Re: Digest for 1962to1965mopars@, issue 2733
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Re: Digest for 1962to1965mopars@, issue 2733
- From: Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 07:59:45 -0400
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dwell angle
Yup. Less gap more dwell.
If you have a dwell meter forget the feeler gauges and just adjust forproper
dwell
Don
Author of
Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
Old Reliable (Mopar)
http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
----- Original Message -----
From: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 8:24 PM
Subject: Digest for 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx, issue 2733
-- Topica Digest --
RE: Dwell Angle
By Don_Dabbs@xxxxxxx
Re: Ebay Listing
By mopar4me@xxxxxxxxxxx
Dwell Angle
By big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx
HP figures
By big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx
valve mystery
By northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx
saggy doors
By northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx
Re: Dwell Angle
By 6t4belvedere@xxxxxxxxxxx
swap meet ad
By 62to65mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx
Re: valve mystery
By Skagdrager@xxxxxxx
Re: saggy doors
By drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx
Re: saggy doors
By peaver63@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Re: saggy doors
By bt6t4@xxxxxxxxx
Cars for sale
By wedge65@xxxxxxxxxxx
Re: Headlights and bulbs
By bt6t4@xxxxxxxxx
Re: saggy doors
By kaldad1@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Vendor
By bt6t4@xxxxxxxxx
Vendor II
By bt6t4@xxxxxxxxx
Re: Dwell Angle
By HootowlKY@xxxxxxx
Re: valve mystery
By HootowlKY@xxxxxxx
Re: Vendor II
By peaver63@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Rear axle housing stud
By gary-futrell@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Re: 383 intake not sealing
By baddd65@xxxxxxxxx
Re: Rear axle housing stud
By Dodger7998@xxxxxxx
Re: Rear axle housing stud
By gary-futrell@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Re: HP figures
By Joeydahook9@xxxxxxx
Re: valve mystery
By djohn14296@xxxxxxxxx
RE: valve mystery
By skpowell@xxxxxxxxxxxx
HP figures
By djohn14296@xxxxxxxxx
RE: Rear axle housing stud
By ntolerance@xxxxxxxxxxx
Re: Vendor II
By georgelaurie@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 07:25:20 -0500
From: <Don_Dabbs@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Dwell Angle
Dwell angle the the angle of you points opening when compared to the
angle on you lobe of the dist that breakes the points... If you cant get
a good .28-.33, I would suggest that your points rubbing block or dist
lobe are worn down too bad.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Duross [mailto:tduross1@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 4:48 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Dwell Angle
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Hi Campers,
Just what is this thing called a dwell angle?
OK, I'll back up a little......
My 64 Belv's poly started running rough at idle the past few, no maybe
the past couple of weeks.
I thought maybe a bad batch of very expensive gas but I'm through 2
tanks now and the last was a whopping 50 dollars.
I thought I'd try and do a little curbside tune-up so I pulled the cap
and rotor, nice and clean.
Checked the points, right around 015", maybe 017" but right there with
the specs (014-019).
The air cleaner is a little dirty, shook it out and turned it around.
The plugs were dirty, carbon only but I haven't taken her for a long
highway ride in a while, mostly just around town.
I cleaned them up just fine with an old toothbrush and some gas, gap is
030 so I opened it to 035.
Idle hot was about 830 and I slowed it down to 750.
The dwell angle though, I couldn't get up past 26-27 degrees and it's
supposed to be 28-33.
Should I have checked the timing? I can't right now because I dropped
the timing light into the fan. :P
Ka-POW! You should have seen the cat and dog bolt! Man, right out from
under the car (cah).
I have to get another one soon. I will tomorrow, probably at Sears.
So what is this dwell angle telling me? Is it advance? It drops when I
speed the engine up.
I'm embarrassed to admit that I don't know just what this measurement
is.
Can you guys help (and don't tell anyone)?
Tom Duross
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 08:55:00 -0400
From: "Don Hudson" <mopar4me@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ebay Listing
Nice looking car!!!
Don
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 08:44:44 -0400
From: "Don Dulmage" <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dwell Angle
Dwell angle is the number of degrees during which the points are CLOSED or
"dwelling toegether" as it were.
During this time the magnetic field in the coil primary is building up. It
is important because it has so little time to do so. When the Points OPEN
the magnetic field collapes and a voltage is induced in the coil seconadry
winding which produces the spark.
A couple of reasons proper dwell is not available.
Distributor bushing worn so shaft can be moved sideways in the dist
housing.
Dwell meter set on wrong setting or wrong scale being read.
Dwell affects spark strength and timing. directly
Don
Re hemi Hp rating concepts. I see i wastalking about something otherthan
the rest. Sorry i had only had one coffee at the time.
By the way I am still a big hemi fan just in case anyone gets the wrong
idea.
Don
Author of
Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
Old Reliable (Mopar)
http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 08:30:13 -0400
From: "Don Dulmage" <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: HP figures
I believe the Hp figures were pretty accurate.
After all this was during the HP race.
A race hemi I am sure was good for 500 hp but we are talking about a street
hemi.
That has 2 full points less compression and a mild cam (I think around 284
and under 500 ;lift. )
If you can make 500 hp with that sign me up I want one.
I had a 68 Street hemi converted back to race specs (12.5 to 1) although I
kept the street hemi heads. I used a Erson 999xx cam and it was a strong
good working engine (and is still around by the way)
It produced 550 hp using the weight Mp charts which I and others generally
believe are fairly accurate since the car will NOT go any faster than it has
hp to push it.
Also many street hemis do not run as stong as one wishes. A really really
good stock one will push a 68 charger to mid to low 13s in street trim with
a reasonably decent set of tires(Hoosiers or MTs). Many , lacking a
competent tune up will run in the 14s . Hardly what one would expect from a
500 hp engine.
The 390 Hp 6 pack were a good match for the street hemis.
If the Street hemi was 500 then the race hemi must have been 640 hp, I dont
think so.
My $.02
Don
Author of
Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
Old Reliable (Mopar)
http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 08:40:14 -0700
From: "Robert neal zimmerman" <northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: valve mystery
i'll ask again, how could my slant six have run so good with an intake
vave sludged open?
after the Marvel M.Oil treatment shes fine, but I just dont get how
it ran so good before with a valve stuck open.
neal zimmerman, eugene oregon
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wherever you are
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 08:37:37 -0700
From: "Robert neal zimmerman" <northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: saggy doors
what does one do about worn out door hinges. Is there somebody that
sells new hinges or a way to rebuild them, like rebuild kits?
neal zimmerman, eugene oregon
--
http://www.fastmail.fm - Or how I learned to stop worrying and
love email again
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 12:26:32 -0400
From: "Tom Duross" <6t4belvedere@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dwell Angle
Thanks guys, I feel better now.
I'm gonna get one of those wire style feeler gauges.
I'm still using the old flat blade one I stole from my Dad 20 years ago,
that might help get a better gap read.
So set the gap on the points, plug the vacuum advance hose from the carb and
check the timing, then check the dwell angle?
Now if the angle is still below spec, I should decrease the gap?
Tom "Mr. Dwell" Duross
Boston
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Dulmage" <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 8:44 AM
Subject: Dwell Angle
[AD removed for archives]
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Dwell angle is the number of degrees during which the points are CLOSED or
"dwelling toegether" as it were.
During this time the magnetic field in the coil primary is building up. It
is important because it has so little time to do so. When the Points OPEN
the magnetic field collapes and a voltage is induced in the coil seconadry
winding which produces the spark.
A couple of reasons proper dwell is not available.
Distributor bushing worn so shaft can be moved sideways in the dist
housing.
Dwell meter set on wrong setting or wrong scale being read.
Dwell affects spark strength and timing. directly
Don
Re hemi Hp rating concepts. I see i wastalking about something otherthan
the rest. Sorry i had only had one coffee at the time.
By the way I am still a big hemi fan just in case anyone gets the wrong
idea.
Don
Author of
Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
Old Reliable (Mopar)
http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[AD removed for archives]
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Need Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now!
No Credit Checks, Easy & Fast Approval
Cash in you account Overnight!
caadVJ4bNUHLgf/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 17:16:24 +0000
From: Gary H. <62to65mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: swap meet ad
Hi all,
Here's another ad just posted to the '62 to '65 Swap Meet.
Thanks,
Gary H.
~~~~
I am selling a 1965 Plymouth Sport Fury...Car has a 383, 727 Auto,
Edelbrock Carb, New Dual Exhaust, Recent Paint, 15" Chrysler Wheels,
Factory Tach, Console, Much More!!! Email for pics...serious inquiries
only please bltfitts@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 13:26:37 EDT
From: Skagdrager@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: valve mystery
In a message dated 9/5/05 8:41:32 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
i'll ask again, how could my slant six have run so good with an intake
vave sludged open?
after the Marvel M.Oil treatment shes fine, but I just dont get how
it ran so good before with a valve stuck open.
neal zimmerman, eugene oregon
Neal,
What you experienced was a little known feature Mopar built into the
distributors on some of the later slant 6's.
When the compression in any one cylinder drops below 25psi, it triggers the
dihedral transmogrification, which, in essence, de-elevates the distributor
pattern from it's normal alpha 6 exponents of merely beta potential
harmonics,
into prime centrifugal exponents of the stedenzic aolean cosmic stanza,
pentastar five.
Ma Mopar had all the bases covered back in the 60's.
And of course when you fixed the valve, it converted right back.
Pretty slick, Huh?
Paul
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 10:37:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rodgers <drodgers2003@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: saggy doors
Try www.superbirdbob.com, he will probably need your
cores. He has some done if you check out his sight.
Dave
--- Robert neal zimmerman
<northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Your free subscription is supported by today's
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> Jerry's® or Häagen-Dazs® ice cream for
> participating!
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> Cream Research Survey
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> what does one do about worn out door hinges. Is
> there somebody that
> sells new hinges or a way to rebuild them, like
> rebuild kits?
> neal zimmerman, eugene oregon
>
> --
> http://www.fastmail.fm - Or how I learned to stop
> worrying and
> love email again
>
> Your free subscription is supported by today's
> sponsor:
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>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person -- directly to that person. I.e.,
> send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
> as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
> practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
> volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
> Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>
>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 12:47:04 -0500
From: Jimmy Peavy <peaver63@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: saggy doors
Kramer sells rebuild kits.
Jimmy
Robert neal zimmerman wrote:
>what does one do about worn out door hinges. Is there somebody that
>sells new hinges or a way to rebuild them, like rebuild kits?
> neal zimmerman, eugene oregon
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 11:29:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: george smith <bt6t4@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: saggy doors
I sent mine to Superbirdbob.Pretty sure thaqt's his
name.He does have a website,plus he's in Wa. state or
Ore. Cost me 195 and that included shipping about 2
yrs. ago. He also put zerks so they can be greased.
Very happy with them.
--- Robert neal zimmerman
<northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Your free subscription is supported by today's
> sponsor:
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
> Ben & Jerry's® or Häagen-Dazs®?
> Take our Nationwide Ice Cream Survey today! Receive
> a FREE* $100
> Restaurant Gift Card of your choice or $100 worth of
> Ben &
> Jerry's® or Häagen-Dazs® ice cream for
> participating!
> caadVYQb7B6Msa/Ice
> Cream Research Survey
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> what does one do about worn out door hinges. Is
> there somebody that
> sells new hinges or a way to rebuild them, like
> rebuild kits?
> neal zimmerman, eugene oregon
>
> --
> http://www.fastmail.fm - Or how I learned to stop
> worrying and
> love email again
>
> Your free subscription is supported by today's
> sponsor:
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
> Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy!
> No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax!
> Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour!
>
caadVJ0b7B6Msf/911PaydayAdvance
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person -- directly to that person. I.e.,
> send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
> as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
> practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
> volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
> Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>
>
>
George
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 13:28:52 -0500
From: "Gary" <wedge65@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cars for sale
All three of the cars I had for sale are sold. Thanks, Gary Bradshaw
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 11:36:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: george smith <bt6t4@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlights and bulbs
Thank s Tom! I appreciate the time you took. Looks
like good reading.
--- Tom Duross <tduross1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Your free subscription is supported by today's
> sponsor:
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>
> Well, everything you said about Daniel Stern is true
> and then some.
> I emailed him this morning assuming he would get it
> Tuesday.
> I asked about headlamp and LED conversions.
> Well, I got back an 8 page dissertation with more
> information, thought and
> eloquence than I've seen in a very long time.
> This guy is without a doubt, the most informed
> gentleman on vehicle lighting
> I think I've ever seen.
> If anyone wants a copy of the email, b/c me at
> 6t4belvedere@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> He took Ehrenberg's article apart and put it back
> together correctly and
> told me why.
> Gary, I'm glad he's on our Vendor page, he really
> deserves it.
> He's got a beautiful 62 lancer btw, he sent me a few
> pictures.
>
> Tom Duross
> Happy Labor Day everyone!
> Please keep the victims of Katrina in your thoughts
> and prayers.
> Go Red Sox
> that's it. :-P
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan McCormack" <mcwheels@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 11:38 AM
> Subject: RE: Headlights and bulbs
>
>
> Schuyler Wrobel wrote:
> >
> > I've been using 1157's in my tail/brake lights for
> a long time, matter
> > of fact I think thats what was there when I
> > got the car back in 88. the only problem I can see
> is the center of my
> > tail light lens is starting to melt, when viewed
> from the inside. I got
> > some spare lenses at the spring fling swap-meet a
> couple of years back
> > and noticed that they were almost completely
> melted through? so I
> > drilled those out and put blue dots in 'em. That's
> what's on my wagon
> > now, so far so good.
>
>
> > > The tail/stop/turn/backup/license plate/etc. are
> proving to be much
> > > more of a challenge though. My car (cah) has
> 1034's and 1073's for
> > > the most part (paht) and some vendors are
> suggesting 1156 and 1157's
> > > as replacements. Anyone know about this?
> Anybody? Buehler?
>
> I too have been using 1157's for years in my old
> Mopars and never had a
> problem. They are a brighter replacement for the
> 1034's. (Actually I
> didn't know you could even get 1034's anymore) I
> have had a problem with
> burning courtesy light and dome light lenses however
> by using the wrong
> bulbs.
>
> Dan, Hell hath no Fury, But I do!
>
> Your free subscription is supported by today's
> sponsor:
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
> Erase wrinkles without painful injections with
> Nexiderm SP.
> Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles
> by 68% Click
> here to get your 30-day free supply.
>
caadVJYb7B6Msf/Nexiderm
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person -- directly to that person. I.e.,
> send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
> as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
> practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
> volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
> Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>
>
>
>
>
George
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 11:45:21 -0700
From: <kaldad1@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: saggy doors
i have found door pin and bushing rebuild kits in the help section at my
local parts store, a car quest store. they worked just well on my 64
valiant. i think they cost me 10.00 a kit, which does both doors.
john
64 valiant vert
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 12:39:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: george smith <bt6t4@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vendor
George
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 12:40:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: george smith <bt6t4@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vendor II
I'm looking for a vendor for the thin foam gasket
between the taillight valance and body for my Polara.
Any ideas,comments,suggestions?
Thanks,
George
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 16:04:51 EDT
From: HootowlKY@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Dwell Angle
hiya , i always was told set dwell then set timing , it may not make a
difference .
i do know you can set dwell by just turning engine with starter , if dual
points dog off one set with little paper between points then set other set.
hope ya good luck. larry,, 64 sport fury
--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 16:06:22 EDT
From: HootowlKY@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: valve mystery
ha ha ha, whew , thats engineering wow , thanks
larry
--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2005 15:35:03 -0500
From: Jimmy Peavy <peaver63@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Vendor II
I've used the same stuff, cut from sheets of packing.
It takes alot of time, but you can make them, if you have the material..
Punch the holes first, then cut the ID's and the OD's.
Jimmy
george smith wrote:
>I'm looking for a vendor for the thin foam gasket
>between the taillight valance and body for my Polara.
>Any ideas,comments,suggestions?
>Thanks,
>
>George
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 14:08:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Futrell <gary-futrell@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rear axle housing stud
I remember this being brought up before, but I can't
find the e-mail. I need one of the studs that mount on
the 8 3/4 rear end housing where you attach the
pumpkin. Does anyone know where you can kind one,
NAPA, etc. ? My experience with the local Dodge parts
dealer hasn't been very good lately. The last time I
visited and asked if they had any argent silver paint
for Chrysler rallye wheels, they asked
" What's a Rallye wheel ? ".
So I doubt if they know what a 8 3/4 rear axle is.
Gary
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 15:23:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: tom hecht <baddd65@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 383 intake not sealing
i use a paper gasket on both sides of the valley pan.
actually. i stick one on the head (matched) and i stick one
on the intake, if i pull the intake, the gasket comes with
it.
judging by your question, i assume you are just using the steel
gasket, i have seen that work, but have never tried it.
tom
"Ben Jr. Morgan" <polara_hotrods@xxxxxxx> wrote:
I got a good question here. Am I supposed to be using sealant between the
valley pan, head, and intake manifold? It just doesn't seal, even with a new
valley pan. So either I understood something wrong because I didn't I was
supposed to, but the damn thing just leaks vacuum like crazy, and when I
take it off, you can tell it isn't sealing. So otherwise, my heads have been
milled down too far, or my intake is warped.Get more from the Web. FREE MSN
Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP.
Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
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the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 18:12:39 EDT
From: Dodger7998@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rear axle housing stud
you should be able to go to a hardware store and get a bolt to replace it
untill you get by a junk yard to nab one,,,,,,,,this will work fine
permanently
or just as a temp. repair
dodger
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 15:50:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Futrell <gary-futrell@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear axle housing stud
I have a few more 8 3/4's around I could rob one from.
I just didn't want to rob Peter to pay Paul. I suppose
I could always spot weld a Grade 8 bolt in there. I
just thought there might be some sources for a new
stud. I may check R/T Specialities in St. Louis next
weekend.
Gary
>
> you should be able to go to a hardware store and get
> a bolt to replace it
> untill you get by a junk yard to nab one,,,,,,,,this
> will work fine permanently
> or just as a temp. repair
>
>
> dodger
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 18:46:29 EDT
From: Joeydahook9@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: HP figures
Don - recalling the Mopar Muscle where Steve Dulsich (sp) did the
compression test on a 440 dynoing it from 8 to one up through 12 to one, 1
point was
found to be worth 20 hp. This would put the street hemi in line with your
findings at about 460 hp. Another member wrote that a early dyno test
found the
stock hemi at just over 440 hp. Taking the different dyno's into
consideration, they may have been slightly overrated, but not as much as I
thought. Joe
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 16:19:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dennis <djohn14296@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: valve mystery
HUH????? But well put?
--- Skagdrager@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Neal,
>
> What you experienced was a little known feature
> Mopar built into the
> distributors on some of the later slant 6's.
> When the compression in any one cylinder drops below
> 25psi, it triggers the
> dihedral transmogrification, which, in essence,
> de-elevates the distributor
> pattern from it's normal alpha 6 exponents of merely
> beta potential harmonics,
> into prime centrifugal exponents of the stedenzic
> aolean cosmic stanza,
> pentastar five.
> Ma Mopar had all the bases covered back in the 60's.
> And of course when you fixed the valve, it converted
> right back.
> Pretty slick, Huh?
> Paul
Dennis
'04 Ram Hemi
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Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 19:49:52 -0400
From: "Scott & Kathy Powell" <skpowell@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: valve mystery
"dihedral transmogrification"
That's exactly what I was thinking! Only I couldn't remember the exact
terminology. I was getting confused with the
turbine windings and the biphasic fields deep within the coil's core.
Thanks for clearing that up! I would've layed
awake tonight thinking about that. ;-)
Scott
-----Original Message-----
northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
i'll ask again, how could my slant six have run so good with an intake vave
sludged open?
after the Marvel M.Oil treatment shes fine, but I just dont get how
it ran so good before with a valve stuck open.
neal zimmerman, eugene oregon
Neal,
What you experienced was a little known feature Mopar built into the
distributors on some of the later slant 6's.
When the compression in any one cylinder drops below 25psi, it triggers the
dihedral transmogrification, which, in essence, de-elevates the distributor
pattern from it's normal alpha 6 exponents of merely beta potential
harmonics,
into prime centrifugal exponents of the stedenzic aolean cosmic stanza,
pentastar five.
Ma Mopar had all the bases covered back in the 60's.
And of course when you fixed the valve, it converted right back. Pretty
slick, Huh? Paul
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 16:40:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dennis <djohn14296@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: HP figures
I'm sure if I'm wrong in my assumption and
understanding of what made and still does, the Hemi so
good was it huge valves and its ability to inhale and
exhale large volumes of air. The hemispherical heads
also allowed for more complete combustion. They still
scare a lot of Bowties and blue ovals. JM2CW.
Dennis
--- Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I believe the Hp figures were pretty accurate.
> After all this was during the HP race.
> A race hemi I am sure was good for 500 hp but we are
> talking about a street hemi.
Dennis
'04 Ram Hemi
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 23:49:11 +0000
From: ntolerance <ntolerance@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Rear axle housing stud
TRy contacting Cal Anderson at Hub Chrysler Plymouth in West Allis
Wisconsin. 414-327-2400
Here is his email address, but I dontk now if he takes parts requests
throught it. Although, this owuld be a good one to try and send through,
he wouldnt be spending precious phone time.
Cal what at one time one of the largest Mopar Performance / Direct
connection (yepp that long ago) dealers in the states. Cal will know
what you are looking for and where to get it. If you need some oddball
Chrysler part, and need a GOOD chrysler parts guy, he is the one to
call. He was parts manager long before I was in High School.
BE SURE TO ASK FOR CAL.
Cal used to attend local swap meets selling NOS parts LONG before anyone
else. Say like 1989? He used to have NOS parts in a display case in his
parts department.
Perhaps if you have had one stud fail, a complete replacement set would
be warranted. Plus, making a parts guy work for one bolt isnt cool. :)
Doc.
Gary Futrell wrote:
>
> I remember this being brought up before, but I can't
> find the e-mail. I need one of the studs that mount on
> the 8 3/4 rear end housing where you attach the
> pumpkin. Does anyone know where you can kind one,
> NAPA, etc. ? My experience with the local Dodge parts
> dealer hasn't been very good lately. The last time I
> visited and asked if they had any argent silver paint
> for Chrysler rallye wheels, they asked
> " What's a Rallye wheel ? ".
> So I doubt if they know what a 8 3/4 rear axle is.
>
>
> Gary
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 09:53:38 +1000
From: "George Laurie" <georgelaurie@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Vendor II
George, I think all in all you may be best to make your own as I do not know
who might make them, regards George.
----- Original Message -----
From: "george smith" <bt6t4@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 5:40 AM
Subject: Vendor II
> I'm looking for a vendor for the thin foam gasket
> between the taillight valance and body for my Polara.
> Any ideas,comments,suggestions?
> Thanks,
>
> George
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
------------------------------
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
End of 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx digest, issue 2733
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
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