Re: Re[2]: Brakes

[William Harrison <bbjt3@xxxxxxxxx>]

Proportioning valve is out of an S10 from the salvage yard as the proportioning valve for the Aspen is not available from any of my parts stores.

I even looked on eBay for one and nada. 

--- On Sun, 9/12/10, Lester Stockhorst <llstockhorst@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Lester Stockhorst <llstockhorst@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re[2]: Brakes
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Sunday, September 12, 2010, 8:53 AM
> 
> You didn't mention porportioning valve.  Did you
> replace it with the one out of the 78?
> 
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********
> 
> On 9/12/2010 at 2:22 AM William Harrison wrote:
> 
> >Bill
> >Got to discussing my problem with a local parts guy and
> we looked up
> >master cylinders and power brake boosters at his store
> for specs.
> >No luck but it set my feeble mind to working and I took
> my master cylinder
> >off and looked at the rod from the booster and noticed
> that the end with
> >the ball that fits in the master cylinder had an
> adjustment.
> >Long story short; the rod projected from the booster 1
> 1/16th and the
> >depression in the master cylinder was 15/16 th's. The
> booster was not
> >letting the master cylinder release all the way.
> >I adjusted the length and will re attach the master
> cylinder, re bleed the
> >lines and try it out today.
> >I am also going to take the 650 Edelbrock off and
> install a 750 Holley
> >that I re built to Don Dulmage's specs.
> >If the brake adjustment doesn't work and carb change
> doesn't work I will
> >try to think of another fix such as a BFH....Getting
> really frustrated...
> >
> >Later
> >Bill
> >
> >--- On Sat, 9/11/10, Bill <hemirr@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> >
> >> From: Bill <hemirr@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> Subject: RE: Brakes
> >> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> >> Date: Saturday, September 11, 2010, 9:24 PM
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Rick Ehrenberg addressed this question recently in
> an issue
> >> of Mopar Action...that was his best guess was
> needed a
> >> shorter rod, the explanation is that if the rod is
> a bit too
> >> long, on release the master cylinder does not
> uncover the
> >> interior port to release the pressure.  Another
> >> possibility I believe he suggested to the
> questioner is if
> >> the drum side (the front reservoir on mopars) of
> the new
> >> master cylinder has a residual pressure valve in
> it and it
> >> was accidently plumbed to the front discs instead
> of the
> >> drums, or if the new master is an all-drum model
> and has
> >> residual pressure valves. 
> >>
> >> Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central
> Indiana...'49
> >> Plymouth 2 door; '62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '64 Dart
> >> convertible; '65 Barracuda \6; '65 Imperial; '68
> Barracuda
> >> FB 340-S; '69 Barracuda FB now 360; '70 Challenger
> now 440;
> >> '72 Cuda '340
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> >> > From: bbjt3@xxxxxxxxx
> >> > Subject: Brakes
> >> > Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 14:25:07 -0700
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Here is a puzzler for all you gear heads...
> >> > I converted my 65 Coronet 2 dr post to front
> disc
> >> brakes.
> >> > I used the spindles from a 78 Aspen.
> >> > I installed the matching booster and master
> cylinder
> >> also.
> >> > Took the car for a shake down run and after
> 1/2 half
> >> block the brakes started dragging.
> >> > Could the rod from the brake pedal bee too
> long and
> >> keeping the booster activated?
> >> > It's as if the calipers are not releasing.
> >> > Calipers are new and the rubber lines are new
> also.
> >> > Has me stumped.
> >> > Any suggestions appreciated.
> >> > Sold my spindles for my drum brakes or I
> would re
> >> install them.
> >> > It's not going to be a daily driver so why
> did I
> >> convert to disc brakes any way. \
> >> >
> >> > I sure would like to drive a few miles this
> year and
> >> it's getting frustrating as hell to fix one
> problem and then
> >> have another pop up.
> >> >
> >> > Later
> >> > Bill Harrison
> >> > 65 Coronet 2 dr post.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > ----
> >> > Please address private mail -- mail of
> interest to
> >> only one person -- directly to that person. I.e.,
> send
> >> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as
> other
> >> personal messages only to the intended recipient,
> not to the
> >> Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your
> >> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine
> tune the
> >> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> >> >
> >> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
> Guidelines:
> >> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> >> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >>     
> >>         
> >>           
> >>  
> >> --
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >>
> >>
> >> ----
> >> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one
> >> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> >> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as
> other
> >> personal messages only to the intended recipient,
> not to the
> >> Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your
> >> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine
> tune the
> >> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >>
> >> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
> Guidelines:
> >> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> >> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>