info I can find. The > > convertible bodies were way heavier than than the > others...also...by the > > year 65 the "Hemi" 426 was the rage and would have > been the "big boy" of > > choice for that kind of car...I'm not even sure > the 426 Max wedge was > > offered in 1965...others will know for sure. > > All that said... > > > > If you like the car..buy it. > > > > If you're looking for numbers correct > stuff...danger ! danger ! If you're > > looking for an investment...buy old guns ! > > Bob Fortson (just my humble opinion !) > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "David Rodgers" <drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx> > > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> > > Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:36 AM > > Subject: Satellite convertible > > > > > >>I am looking at puchasing a 426 Street wedge 65 > >> Satellite convertible. It is a restored car with > a > >> 426 street wedge. How can I tell if it was an > >> original 426 car? I know the serial number > doesn't > >> show it and the car doesn't have a build sheet. > The > >> car does have a build tag. This is an expensive > >> restored car so any help would be appreciated > >> > >> > __________________________________________________ > >> Do You Yahoo!? > >> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam > protection around > >> http://mail.yahoo.com > >> > > > > Your free subscription is supported by today's > sponsor: > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Get a Free T-Mobile Sidekick II plus $500 towards > service! Click here. > > > caadGKUbOyFytf/ProductTestPanel > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > ---- > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one person -- > > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car > transactions and > > negotiations as well as other personal messages > only to the intended > > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. > This practice will protect > > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and > fine tune the content > > signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > > > > > > > > > Your free subscription is supported by today's > sponsor: > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Need a new washer and dryer set? You could get one > free! > caadGKXbPWHbsf/ProductTestPanel > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., > send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well > as other personal messages only to the intended > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This > practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total > volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to > Mopar topic. Thanks! > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > > > ____________________________________________________ Yahoo! Sports Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 12:10:31 -0400 From: "Bob Fortson" <bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Satellite convertible I happily have learned something ! Bob Fortson ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Rodgers" <drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 11:50 AM Subject: Re: Satellite convertible > Don and everybody thanks for the info. The build tag > does shoes the number 80 and the number 5 so it was a > 426 car. I have the decoding books for the 1966 and > on cars. Thanks > > --- Don Hudson <mopar4me@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > >> Your free subscription is supported by today's >> sponsor: >> > ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> Get a Free T-Mobile Sidekick II plus $500 towards >> service! >> Click here. >> > caadGKUbPWHbsa/ProductTestPanel >> > ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> If you have the fender tag, look under the "AB" >> letters. If a 426 street >> wedge (426CI 365 horse), it will have the numbers 80 >> under the AB. Other >> numbers possible for this vehicle could be: >> 20 - 225 slant 6 >> 30 - 273 2 barel >> 40 - 318 poly >> 50 - 361 2 barrel >> 60 - 383 2 barrel >> 61 - 383 4 barrel >> 80 - 426 4 barrel >> To my knowledge no 413s were put in 65 B Bodies (#'s >> 70 or 71) >> >> Thje number under the "D" represents the >> transmission >> 1 or 2 - 3 speed col >> 3 - 4 speed >> 5 - torqueflite >> Hope this helps. >> Don >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Bob Fortson" <bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx> >> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> >> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:49 AM >> Subject: Re: Satellite convertible >> >> >> > Your free subscription is supported by today's >> sponsor: >> > >> > ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> > Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy! >> > No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To >> Fax! >> > Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the >> Hour! >> > >> > caadFX2bOyFyta/911PaydayAdvance >> > >> > ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> > >> > This is in no way to be "official" >> information...but... >> > On the engine ID pad (on the engine itself) there >> is a number...it will >> > have the code 42 if the engine is a factory build >> (first two digits of >> > 426) it will be 41 if it was a 413. it also will >> show HP (high >> > performance) on some year models... >> > However...these engines were "racing" >> configurations in those years and >> > also came in lighter, stripped down bodies. >> > It is a stone cold fact that there were no 1963 >> Max wedge CONVERTIBLES >> > manufactured...at least not according to all the >> info I can find. The >> > convertible bodies were way heavier than than the >> others...also...by the >> > year 65 the "Hemi" 426 was the rage and would have >> been the "big boy" of >> > choice for that kind of car...I'm not even sure >> the 426 Max wedge was >> > offered in 1965...others will know for sure. >> > All that said... >> > >> > If you like the car..buy it. >> > >> > If you're looking for numbers correct >> stuff...danger ! danger ! If you're >> > looking for an investment...buy old guns ! >> > Bob Fortson (just my humble opinion !) >> > ----- Original Message ----- >> > From: "David Rodgers" <drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx> >> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> >> > Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:36 AM >> > Subject: Satellite convertible >> > >> > >> >>I am looking at puchasing a 426 Street wedge 65 >> >> Satellite convertible. It is a restored car with >> a >> >> 426 street wedge. How can I tell if it was an >> >> original 426 car? I know the serial number >> doesn't >> >> show it and the car doesn't have a build sheet. >> The >> >> car does have a build tag. This is an expensive >> >> restored car so any help would be appreciated >> >> >> >> >> __________________________________________________ >> >> Do You Yahoo!? >> >> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam >> protection around >> >> http://mail.yahoo.com >> >> >> > >> > Your free subscription is supported by today's >> sponsor: >> > >> > ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> > Get a Free T-Mobile Sidekick II plus $500 towards >> service! Click here. >> > >> > caadGKUbOyFytf/ProductTestPanel >> > >> > ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> > >> > ---- >> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to >> only one person -- >> > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car >> transactions and >> > negotiations as well as other personal messages >> only to the intended >> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. >> This practice will protect >> > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and >> fine tune the content >> > signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! >> > >> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> Your free subscription is supported by today's >> sponsor: >> > ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> Need a new washer and dryer set? You could get one >> free! >> > caadGKXbPWHbsf/ProductTestPanel >> > ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> ---- >> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to >> only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., >> send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well >> as other personal messages only to the intended >> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This >> practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total >> volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to >> Mopar topic. Thanks! >> >> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: >> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. >> >> >> >> > > > > > ____________________________________________________ > Yahoo! Sports > Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football > http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 09:59:48 -0700 (PDT) From: tom hecht <baddd65@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: 65 Belvedere - electric fan, fuel pump, etc. #1, some people have an electric and mechanical fuel pump, if you have a mechanical pump on the engine, then you do not need to have the electric on. these set-ups just use the electric to force feed the mechanical pump. (not very common) that said, if your fuel lines are not running through a mechanical pump, you will need to run the pump to keep the engine fed. usually this is hooked to the key so when the car is off, the pump is off, the wiper switch was just an available switch already mounted in the car. (sometimes a theft deterrant) #2, the fan is wired so after you shut the car off, you can keep the fan on to cool the radiator, this is often coupled with an electric water pump, which keeps the cooled water running through the block. #3, caution!!!, do not do your burnouts in 1st gear!!! either start in first and shift right away or start in 2nd when burning out. if you downshift the trans from drive to 2nd it will downshift!!!, no different than downshifting a 4-speed car. (picture your head hitting the windsheild) the manual auto usually has a feature which allows you to downshift from second through first, directly into neutral, that is, it allows you to shift into first, without actually down shifting the trans into first, you will get used to down shifting from drive to 2nd and sliding it through 1st and into nuetral when you stop, like putting a 4 speed into nuetral at stops. (it is a manual trans)nuetral to first locks it back into 1st. as far as the manual valve body goes, if you don't like it, you can easily replace it with a normal valve body. the manual does not lose any shifting time like a normal trans, that is its only purpose. #3b,you should be able to see a line lock mechanism in your brakelines, under the hood. if there is no line lock, you may have a transbrake. usually you have to hold the button to make the car backup, so it is likely a linelock. sounds like a well set-up car, good luck at the track!! tom 65 satellite --- Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > I recently bought a '65 Belvedere that is set up as > a drag car with a > 383. I'm not an experienced drag racer (though I'd > like to be), and > I'd like to get a little insight into some of the > 'goodies' it has. > I'm trying to make a little more street-friendly, > but I plan to take > it to the track sometimes. > > 1. It has Barry Grant electric fuel pump. The fuel > pump is connected > to the windshield wiper switch, which is tied to the > ignition. Is > there a reason I wouldn't always keep the fuel pump > on? Or, am I able > to drive on the street without it and get better > mileage? > > 2. It has an electric radiator fan on it's own > switch, which is NOT > tied to the ignition. If I forget to switch it off, > I kill the > battery. Is there a reason not to connect it the > ignition and have it > always on? > > 3. It's a shifted-automatic with a 727 torqueflite > and Hurst > slap-stick shifter. There's a button on the shifter > nob that I > haven't figured out yet what it does. Maybe a > line-lock? Are there > any techniques/dangers for street driving I should > be aware of? It > seems pretty straight-forward; like driving a stick > without the foot > pedal. When I slow down to stop and I'm in third, > I'm tending to slow > all the way down to almost stop with the brake; I'm > not down-shifting. > > Thanks. > > - Jim > Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY > '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge), '65 Belvedere I (Street > Wedge), '71 Bronco > __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:02:18 -0400 From: Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Satellite convertible David, For $45 you can get a letter and build sheet from Chrysler Historical verifying your car based on the VIN. See below for info. http://www.chryslerheritage.com/pg904.htm If you're in a desparate rush, I can give you an email address off-line. I wouldn't want to post it without permission. I don't have a phone number. Also, if you're in a rush and want to confirm stamping numbers and such, Galen Govier will answer 10 email questions for $50. http://www.gvgovier.com/services.htm FYI, the block should have an A426 stamped on it. - Jim Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge), '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge), '71 Bronco ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:25:41 -0400 From: "Bob Fortson" <bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: need some help I just cancelled my order with a dealer of TTI exhaust for a max wedge exhaust system for my '63 Fury conv. He called and told me that they "didn't have anything to fit the big swoopy exhaust manifolds" for my car.... Since I can't order directly (they don't accept credit cards)...I need a part number or some information or something. I am correct that they DO HAVE what I need...right? Bob Fortson '63 Fury conv. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:36:44 -0400 From: "vonhench" <vonhench@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: single 4mw Geehrter Herr des gutenmorgens, kann verwenden geben mich, den die Teilnummer für das Mopar maximalen Einlaßkrümmer des Keils vier single. Ich habe nicht einen Katalog. Dank Sie, (Can you supply me with the part number of the single four Max Wedge intake manifold, I do not have a catalog) Thank You VonHench VonHench ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Dulmage" <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 7:36 AM Subject: single 4mw [AD removed for archives] ------------------------------------------------------------------- Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy! No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax! Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour! caadFX2b6QZ2ua/911PaydayAdvance ------------------------------------------------------------------- Ja , genau . yes exactly Author of Return to Deutschland (True Adventure) Old Reliable (Mopar) http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [AD removed for archives] ------------------------------------------------------------------- Need Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now! No Credit Checks, Easy & Fast Approval Cash in you account Overnight! caadFXWb6QZ2uf/911PaydayAdvance ------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:32:39 -0400 From: Doug Ahern <D170A833@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Satellite convertible On 36 06/29/05, David Rodgers wrote: > I am looking at puchasing a 426 Street wedge 65 > Satellite convertible. It is a restored car with a > 426 street wedge. How can I tell if it was an > original 426 car? I know the serial number doesn't > show it and the car doesn't have a build sheet. The > car does have a build tag. This is an expensive > restored car so any help would be appreciated While the fender tag should reflect the engine correctly, it is very important to verify the fender tag actually belongs to that car! The "So number" on the tag will be stamped into the radiator core support. The number on the core support starts with a digit that describes the manufacturing plant, and then it continues with the SO#. On my 64 Dart the number is on top of the core support, under what was once the coolant information sticker. On my 63 330 (b-body), its on the side of the core support that faces the engine bay (driver's side), as it is on my 66 Coronet. if this guy did a full restoration, he ought to be familiar with number. If he applied so much paint that its not readable and he isn't happy sanding the paint down to be able to read the number, hopefully he can produce some pre-paint process pictures that would convince you that the fender tag matches the car. Also, be aware that fender tag are reproduced, sometimes with incorrect data.... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 19:26:31 +0000 From: <ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: 65 Belvedere - electric fan, fuel pump, etc. I wouldn't advise starting in 2nd gear with a manual shift auto trans. My buddy did that by acccident once, taking off in 2nd thinking he was in 1st and blew the side out of his tranny, ruined the case. Maybe it was just a fluke, but it made a believer outta me! Jeff tom hecht wrote: > > #1, some people have an electric and mechanical fuel > pump, if you have a mechanical pump on the engine, > then you do not need to have the electric on. these > set-ups just use the electric to force feed the > mechanical pump. (not very common) > that said, if your fuel lines are not running through > a mechanical pump, you will need to run the pump to > keep the engine fed. usually this is hooked to the key > so when the car is off, the pump is off, the wiper > switch was just an available switch already mounted in > the car. (sometimes a theft deterrant) > > #2, the fan is wired so after you shut the car off, > you can keep the fan on to cool the radiator, this is > often coupled with an electric water pump, which keeps > the cooled water running through the block. > > #3, caution!!!, do not do your burnouts in 1st gear!!! > either start in first and shift right away or start in > 2nd when burning out. > > if you downshift the trans from drive to 2nd it will > downshift!!!, no different than downshifting a 4-speed > car. (picture your head hitting the windsheild) > the manual auto usually has a feature which allows you > to downshift from second through first, directly into > neutral, that is, it allows you to shift into first, > without actually down shifting the trans into first, > you will get used to down shifting from drive to 2nd > and sliding it through 1st and into nuetral when you > stop, like putting a 4 speed into nuetral at stops. > (it is a manual trans)nuetral to first locks it back > into 1st. > as far as the manual valve body goes, if you don't > like it, you can easily replace it with a normal valve > body. > the manual does not lose any shifting time like a > normal trans, that is its only purpose. > > #3b,you should be able to see a line lock mechanism in > your brakelines, under the hood. if there is no line > lock, you may have a transbrake. usually you have to > hold the button to make the car backup, so it is > likely a linelock. > > sounds like a well set-up car, good luck at the > track!! > tom > 65 satellite > > > --- Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > I recently bought a '65 Belvedere that is set up as > > a drag car with a > > 383. I'm not an experienced drag racer (though I'd > > like to be), and > > I'd like to get a little insight into some of the > > 'goodies' it has. > > I'm trying to make a little more street-friendly, > > but I plan to take > > it to the track sometimes. > > > > 1. It has Barry Grant electric fuel pump. The fuel > > pump is connected > > to the windshield wiper switch, which is tied to the > > ignition. Is > > there a reason I wouldn't always keep the fuel pump > > on? Or, am I able > > to drive on the street without it and get better > > mileage? > > > > 2. It has an electric radiator fan on it's own > > switch, which is NOT > > tied to the ignition. If I forget to switch it off, > > I kill the > > battery. Is there a reason not to connect it the > > ignition and have it > > always on? > > > > 3. It's a shifted-automatic with a 727 torqueflite > > and Hurst > > slap-stick shifter. There's a button on the shifter > > nob that I > > haven't figured out yet what it does. Maybe a > > line-lock? Are there > > any techniques/dangers for street driving I should > > be aware of? It > > seems pretty straight-forward; like driving a stick > > without the foot > > pedal. When I slow down to stop and I'm in third, > > I'm tending to slow > > all the way down to almost stop with the brake; I'm > > not down-shifting. > > > > Thanks. > > > > - Jim > > Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY > > '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge), '65 Belvedere I (Street > > Wedge), '71 Bronco > > > > > > > __________________________________ > Yahoo! Mail > Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: > http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html > Jeff Adams 64 Polara ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 14:01:09 -0700 (PDT) From: tom hecht <baddd65@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: 65 Belvedere - electric fan, fuel pump, etc. that is worth noting jeff, but, i was referring to burnouts. i have a cheetah valve body,the instructions say: "All water burnouts should be started in 2nd gear shifting to 3rd if necesary. If you should start burnout in 1st, shift immediately to 2nd before tires come out of water." also, "No matter if you have a transbrake or not, we suggest NOT DOING DRY BURNOUTS!" that is from turbo action, makers of cheetah v.b.'s i have a good friend with a 10 second dart who is also a 727 specialist, he is the person who originally told me to not do burnouts in 1st gear. your point is probably well taken for street driving though. tom 65 satellite --- ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: > I wouldn't advise starting in 2nd gear with a manual > shift auto trans. > My buddy did that by acccident once, taking off in > 2nd thinking he was > in 1st and blew the side out of his tranny, ruined > the case. Maybe it > was just a fluke, but it made a believer outta me! > Jeff > tom hecht wrote: > > > > #1, some people have an electric and mechanical > fuel > > pump, if you have a mechanical pump on the engine, > > then you do not need to have the electric on. > these > > set-ups just use the electric to force feed the > > mechanical pump. (not very common) > > that said, if your fuel lines are not running > through > > a mechanical pump, you will need to run the pump > to > > keep the engine fed. usually this is hooked to the > key > > so when the car is off, the pump is off, the wiper > > switch was just an available switch already > mounted in > > the car. (sometimes a theft deterrant) > > > > #2, the fan is wired so after you shut the car > off, > > you can keep the fan on to cool the radiator, this > is > > often coupled with an electric water pump, which > keeps > > the cooled water running through the block. > > > > #3, caution!!!, do not do your burnouts in 1st > gear!!! > > either start in first and shift right away or > start in > > 2nd when burning out. > > > > if you downshift the trans from drive to 2nd it > will > > downshift!!!, no different than downshifting a > 4-speed > > car. (picture your head hitting the windsheild) > > the manual auto usually has a feature which allows > you > > to downshift from second through first, directly > into > > neutral, that is, it allows you to shift into > first, > > without actually down shifting the trans into > first, > > you will get used to down shifting from drive to > 2nd > > and sliding it through 1st and into nuetral when > you > > stop, like putting a 4 speed into nuetral at > stops. > > (it is a manual trans)nuetral to first locks it > back > > into 1st. > > as far as the manual valve body goes, if you don't > > like it, you can easily replace it with a normal > valve > > body. > > the manual does not lose any shifting time like a > > normal trans, that is its only purpose. > > > > #3b,you should be able to see a line lock > mechanism in > > your brakelines, under the hood. if there is no > line > > lock, you may have a transbrake. usually you have > to > > hold the button to make the car backup, so it is > > likely a linelock. > > > > sounds like a well set-up car, good luck at the > > track!! > > tom > > 65 satellite > > > > > > --- Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > > > I recently bought a '65 Belvedere that is set up > as > > > a drag car with a > > > 383. I'm not an experienced drag racer (though > I'd > > > like to be), and > > > I'd like to get a little insight into some of > the > > > 'goodies' it has. > > > I'm trying to make a little more > street-friendly, > > > but I plan to take > > > it to the track sometimes. > > > > > > 1. It has Barry Grant electric fuel pump. The > fuel > > > pump is connected > > > to the windshield wiper switch, which is tied to > the > > > ignition. Is > > > there a reason I wouldn't always keep the fuel > pump > > > on? Or, am I able > > > to drive on the street without it and get better > > > mileage? > > > > > > 2. It has an electric radiator fan on it's own > > > switch, which is NOT > > > tied to the ignition. If I forget to switch it > off, > > > I kill the > > > battery. Is there a reason not to connect it > the > > > ignition and have it > > > always on? > > > > > > 3. It's a shifted-automatic with a 727 > torqueflite > > > and Hurst > > > slap-stick shifter. There's a button on the > shifter > > > nob that I > > > haven't figured out yet what it does. Maybe a > > > line-lock? Are there > > > any techniques/dangers for street driving I > should > > > be aware of? It > > > seems pretty straight-forward; like driving a > stick > > > without the foot > > > pedal. When I slow down to stop and I'm in > third, > > > I'm tending to slow > > > all the way down to almost stop with the brake; > I'm > > > not down-shifting. > > > > > > Thanks. > > > > > > - Jim > > > Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY > > > '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge), '65 Belvedere I > (Street > > > Wedge), '71 Bronco > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > > Yahoo! Mail > > Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the > tour: > > http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html > > > > > > Jeff Adams > 64 Polara > > Your free subscription is supported by today's > sponsor: > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get a Free Sirius Satellite Package, don't pass on > this! > caadGKVbOgXg2f/ProductTestPanel > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., > send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well > as other personal messages only to the intended > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This > practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total > volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to > Mopar topic. Thanks! > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > This email was sent to: baddd65@xxxxxxxxx > > EASY UNSUBSCRIBE click here: > bOgXg2.YmFkZGQ2 > === message truncated === __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 21:50:53 +0000 From: <ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: 65 Belvedere - electric fan, fuel pump, etc. My buddy's breakage could have also had nothing to do with what gear he started out in, too. Jeff tom hecht wrote: > > that is worth noting jeff, but, i was referring to > burnouts. > > i have a cheetah valve body,the instructions say: > "All water burnouts should be started in 2nd gear > shifting to 3rd if necesary. If you should start > burnout in 1st, shift immediately to 2nd before tires > come out of water." also, "No matter if you have a > transbrake or not, we suggest NOT DOING DRY BURNOUTS!" > > that is from turbo action, makers of cheetah v.b.'s > i have a good friend with a 10 second dart who is also > a 727 specialist, he is the person who originally told > me to not do burnouts in 1st gear. > > your point is probably well taken for street driving > though. > > tom > 65 satellite > > > --- ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: > > > > I wouldn't advise starting in 2nd gear with a manual > > shift auto trans. > > My buddy did that by acccident once, taking off in > > 2nd thinking he was > > in 1st and blew the side out of his tranny, ruined > > the case. Maybe it > > was just a fluke, but it made a believer outta me! > > Jeff > > tom hecht wrote: > > > > > > #1, some people have an electric and mechanical > > fuel > > > pump, if you have a mechanical pump on the engine, > > > then you do not need to have the electric on. > > these > > > set-ups just use the electric to force feed the > > > mechanical pump. (not very common) > > > that said, if your fuel lines are not running > > through > > > a mechanical pump, you will need to run the pump > > to > > > keep the engine fed. usually this is hooked to the > > key > > > so when the car is off, the pump is off, the wiper > > > switch was just an available switch already > > mounted in > > > the car. (sometimes a theft deterrant) > > > > > > #2, the fan is wired so after you shut the car > > off, > > > you can keep the fan on to cool the radiator, this > > is > > > often coupled with an electric water pump, which > > keeps > > > the cooled water running through the block. > > > > > > #3, caution!!!, do not do your burnouts in 1st > > gear!!! > > > either start in first and shift right away or > > start in > > > 2nd when burning out. > > > > > > if you downshift the trans from drive to 2nd it > > will > > > downshift!!!, no different than downshifting a > > 4-speed > > > car. (picture your head hitting the windsheild) > > > the manual auto usually has a feature which allows > > you > > > to downshift from second through first, directly > > into > > > neutral, that is, it allows you to shift into > > first, > > > without actually down shifting the trans into > > first, > > > you will get used to down shifting from drive to > > 2nd > > > and sliding it through 1st and into nuetral when > > you > > > stop, like putting a 4 speed into nuetral at > > stops. > > > (it is a manual trans)nuetral to first locks it > > back > > > into 1st. > > > as far as the manual valve body goes, if you don't > > > like it, you can easily replace it with a normal > > valve > > > body. > > > the manual does not lose any shifting time like a > > > normal trans, that is its only purpose. > > > > > > #3b,you should be able to see a line lock > > mechanism in > > > your brakelines, under the hood. if there is no > > line > > > lock, you may have a transbrake. usually you have > > to > > > hold the button to make the car backup, so it is > > > likely a linelock. > > > > > > sounds like a well set-up car, good luck at the > > > track!! > > > tom > > > 65 satellite > > > > > > > > > --- Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > > > > > I recently bought a '65 Belvedere that is set up > > as > > > > a drag car with a > > > > 383. I'm not an experienced drag racer (though > > I'd > > > > like to be), and > > > > I'd like to get a little insight into some of > > the > > > > 'goodies' it has. > > > > I'm trying to make a little more > > street-friendly, > > > > but I plan to take > > > > it to the track sometimes. > > > > > > > > 1. It has Barry Grant electric fuel pump. The > > fuel > > > > pump is connected > > > > to the windshield wiper switch, which is tied to > > the > > > > ignition. Is > > > > there a reason I wouldn't always keep the fuel > > pump > > > > on? Or, am I able > > > > to drive on the street without it and get better > > > > mileage? > > > > > > > > 2. It has an electric radiator fan on it's own > > > > switch, which is NOT > > > > tied to the ignition. If I forget to switch it > > off, > > > > I kill the > > > > battery. Is there a reason not to connect it > > the > > > > ignition and have it > > > > always on? > > > > > > > > 3. It's a shifted-automatic with a 727 > > torqueflite > > > > and Hurst > > > > slap-stick shifter. There's a button on the > > shifter > > > > nob that I > > > > haven't figured out yet what it does. Maybe a > > > > line-lock? Are there > > > > any techniques/dangers for street driving I > > should > > > > be aware of? It > > > > seems pretty straight-forward; like driving a > > stick > > > > without the foot > > > > pedal. When I slow down to stop and I'm in > > third, > > > > I'm tending to slow > > > > all the way down to almost stop with the brake; > > I'm > > > > not down-shifting. > > > > > > > > Thanks. > > > > > > > > - Jim > > > > Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY > > > > '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge), '65 Belvedere I > > (Street > > > > Wedge), '71 Bronco > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > > > Yahoo! Mail > > > Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the > > tour: > > > http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html > > > > > > > > > > > Jeff Adams > > 64 Polara > > > > Your free subscription is supported by today's > > sponsor: > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Get a Free Sirius Satellite Package, don't pass on > > this! > > > caadGKVbOgXg2f/ProductTestPanel > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > ---- > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > > only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., > > send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well > > as other personal messages only to the intended > > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This > > practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total > > volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to > > Mopar topic. Thanks! > > > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > > > > This email was sent to: baddd65@xxxxxxxxx > > > > EASY UNSUBSCRIBE click here: > > http:///help/unsub.html.YmFkZGQ2 > > > === message truncated === > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com Jeff Adams 64 Polara ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 23:47:55 +0000 From: 62-65 list <tpuig@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: big dollar mistake What mistake? Sounds like you've got the perfect setup for somebody with a '71 E body. They seem to pay the most anyway... TP Robert neal zimmerman wrote: > > > OK, I need to ask u guys something. > A year ago i bought a big block a-833 setup from a 71 challenger: > It is a complete setup, from pedals ,z-bar, clutch arm, brand new > hump, brand new pistol grip, etc. I spent a goodly sum on it. > I was going to put it in my 71 charger that i had at the time. > Well, i got rid of the charger and all of my Charger stuff this > spring ( yeah same old story, too many projects, not enuf time, KISS, > keep it simple stupid , blah,blah blah) > so heres the problem: I got this setup sitting in the corner of my > shop. > I guess my question is will this setup swap into any other Mopars. ( > like earlier B-bodies or an A-body) .Or am I screwed. > Neal Zimmerman, eugene oregon > > -- > http://www.fastmail.fm - Access your email from home and the web > Tony Puig Mountain View, CA '65 Coronet 500 'vert tpuig@xxxxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 19:42:28 -0400 From: "Tom Duross" <tduross1@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Convertible Top Question I spent about an hour today trying to figure out how to adjust the angle of the top as it closes. The passenger side hits about an inch before the driver's side does. There seems some adjustment to the pistons and that's it, I think. (smoke bellowing out my ears) It seems to be getting worse so maybe a piston seal is going? Anybody know about these? It's a 65 Belv2. Also- Does anyone know if anyone (I sound like Jackie Gleason here) makes the plastic inserts that the convertible top pins slide into when the top comes in contact with the top of the windshield? There's a hole that recieves the pin and it has a plastic sleeve in it. My "sleeves" are cracked. Thanks boys and girls. Happy 4th of July to you all (y'all). ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 19:16:19 -0600 From: "Tom Watters" <tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: huh?? distributor mystery What is your dwell? On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 21:24:44 -0700, "Robert neal zimmerman" <northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx> said: > [AD removed for archives] > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Need Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now! > No Credit Checks, Easy & Fast Approval > Cash in you account Overnight! > caadFXWbVb6jBa/911PaydayAdvance > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > I recently took out my distributor in my 273. I put in new points and > condensor and got the points gapped at .017 just like my book said. > I put the distributor back in, wired it all up according to the > manual, plug wires in the SUPPOSEDLY correct holes as per manual > diagram . > RUNS LIKE CRAP, have to way advance it to get it to start and stay > running, then when u hit the gas a big fall on its nose then takes > of poorly. > When i move the plug wires on the cap one notch counterclockwise ( > i.e.- 8 goes to 1 hole, 4 goes to 8 hole, etc.) it fires up > beautifully and runs great with lots of power. > So one would say - "Silly Neal, the distributor driveshaft is in a > tooth off", right ? > Wrong- I checked it twice, it points just exactly where my book says > it should, slot pointing at first forward intake manifold bolt on > drivers side over cylinder #1 . > What the heck is going on? > Neal Zimmerman, eugene oregon > > -- > http://www.fastmail.fm - A fast, anti-spam email service. > > [AD removed for archives] > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get $1000.00 Overnight! Fast and Easy! > No Credit Checks! Many Lenders are 100% Paperless! > Let The Wizard Find the right Lender for you! > caadFX6bVb6jBf/911PaydayAdvance > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > Tom 65 Dart GT 'vert 68 Plymouth 'vert Las Vegas, NV -- http://www.fastmail.fm - mmm... Fastmail... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 19:26:27 -0600 From: "Tom Watters" <tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: need some help I got my TTI Stuff through Mancini Racing, who did take credit cards. It wasnt for a Max Wedge car, though. You should be able to call either TTI or Mancini find correct part numbers for what you need. Check TTI website is at -> http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Exhaust-MW/Max%20Wedge.htm On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:25:41 -0400, "Bob Fortson" <bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx> said: > I just cancelled my order with a dealer of TTI exhaust for a max wedge > exhaust system for my '63 Fury conv. He called and told me that they > "didn't have anything to fit the big swoopy exhaust manifolds" for my > car.... > > Since I can't order directly (they don't accept credit cards)...I need a > part number or some information or something. I am correct that they DO > HAVE what I need...right? > > Bob Fortson '63 Fury conv. Tom 65 Dart GT 'vert 68 Plymouth 'vert Las Vegas, NV -- http://www.fastmail.fm - I mean, what is it about a decent email service? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2005 02:04:45 +0000 From: Kevin Merkley <krmerkley@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Engine removal Hi, I am going to pull the 313 out of my Dodge on Friday and want to know if the engine can come out with the hood still in place. I'm only pulling the engine so it looks to me that the engine can be lifted (with a cherry picker) and moved forward and up over the rad support. I have always removed the hood in the past but I just had the car painted nad really do not want to pull the hood. Can it be done? Thanks, K. Kevin R. Merkley Thunder Bay, Ontario 64 Dodge 440 2dr HT (Cdn) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 21:10:30 -0500 From: Jimmy Peavy <peaver63@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Engine removal Pull the hood. Jimmy Kevin Merkley wrote: >Hi, > >I am going to pull the 313 out of my Dodge on Friday and want to know if >the engine can come out with the hood still in place. > >I'm only pulling the engine so it looks to me that the engine can be >lifted (with a cherry picker) and moved forward and up over the rad >support. > >I have always removed the hood in the past but I just had the car >painted nad really do not want to pull the hood. > >Can it be done? > >Thanks, > >K. > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 22:23:02 EDT From: RCoronetfreak@xxxxxxx Subject: Wonder if this will work Group, Sorry for sending this test but hopefully I fixed my problem. Rick [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 22:28:22 -0400 From: "Bob Fortson" <bobt1885@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Convertible Top Question Get a copy of the service manual for your car if you can...My 63 'vert has adjustments in the cables on the side of the frame to help with this also... I don't have my manual here to look it up but there are several places to adjust the angles and fit on each side. Bob Fortson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Duross" <tduross1@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 7:42 PM Subject: Convertible Top Question [AD removed for archives] ------------------------------------------------------------------- Need a new washer and dryer set? You could get one free! caadGKXbNLZuMa/ProductTestPanel ------------------------------------------------------------------- I spent about an hour today trying to figure out how to adjust the angle of the top as it closes. The passenger side hits about an inch before the driver's side does. There seems some adjustment to the pistons and that's it, I think. (smoke bellowing out my ears) It seems to be getting worse so maybe a piston seal is going? Anybody know about these? It's a 65 Belv2. Also- Does anyone know if anyone (I sound like Jackie Gleason here) makes the plastic inserts that the convertible top pins slide into when the top comes in contact with the top of the windshield? There's a hole that recieves the pin and it has a plastic sleeve in it. My "sleeves" are cracked. Thanks boys and girls. Happy 4th of July to you all (y'all). [AD removed for archives] ------------------------------------------------------------------- Get a Free T-Mobile Sidekick II plus $500 towards service! Click here. caadGKUbNLZuMf/ProductTestPanel ------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2005 02:32:12 +0000 From: Nick Tiberio <furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: need some help Bob, You may call TTI at 951-371-4878 and they will give you all the part numbers. There are 17 distributors in the US. You orders through them and TTI ships it to you. For your 63 Vert the complete 3" Max Wedge system with mufflers is Part No. B30MAX-S6365. Without mufflers is B30MAX-NM6365 They will fit those "Big Swoppy Exhaust Manifolds". I have a list of all the distributors, Mancini Racing is one of them. Nick Tiberio 63 Fury Bob Fortson wrote: > > > I just cancelled my order with a dealer of TTI exhaust for a max wedge > exhaust system for my '63 Fury conv. He called and told me that they > "didn't have anything to fit the big swoopy exhaust manifolds" for my > car.... > > Since I can't order directly (they don't accept credit cards)...I need a > part number or some information or something. I am correct that they DO > HAVE what I need...right? > > Bob Fortson '63 Fury conv. > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > ------------------------------ ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. End of 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx digest, issue 2638 [AD removed for archives] ------------------------------------------------------------------- Take movies and games anywhere with a Free Playstation Portable! caadGKZbOyW3Nf/ProductTestPanel ------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. bOyW3N.

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