RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and price
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RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and prices



ollie is right but i am not good following i just get out and go and like knowing i can stop 

--- On Sat, 12/19/09, Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and prices
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 2:16 PM
> 
> Doug,
>     Rick Ehrenberg's article
> (http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html)
> states that there
> are a few '72 and '73 C-Bodies with parts that should fit
> your '65.  Check
> out the article above and start your search :)
> 
>     Ollie made a good point though, cars
> stopped just fine for decades
> with properly maintained drum brakes.  You simply need
> to increase your
> following distance, as many cars you follow can stop faster
> and more times
> without fading than you can.
> 
> SC 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Daniel [mailto:dougdaniel50@xxxxxxxxx]
> 
> Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 2:02 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with
> part numbers and
> prices
> 
> will all  this work on a C body ? 65 dodge monaco 
> 
> --- On Sat, 12/19/09, Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz
> <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> 
> > From: Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read
> with part 
> > numbers and prices
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 11:18 AM
> > 
> > I'm with Steve on this one. OEM is the best way to
> go.  I've done at 
> > least 5 brake swaps from front drums to disks on
> Mopars in the past 
> > few years. Mostly A bodies, and 1 B body.  I like the
> slider types 
> > with 10.87"
> > rotors. I usually just buy parts (master cylinder,
> hoses, calipers for 
> > a 73 Dart). All were manual drum/disk.
> > 
> > On early A bodies, you just need to bring over the
> UCAs with the 
> > spindles/rotors/bearings/calipers.  The early A drum
> UCA uses a small 
> > BJ, the later UCAs (73+) use the large pattern BJ.
> > I've used the A body spindle AND I've used the F/J/M
> spindles  
> > (diplomat  or 5th Ave).  I noticed virtully NO
> difference in the ride 
> > or performance with either spindle.  I have also run
> the calipers in 
> > the front and the calipers behind the spindles, again,
> no difference.  
> > Just the brake line routing is different.....same
> hose.   Moving the 
> > calipers to the back can buy you more room for an
> aftermarket sway 
> > bar.  I like to run Addco 1 1/8" bars.
> > cheeeeep and super solid.  The early and later B
> bodies use the 
> > heavier BJ, so no UCA swap is required.
> > 
> > Any swap can be done badly.  I've got a 65 Coronet
> rolling chassis.  
> > The previous owner swapped it over to disks, while
> complete 
> > "rebuilding" the front end.   I just looked
> quickly, but someone did a 
> > crap job on the swap. The rotors are cut too thin, and
> have re-rusted.  
> > 1 stud is loose in 1 rotor.  I removed the dust caps,
> and the spindle 
> > nut didn't have a retainer ORa cotter pin!.....that
> nut could just 
> > walk right off, and there goes the wheel!  The whole
> job is suspect.  
> > Its amazing how much of a F-up some people's work is.
> > 
> > My parts usage on a typical swap;
> > 
> > At the parts counter, I will tell them the vehicle is
> a
> > 1973 Dodge Dart for: Rotors/bearings/hoses and master
> cylinder.  Note: 
> > You need to make sure you have the proper drum/disk
> pushrod.
> > For the calipers, I have used:  73 Dart
> > (4067-4068)  $37 plus $60 core at Rock
> Auto!   or  78 Aspen 
> > (4103-4104)
> > $22 plus $30 core at Rock Auto. CAREFUL HERE;  the
> difference between 
> > the two different part number is the piston bore. 
> the 73 Dart uses a 
> > 2.6" bore, the later Aspen/diplomat/5th ave uses a
> 2.75"
> > bore.   The 2.75" bore calipers are; more
> plentiful, cheaper, and give 
> > more stopping power.   The proportioning valves are
> available new as 
> > repops for ~ $90.  worth buying new here or OR use a
> 73 Dart .  The 
> > prop. body style changed from a brass one, to a cast
> iron one in 1975 
> > on the darts.  The later F/J/Ms used the cast iron
> valves too.    It 
> > really depends on the look you want.
> > 
> > Once I got a set of R/L calipers for a 73 Dart.  I
> had everything put 
> > together, and the car pulled to the right when
> braking.  I rechecked 
> > EVERYTHING....still pulled.  I eventually found I was
> sent one 2.6" 
> > bore and one 2.75" bore caliper!!!!
> > 
> > 
> > For more info on prop valves, go to the MP brakes
> website and read up.  
> > Its actually a combination valve.
> > 
> > 
> > Mike
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 11:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read
> with part 
> > numbers and prices
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Steve,
> > > 
> > > I hear ya on this part! Here's a link to my 64
> Polara
> > convertible right after I did the swap on it in
> August.
> > > http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/21824735
> > > The pics there show exactly what happens when you
> use
> > the cheapo Advance Auto brake holddown hardware. I
> replaced it all 
> > with TWO sets of NAPA parts. No more climbing
> calipers...
> > > 
> > > Mark
> > > 
> > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven
> Charette"
> > <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 6:48:35 PM GMT
> -05:00
> > US/Canada Eastern
> > > Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long
> read
> > with part numbers and prices
> > > 
> > > 
> > > "One note from personal experience - get good
> quality
> > (read that Made in USA)
> > > caliper hold-down hardware. Only a couple bucks
> more
> > than imported stuff
> > > that I have had problems with in the past -
> consider
> > the prospect of the
> > > caliper jumping up out of the bracket over bumps.
> Not
> > cool. "
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ----
> > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest
> to
> > only one person --  directly to that person. I.e.,
> send parts/car 
> > transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only 
> > to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public
> address. This 
> > practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
> volume of mail 
> > and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. 
> Thanks!
> > > 
> > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
> Guidelines:
> > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person -- 
> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and 
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only
> to the intended 
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
> practice will 
> > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail
> and fine tune 
> > the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> > 
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> 
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
>       
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
> 





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