Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and prices

[Doug Daniel <dougdaniel50@xxxxxxxxx>]

yes it will   once get get printer ink it will be better thank you,,,

--- On Sat, 12/19/09, Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and prices
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 2:21 PM
> 
> Hi Doug,  sorry....I dont' really know. I've never
> done a C body, just the A and B bodies.  I did find
> this post though, maybe it will help.
> 
> Hi! My name is Barry Richard and I'm a member of the
> Mid-South Mopars in Memphis, TN. I recently ran across your
> web site and was reading the various articles on brakes and
> engine swaps when I ran across some incorrect data. Since
> I'm currently building a 65 Sport Fury convertible and just
> put power discs on it, I thought I'd share some things I
> found out.
> The 65 C-bodies first offered disc brakes, not 1966's.
> These were the 4-piston Lockeed, non-floating brakes, like
> Corvettes. 1969-1972 were single-piston floating caliper
> brakes and used both the one piece and two piece rotors.
> Most of the ones I've seen were two piece. The HOLLANDER
> manual cites the 1973 stuff as interchangable with the
> proper bearings. However, the 73 C-body rotor hub is
> different and no bearing we've been able to find will adapt
> the 73 rotor to a 69-72 spindle or vice versa. The 73
> spindle and rotor will work with the existing C-body drum
> ball-joints and the 69-73 brackets and caliper. The 73
> spindle/rotor combo allows you to find junkyard rotrs off
> D-100 pickups up thru 78. 69-72 rotor/spindle combo is just
> that. NAPA wanted $180 for a new 69-72 rotor (each).
> Theredore, my recomendation for 65-73 C-body folks is a 73
> model year C-body disc brake setup. I also recommend the
> disc brake master cylinder. Most C-bodies had 11x 2 1/2-inch
> rear brakes and these just need rebuilt. HOLLANDER calls out
> late 72, 1973 disc brake spindles, but this interprets to
> 1973 model year. If you want power, you can use the 65-73
> booster. Of note is the fact that my 65 Fury had non-power
> brakes with a 4-speed. The centerhole on the pedal assembly
> was too small for the boot on the power booster as-is. I had
> to enlrge it to allow the booster boot to come thru the
> firewall. I used a 1980 disc/drum 4-way safety valve from a
> Mirada and plumbed the rest. Everything in the rear is 65
> Fury.
> 
> Hope some of your members can find this useful.
> 
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Daniel" <dougdaniel50@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 2:02 PM
> Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with
> part numbers and prices
> 
> 
> will all  this work on a C body ? 65 dodge monaco
> 
> --- On Sat, 12/19/09, Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> 
> > From: Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read
> with part numbers and prices
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 11:18 AM
> > 
> > I'm with Steve on this one. OEM is the best way to
> > go. I've done at least 5 brake swaps from front drums
> > to disks on Mopars in the past few years. Mostly A
> bodies,
> > and 1 B body. I like the slider types with 10.87"
> > rotors. I usually just buy parts (master cylinder,
> hoses,
> > calipers for a 73 Dart). All were manual drum/disk.
> > 
> > On early A bodies, you just need to bring over the
> UCAs
> > with the spindles/rotors/bearings/calipers. The early
> > A drum UCA uses a small BJ, the later UCAs (73+) use
> the
> > large pattern BJ.
> > I've used the A body spindle AND I've used the F/J/M
> > spindles (diplomat or 5th Ave). I noticed
> > virtully NO difference in the ride or performance
> with
> > either spindle. I have also run the calipers in the
> > front and the calipers behind the spindles, again, no
> > difference. Just the brake line routing is
> > different.....same hose. Moving the
> > calipers to the back can buy you more room for an
> > aftermarket sway bar. I like to run Addco 1 1/8"
> bars.
> > cheeeeep and super solid. The early and later B
> bodies
> > use the heavier BJ, so no UCA swap is required.
> > 
> > Any swap can be done badly. I've got a 65 Coronet
> > rolling chassis. The previous owner swapped it over
> to
> > disks, while complete "rebuilding" the front
> > end. I just looked quickly, but someone did
> > a crap job on the swap. The rotors are cut too thin,
> and
> > have re-rusted. 1 stud is loose in 1 rotor. I
> > removed the dust caps, and the spindle nut didn't have
> a
> > retainer ORa cotter pin!.....that nut could just walk
> right
> > off, and there goes the wheel! The whole job is
> > suspect. Its amazing how much of a F-up some people's
> > work is.
> > 
> > My parts usage on a typical swap;
> > 
> > At the parts counter, I will tell them the vehicle is
> a
> > 1973 Dodge Dart for: Rotors/bearings/hoses and master
> > cylinder. Note: You need to make sure you have the
> > proper drum/disk pushrod.
> > For the calipers, I have used: 73 Dart
> > (4067-4068) $37 plus $60 core at Rock
> > Auto! or 78 Aspen (4103-4104)
> > $22 plus $30 core at Rock Auto. CAREFUL HERE; the
> > difference between the two different part number is
> the
> > piston bore. the 73 Dart uses a 2.6" bore, the later
> > Aspen/diplomat/5th ave uses a 2.75"
> > bore. The 2.75" bore calipers are; more
> > plentiful, cheaper, and give more stopping
> > power. The proportioning valves are
> > available new as repops for ~ $90. worth buying new
> > here or OR use a 73 Dart . The prop. body style
> > changed from a brass one, to a cast iron one in 1975
> on the
> > darts. The later F/J/Ms used the cast iron valves
> > too. It really depends on the look you want.
> > 
> > Once I got a set of R/L calipers for a 73 Dart. I had
> > everything put together, and the car pulled to the
> right
> > when braking. I rechecked EVERYTHING....still
> > pulled. I eventually found I was sent one 2.6" bore
> > and one 2.75" bore caliper!!!!
> > 
> > 
> > For more info on prop valves, go to the MP brakes
> website
> > and read up. Its actually a combination valve.
> > 
> > 
> > Mike
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 11:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read
> with
> > part numbers and prices
> > 
> > 
> > >
> > >
> > > Steve,
> > >
> > > I hear ya on this part! Here's a link to my 64
> Polara
> > convertible right after I did the swap on it in
> August.
> > > http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/21824735
> > > The pics there show exactly what happens when you
> use
> > the cheapo Advance Auto brake holddown hardware. I
> replaced
> > it all with TWO sets of NAPA parts. No more climbing
> > calipers...
> > >
> > > Mark
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven
> Charette"
> > <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 6:48:35 PM GMT
> -05:00
> > US/Canada Eastern
> > > Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long
> read
> > with part numbers and prices
> > >
> > >
> > > "One note from personal experience - get good
> quality
> > (read that Made in USA)
> > > caliper hold-down hardware. Only a couple bucks
> more
> > than imported stuff
> > > that I have had problems with in the past -
> consider
> > the prospect of the
> > > caliper jumping up out of the bracket over bumps.
> Not
> > cool. "
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest
> to
> > only one person -- directly to that person.
> > I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as
> well
> > as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient,
> > not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice
> will
> > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail
> and
> > fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> > >
> > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
> Guidelines:
> > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > >
> > >
> > 
> > 
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one
> > person -- directly to that person. I.e., send
> > parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as
> other
> > personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
> to the
> > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your
> > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
> the
> > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> > 
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
> 
>