Both emails are good reading, Butch - thanks. Enjoy your car! Dave --- On Sun, 7/25/10, Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > From: Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> > Subject: Butch's 64 Sport Fury 383.... torqueflite education > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > Date: Sunday, July 25, 2010, 11:47 AM > > Pat Blais is nearly a legend in the Northwest for his > ability to rebuild > Torqueflites. The best I've heard it put is that Pat was > the first one in > this region (back in the sixties) to take a TF apart, > figure it out, and > build them out the way they should be. He's an Ebay seller > as well and is on > our forum's vendor page. I removed my first ever TF, Pat > swapped out a > similar TF with me that he rebuilt, taking mine as a core. > I wanted to stay > with authentic ball & trunnion look of the car, but Pat > was not happy about > that, as he said the 64s had some inherent problems that > were corrected in > 65-66. But he found a way. I think he said the TF I got was > out of a 65 > Imperial or some such, the last car Chrysler put the ball > and trunnion on, > then he beefed up the internals and the shift points a > bit. > > So, I get the transmission, install it, and I'm feeling > pretty darned good > about myself having never done anything like that before. > Lesson learned.... > don't tighten up those Schumacher headers before installing > all the TF > bolts, because there's not quite enough room to slide one > bolt by the header > on the right side. Having paid attention on this > forum and listening to > Pat, I carefully adjusted the Neutral Safety Switch tangs > to the proper > position in Neutral and Park before putting the pan on. I'd > already > pre-loaded the convertor with one quart of oil, put in 5 > more. I left the > transmission cooling return line off the tranny per Pat's > instructions, > started the car for about 20 seconds, draining a quart of > TF fluid off. Then > I buttoned it up, put in 2 more quarts of oil, started the > engine and filled > the tranny the rest of the way. Now I'm feeling > near-brillant, soon to be > humbled again. Keep in mind, this is all with the headers > off, so I'm not > hearing anything coming from the tranny. > > I put the console shift lever in Reverse,,,, no reverse. > Instantly I'm > thinking "I wonder what refunds I can get from the Hot > August Nights > people?", but I fish around with the shifter and find > reverse, almost in the > Park position. Well, not time to worry about it right now, > I've got to get > the car over to the exhaust shop and get the pipes welded > on, so I drive it > out of the garage and into the trailer. Not going to sleep > well tonight > thinking about the Torqueflite. > > I leave the car overnight, the owner of the shop calls, > says the exhaust is > on and "by the way", he noticed that the tranny wasn't > properly adjusted but > he did that, so all the gear shift positions work and are > in their proper > place and the car only starts now in Neutral and Park. > Lesson learned.... > just getting the tangs correctly positioned on the Neutral > Safety Switch is > not the end-all be-all for getting the shift points right. > You still may > have to use the control cable adjustment wheel to fine tune > the shifter. > > The car is still on the rack when I get to the shop, we > check out the > exhaust system,,,, I'm a happy albeit poorer $$$$ guy. He > starts to back the > car off the rack and HOLY CRAP !!!! The tranny is > clattering like crazy! > Again.... I'm like totally deflated. What the H***! > He's much calmer. The > car is on a rack that allows you to "drive" the car, so he > starts it up, > puts it in gear and I listen as best a deaf guy can, feel > along the tranny > till I come to the Park Lock cable. AHAH! That's the > problem area, what's > the problem? When I took the old tranny out, I was careful > to note that that > the park lock cable was in as far as it would go, so was > very diligent about > putting this one all the way back in till it stopped. I > anxiously call Pat > and he says "Hmmm, I gave you a sheet that tells you how to > adjust that > cable Butch. You want it in just far enough to make PARK > engage on a slope > but not so far in that it makes any noise. AND he says, you > should never > assume that Park will hold the car on a hill. It could > fail. (never knew > that). " Whew... we adjusted it, pull it off the rack and a > couple of > minutes later...HUGE puddle of TF fluid under the car! Here > we go again. We > put the car back on the rack and see that it all came out > the filler tube. > The shop owner surmises it was an air bubble that cut loose > and pushed the > TF out. We refilled it and I start putting miles on the > car. > > Well, not many. I get above 40 mph and the damn thing > starts clattering > again. I know what to do now though, so my wife (how thinks > and deals in > micro) helps me adjust the Park Lock pin in 1/8ths, then > 1/16ths, and > finally 1/32nd of an inch using a variety of washers and > shims to accurately > gauge travel movement of the pin. You have to do something > like that because > once you tap the holding bolt loose, unless you have 8 > hands, the pin will > move a little. > > So, I've now put about a hundred miles on the car. It runs > cool, sounds > great, and the Torqueflite feels super. > > I'm sure you have nodded off by now and I surely need a > nap, so this is the > last of my great adventure notes (HOPEFULLY!) > > /Butch/Ferndale, WA > > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one > person -- directly to that person. I.e., send > parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other > personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > > >