ollie is right but i am not good following i just get out and go and like knowing i can stop --- On Sat, 12/19/09, Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > From: Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and prices > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 2:16 PM > > Doug, > Rick Ehrenberg's article > (http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html) > states that there > are a few '72 and '73 C-Bodies with parts that should fit > your '65. Check > out the article above and start your search :) > > Ollie made a good point though, cars > stopped just fine for decades > with properly maintained drum brakes. You simply need > to increase your > following distance, as many cars you follow can stop faster > and more times > without fading than you can. > > SC > > -----Original Message----- > From: Doug Daniel [mailto:dougdaniel50@xxxxxxxxx] > > Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 2:02 PM > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with > part numbers and > prices > > will all this work on a C body ? 65 dodge monaco > > --- On Sat, 12/19/09, Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz > <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > wrote: > > > From: Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read > with part > > numbers and prices > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > > Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 11:18 AM > > > > I'm with Steve on this one. OEM is the best way to > go. I've done at > > least 5 brake swaps from front drums to disks on > Mopars in the past > > few years. Mostly A bodies, and 1 B body. I like the > slider types > > with 10.87" > > rotors. I usually just buy parts (master cylinder, > hoses, calipers for > > a 73 Dart). All were manual drum/disk. > > > > On early A bodies, you just need to bring over the > UCAs with the > > spindles/rotors/bearings/calipers. The early A drum > UCA uses a small > > BJ, the later UCAs (73+) use the large pattern BJ. > > I've used the A body spindle AND I've used the F/J/M > spindles > > (diplomat or 5th Ave). I noticed virtully NO > difference in the ride > > or performance with either spindle. I have also run > the calipers in > > the front and the calipers behind the spindles, again, > no difference. > > Just the brake line routing is different.....same > hose. Moving the > > calipers to the back can buy you more room for an > aftermarket sway > > bar. I like to run Addco 1 1/8" bars. > > cheeeeep and super solid. The early and later B > bodies use the > > heavier BJ, so no UCA swap is required. > > > > Any swap can be done badly. I've got a 65 Coronet > rolling chassis. > > The previous owner swapped it over to disks, while > complete > > "rebuilding" the front end. I just looked > quickly, but someone did a > > crap job on the swap. The rotors are cut too thin, and > have re-rusted. > > 1 stud is loose in 1 rotor. I removed the dust caps, > and the spindle > > nut didn't have a retainer ORa cotter pin!.....that > nut could just > > walk right off, and there goes the wheel! The whole > job is suspect. > > Its amazing how much of a F-up some people's work is. > > > > My parts usage on a typical swap; > > > > At the parts counter, I will tell them the vehicle is > a > > 1973 Dodge Dart for: Rotors/bearings/hoses and master > cylinder. Note: > > You need to make sure you have the proper drum/disk > pushrod. > > For the calipers, I have used: 73 Dart > > (4067-4068) $37 plus $60 core at Rock > Auto! or 78 Aspen > > (4103-4104) > > $22 plus $30 core at Rock Auto. CAREFUL HERE; the > difference between > > the two different part number is the piston bore. > the 73 Dart uses a > > 2.6" bore, the later Aspen/diplomat/5th ave uses a > 2.75" > > bore. The 2.75" bore calipers are; more > plentiful, cheaper, and give > > more stopping power. The proportioning valves are > available new as > > repops for ~ $90. worth buying new here or OR use a > 73 Dart . The > > prop. body style changed from a brass one, to a cast > iron one in 1975 > > on the darts. The later F/J/Ms used the cast iron > valves too. It > > really depends on the look you want. > > > > Once I got a set of R/L calipers for a 73 Dart. I > had everything put > > together, and the car pulled to the right when > braking. I rechecked > > EVERYTHING....still pulled. I eventually found I was > sent one 2.6" > > bore and one 2.75" bore caliper!!!! > > > > > > For more info on prop valves, go to the MP brakes > website and read up. > > Its actually a combination valve. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> > > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 11:01 PM > > Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read > with part > > numbers and prices > > > > > > > > > > > > > Steve, > > > > > > I hear ya on this part! Here's a link to my 64 > Polara > > convertible right after I did the swap on it in > August. > > > http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/21824735 > > > The pics there show exactly what happens when you > use > > the cheapo Advance Auto brake holddown hardware. I > replaced it all > > with TWO sets of NAPA parts. No more climbing > calipers... > > > > > > Mark > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven > Charette" > > <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > > > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 6:48:35 PM GMT > -05:00 > > US/Canada Eastern > > > Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long > read > > with part numbers and prices > > > > > > > > > "One note from personal experience - get good > quality > > (read that Made in USA) > > > caliper hold-down hardware. Only a couple bucks > more > > than imported stuff > > > that I have had problems with in the past - > consider > > the prospect of the > > > caliper jumping up out of the bracket over bumps. > Not > > cool. " > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been > removed] > > > > > > > > > ---- > > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest > to > > only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., > send parts/car > > transactions and negotiations as well as other > personal messages only > > to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public > address. This > > practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total > volume of mail > > and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. > Thanks! > > > > > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion > Guidelines: > > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > > > > > > > > > > > ---- > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one person -- > > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car > transactions and > > negotiations as well as other personal messages only > to the intended > > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This > practice will > > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail > and fine tune > > the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > > > > > > > > > > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one > person -- directly to that person. I.e., send > parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other > personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > > >