Re: replacing gaskets: engine oil pan and Torquflite

[Gary <mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Best thing is to use 3M yellow.  Put it on the pan only.  Just a thin coat.  None on the top.  This makes it easier to remove and clean.  The trans is usually nice and flat and does not need a coat of 3m on it.  
---- Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> 
> 
> Get a second gasket for the top.  Also it is a good idea to put a thin coat
> of RTV on both sides of both gaskets and torque them down.  People get
> carried away with beads of RTV that squeeze into the engine and clog up the
> oil pickup.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.  The fluid is actually up into the tube, and it is correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 2.  The cork/rubber is a big improvement and I would use the same technic
> with RTV as the engine oil pan.
> 
> 
> 
> 3.  Their is about eight more quarts in the converter if you want to drain
> it.  If your fluid is burnt I would recommend changing it also.  If not just
> what is in the pan is OK but would recommend cleaning the screen or
> replacing the filter what ever your application is.  If you have not drained
> the converter starting the engine & adding fluid is no problem.  Just
> remember check the fluid in newtral, not park.  The precaution of
> overfilling initially is when starting with a empty converter and putting
> more than five or six quarts and then starting the engine.  You will not
> have any problems with draining just the pan!
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Let us know how the disc conversion worked out also!!
> 
> 
> 
>           
> 
>  Herb 
> 
>  
> 
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
> 
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
> 
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 
> 1970 Challenger RT 440 - 4 Sale
> 
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9
> 
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
> 
> St. Louis, MO.
> 
>  
> 
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
> 
>   
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -------Original Message-------
> 
>  
> 
> From: Butch Edison
> 
> Date: 1/3/2010 1:04:29 PM
> 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> 
> Subject: replacing gaskets: engine oil pan and Torquflite
> 
>  
> 
> Welcome to the new year everyone. My son and I spent a good deal of the
> 
> holidays rebuilding the front end of one of my 64 Sport Furys and converting
> 
> the drum brakes to disc. Both the oil pan and transmission pan were leaking,
> 
> so dropped them both to re-seal. Some questions I have, would appreciate
> 
> your help:
> 
>  
> 
> Engine Oil pan: I'd pre-purchased a rubber and steel oil pan gasket. To my
> 
> surprise, when I dropped the oil pan, there is a windage tray on the motor.
> 
> This wasn't done in 1964 for 383 engines from the factory. I'm assuming
> 
> whoever rebuilt the engine put it in for a reason, so will stick with it, so
> 
> do I need another gasket to go on top of the windage tray? You may have
> 
> other, better ideas. Sealant? If so, what type and any cautions about use
> 
> would be appreciated. I flattened out all the dimples around the bolt holes
> 
> on the pan, so am pretty much good to go there.
> 
>  
> 
> Transmission pan: The car has the original ball & trunnion set up, A727
> 
> transmission.
> 
> 1. I can see that someone put in a chrome dipstick tube, which prompts my
> 
> first question. With the pan off, I can see that the dipstick only protrudes
> 
> into the oil sump about 3/8". If you have a similar setup, do you recall if
> 
> this is correct? Seems weird to me that the markings for low-high on the
> 
> dipstick are actually a ways up the dipstick into the tube.
> 
> 2. The only gasket I could get through my local parts house is a cork and
> 
> rubber gasket. I've not changed a gasket in 40 years, but hated the cork
> 
> ones we used at that time. Lot of mumbo jumbo then about soaking the
> 
> gaskets, using gasket sealer, catching a full moon, doing a secret
> 
> handshake, etc. How do you recommend sealing up the transmission pan.
> 
> 3. I got about 4 1/2 quarts of tf fluid when I dropped the pan. That seems
> 
> like a lot, which is why I questioned the length of the dip stick. Assuming
> 
> I put in the amount I got out, should I put in 3 quarts before starting the
> 
> engine, run it for a minute, then add another quart with the engine off,
> 
> test from there? I'd seen some cautions previously about adding too much
> 
> initially and don't want that, but also don't want to starve the
> 
> transmission.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks all. /Butch/ Ferndale, WA
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ----
> 
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>  
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>  
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 
> 
> 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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