Re: Understanding cooling systems

["MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Cooling is one of the most debated issues about Mopars. Not many mention the 
importance of getting that frontal incomeing air to go thriugh the radiator. 
such as the bumper dam, radiator to hood seals ,etc. One often overlooked 
things that I found: Even after a  block "cleaning" prior to an overhaul , 
after my engine had run several miles, I opened the block drain petcocks and 
the bottom of the water jackets had so muck packed rust and creud  that the 
petcocks were plugged!  Backflushing would not loosen it up. I would think 
that would give less area for the water to diissapate heat. Just a 
thought.........................MO
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Butch Edison" <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 1:44 PM
Subject: Understanding cooling systems









I have two 1964 Plymouth Sport Furys. One has a 383, the other a 440. The 
383 runs hot, the 440 does not. Both cars appear to have the correct 
radiator, although that's a guess on my part. Neither has a fan shroud, nor 
the original viscous fan setup. The 383 does not have an air dam between the 
bumper and the radiator (which I'm correcting this weekend), the 440 does 
have an air dam. The 383 (runs hot) has an electrical fan on it. When I run 
the electrical fan, the car runs cooler, but not down to normal. I just had 
the 383 (runs hot) back flushed at a radiator shop. They got some crud, not 
a lot.



I'm trying to take a logical approach to correcting whatever is wrong with 
the 383 without using an electrical fan. It runs cooler without a 
thermostat. Most of the time it runs just a little above normal without the 
thermostat. With a thermostat, it runs close to the hot indicator, even 
though temps here are in the 40s right now. So, what's happening? Does it 
run cooler without the thermostat because more coolant is going through the 
system? If so, then I can assume that a higher flow water pump could help. I 
know from this forum that a radiator has to flow at a certain rate to work 
most efficiently, so you can push coolant through too fast for it to cool, 
but if my thinking is correct, a higher output water pump could help me out.



I'd appreciate your thinking on this, as I've seen so many threads on the 
forum dealing with this subject.



Thanks/Butch/Ferndale, WA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.