Re: 65 Heater Box Help
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Re: 65 Heater Box Help




This is by no means a concourse method and I've yet to test it under pressure but I can't help but think this is gonna work great on my '64 330. I removed the valve from the box, (Brass - 90 degree looking affair), and noticed that in the
90 turn was a valve, hole, sensor, something at one time or another, and
obviously a source of a leak. I removed the remaining guts of whatever this
had been and plugged it from both inside and outside of the tube with a 2-part epoxy putty taking care not to cause an internal obstruction with the compound. Pack the putty into the inside corner with a pencil or some thin probe. Clean up the outer tube with some Brasso and go find a replacement O-Ring at Napa. This part is now ready to re-install using the screw through the plate back into the heat- er box. Mine was stripped out so I went to a larger size to get a good bite and a firm connection to maintain a good o-ring seal. My boudin cable wasn't the best and seeing as how now we have no valve control anyway, I purchased an inline valve that goes in a heater hose and is cable operated; and mounted this almost nipple to nipple with 3" section of heater hose on the inlet tube. From this valve I used a garden variety universal choke cable and ran it as straight and as short as possible to the dash area for good activations. As luck would have it, this arrived just to the left of the ignition key in an unoccupied spot. Using a spare knob/switch bezel behind it, most folks won't even notice it and those that do will assume it's a factory accessory. NAPA sells a valve of this type, (straight through, about 4" long, with the cable slide pins on the side), but it's about $40. with plastic guts. I found a smaller unit in all metal construction from a street rod parts supplier for $17. so some shopping around for this type of setup can be beneficial. I have yet to check for valve cover fitment issues though I doubt it will be a problem. If a problem does arise a simple, formed 90 degree elbow hose will point the valve toward the hood hinge area and the cable is attached to the valve via a screw held clip so a redirect will be easy and may even aid in heater hose routing at the cost of a slightly less efficient cable activation ability.
This solved two problems at once for me and hopefully it can be of some help
to others here as well. Seems as if I remember a similar setup being used from
the factory on some models between like '71 to '76 but I'm not sure of this.

John Hammond


There was a guy that I had Gary add to the vendors page that sells the o-ring and he also rebuilds the valves if you should need it. Let me know if you can't find it and I will dig for it.

-Jason

On 6/22/2010 8:08 AM, Bill wrote:
The heater control valve in my 65 Coronet likes to piss on my foot if
I even get close to the fun side of 3 Grand. I pulled the box when I
did the carpet so I could come up with an alternate or additional
sealing solution...it's the type that the valve slips into the heater
core, and the valve IS the inlet to the heater core (also read $$$) as
opposed to being inline somewhere else.

I was going to create a flat rubber gasket that would go between the
heater control valve flange and the bung in the heater core as an
extra seal, but it doesn't look that will work after looking at it out
of the car. I'll try a square o-ring, but I'd like to do something
else too. Any suggestions?




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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.













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