Re: Headers and....... Well, just headers this time around

[Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Steve, THANK YOU for that. I'll save your note as I'm looking at changing out some cheap headers on my 64 Sport Fury 383 very soon and will check out the Schumacher headers. I'll investigate their exhaust systems as well. If you have any thoughts on that, I'd sure appreciate them. From what you said, my factory "whah whaw" starter will work with these headers which is I want. I don't know what "the longer 2hp" means. 



Does Schumacher make headers for the 426 max wedge that you can vouch for as well ? Dan Dvorak is putting a numbers correct 1964 m/w for me. It will be a 9.5/1 compression with hydraulics, as it will be a street machine, with A727 floor shift and power steering. 



Thanks again Steve. Great note. 

/Butch/Ferndale, WA 




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steven Charette" <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx 
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 7:30:27 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: RE: Headers and.......  Well, just headers this time around 


I'll start with disclosure - I work closely with Schumacher but can give 
first-hand facts as opposed to opinion. 

There are differences in the relationships of the engine and chassis from 
'62-'65 and '66-'72.  A few header manufacturers realize the difference and 
have designed the headers accordingly, and the remainder simply don't 
consider the '65 and earlier offerings.  Some headers listed as '66-later 
will indeed fit the '62-'65 cars, so the best source of information will be 
the folks on this list. 

I can vouch for the fit of the Schumacher headers on the '62-'65 cars as I 
have had my hand in a few installations.  The headers are a tri-y design, 
with 1 5/8" primary into 2" y's, then a 2 1/2" collector.  Fitment is 
excellent, with ample room to change plugs and not burn wires (straight or 
angle plugs) and the ability to change the starter without removing the 
headers (stock length starter or mini, not the longer 2hp variety).  No 
clearance issues with power steering, brakes, A/C, etc.  The tubes are 14 
gauge steel and are oriented so that you can use a socket to torque the 3/8" 
laser-cut header flange to the head to ensure good sealing.  The thicker 
tubing also helps damp the "ticky-tick" sound of cheap headers. Retention of 
the studs is recommended in lieu of header bolts, and simplifies 
installation.  Basically you jack the motor up and drop 'em in. 

An important note is that these headers are designed for automatic 
transmission use - they must be modified for stick use.  Also bear in mind 
that many aftermarket heads position the exhaust ports differently which can 
influence clearance and fit.  One other consideration is that these 
mass-produced cars have production tolerances that are exacerbated by being 
beaten up and down the roads for 50 years or the cars have been disassembled 
and reassembled.  A header that fits perfectly on one car and engine 
combination may not fit another identical model car and engine combination 
without modification or adjustment. 

The Schumacher header was designed primarily for street use, or as an 
upgrade to HP manifolds.  Many people snub their nose at the 1 5/8" tube, 
but testing has proven that the tube size is actually more efficient than a 
2" tube well into the 12 second range.  Low end torque and cold driveability 
are maintained which cannot be said of larger headers. 

We're often asked "How much horsepower will they make?" which is a tough 
question with a lot of variables.  We have chosen E.T. as a rough guideline 
- once a combination is much below 12 seconds in performance (particularly 
at higher RPM) suffers.  Engine displacement has a lot to do with this, 
along with many other factors. 

Our testing results can be seen at www.engine-swaps.com by scrolling to the 
bottom of the page and clicking the "Smokin' Barracuda" link.  I have also 
done some flow study and can evaluate the suitability of the headers for 
specific combinations if you contact me off-list. 

Bottom line:  Expect leaks and fitment problems with economy headers 
(Blackjack, etc.)  Expect to pay in excess of $400 for a decent header. 
Large diameter tubes are great for high horsepower drag cars but fit, 
driveability, serviceability, and ground clearance suffer. 

For ease of installation and maintenance I highly recommend the Schumacher 
headers for street driven applications.  For higher-horsepower applications 
I recommend TTI headers. 

SC 


-----Original Message----- 
From: Gary H. [mailto:spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 10:49 PM 
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx 
Subject: Re: Headers and....... 


I suspect some of the confusion is from the post-1966 bias in parts 
catalogs. Also, the pre-1966 B body use of a K member that moved the motor 
slightly forward compared to the 1966 up B's, which may affect header 
clearance in various header designs. Last I looked one mfg., Hooker I think, 
listed pre-1966 headers, as did Schumacher Creative Services. Others anyone? 


As for springs, remind us what B you have. 

Thanks, 
Gary H.   


-----Original Message----- 

> 
> 
>    Can any one enlighten me on a couple of items? I want to replace 
>the headers and rear springs on my '65 Coronet. The problem is, the 
>applications for both items all say " will fit '66 to '74". I've 
>contacted Jegs, Summit, etc. and they can't tell me anything. Steve at 
>Imperial Services told me he runs the SS springs on the street,has 
>anyone else any comments? Thanks, Merwin 


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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks! 

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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