Steve, THANK YOU for that. I'll save your note as I'm looking at changing
out some cheap headers on my 64 Sport Fury 383 very soon and will check
out the Schumacher headers. I'll investigate their exhaust systems as
well. If you have any thoughts on that, I'd sure appreciate them. From
what you said, my factory "whah whaw" starter will work with these headers
which is I want. I don't know what "the longer 2hp" means.
Does Schumacher make headers for the 426 max wedge that you can vouch for
as well ? Dan Dvorak is putting a numbers correct 1964 m/w for me. It will
be a 9.5/1 compression with hydraulics, as it will be a street machine,
with A727 floor shift and power steering.
Thanks again Steve. Great note.
/Butch/Ferndale, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Charette" <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 7:30:27 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RE: Headers and....... Well, just headers this time around
I'll start with disclosure - I work closely with Schumacher but can give
first-hand facts as opposed to opinion.
There are differences in the relationships of the engine and chassis from
'62-'65 and '66-'72. A few header manufacturers realize the difference
and
have designed the headers accordingly, and the remainder simply don't
consider the '65 and earlier offerings. Some headers listed as '66-later
will indeed fit the '62-'65 cars, so the best source of information will
be
the folks on this list.
I can vouch for the fit of the Schumacher headers on the '62-'65 cars as I
have had my hand in a few installations. The headers are a tri-y design,
with 1 5/8" primary into 2" y's, then a 2 1/2" collector. Fitment is
excellent, with ample room to change plugs and not burn wires (straight or
angle plugs) and the ability to change the starter without removing the
headers (stock length starter or mini, not the longer 2hp variety). No
clearance issues with power steering, brakes, A/C, etc. The tubes are 14
gauge steel and are oriented so that you can use a socket to torque the
3/8"
laser-cut header flange to the head to ensure good sealing. The thicker
tubing also helps damp the "ticky-tick" sound of cheap headers. Retention
of
the studs is recommended in lieu of header bolts, and simplifies
installation. Basically you jack the motor up and drop 'em in.
An important note is that these headers are designed for automatic
transmission use - they must be modified for stick use. Also bear in mind
that many aftermarket heads position the exhaust ports differently which
can
influence clearance and fit. One other consideration is that these
mass-produced cars have production tolerances that are exacerbated by
being
beaten up and down the roads for 50 years or the cars have been
disassembled
and reassembled. A header that fits perfectly on one car and engine
combination may not fit another identical model car and engine combination
without modification or adjustment.
The Schumacher header was designed primarily for street use, or as an
upgrade to HP manifolds. Many people snub their nose at the 1 5/8" tube,
but testing has proven that the tube size is actually more efficient than
a
2" tube well into the 12 second range. Low end torque and cold
driveability
are maintained which cannot be said of larger headers.
We're often asked "How much horsepower will they make?" which is a tough
question with a lot of variables. We have chosen E.T. as a rough
guideline
- once a combination is much below 12 seconds in performance (particularly
at higher RPM) suffers. Engine displacement has a lot to do with this,
along with many other factors.
Our testing results can be seen at www.engine-swaps.com by scrolling to
the
bottom of the page and clicking the "Smokin' Barracuda" link. I have also
done some flow study and can evaluate the suitability of the headers for
specific combinations if you contact me off-list.
Bottom line: Expect leaks and fitment problems with economy headers
(Blackjack, etc.) Expect to pay in excess of $400 for a decent header.
Large diameter tubes are great for high horsepower drag cars but fit,
driveability, serviceability, and ground clearance suffer.
For ease of installation and maintenance I highly recommend the Schumacher
headers for street driven applications. For higher-horsepower
applications
I recommend TTI headers.
SC
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary H. [mailto:spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 10:49 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Headers and.......
I suspect some of the confusion is from the post-1966 bias in parts
catalogs. Also, the pre-1966 B body use of a K member that moved the motor
slightly forward compared to the 1966 up B's, which may affect header
clearance in various header designs. Last I looked one mfg., Hooker I
think,
listed pre-1966 headers, as did Schumacher Creative Services. Others
anyone?
As for springs, remind us what B you have.
Thanks,
Gary H.
-----Original Message-----
Can any one enlighten me on a couple of items? I want to replace
the headers and rear springs on my '65 Coronet. The problem is, the
applications for both items all say " will fit '66 to '74". I've
contacted Jegs, Summit, etc. and they can't tell me anything. Steve at
Imperial Services told me he runs the SS springs on the street,has
anyone else any comments? Thanks, Merwin
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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