RE: Brakes

[William Harrison <bbjt3@xxxxxxxxx>]

Bill
I went to my local library to look up the 78 Aspen as my Motor's book goes up to 71.
The Chilton's book does not show a proportioning valve and shows the front chamber of the master cylinder plumbing to the front discs and the rear chamber plumbing to the rear drums.
That is how I ran the lines but it does not make sense to me as the rear chamber is larger than the front.
Should I re-plumb the lines?
Thanks
Bill

--- On Sat, 9/11/10, Bill <hemirr@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Bill <hemirr@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: Brakes
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Saturday, September 11, 2010, 9:24 PM
> 
> 
> 
> Rick Ehrenberg addressed this question recently in an issue
> of Mopar Action...that was his best guess was needed a
> shorter rod, the explanation is that if the rod is a bit too
> long, on release the master cylinder does not uncover the
> interior port to release the pressure.  Another
> possibility I believe he suggested to the questioner is if
> the drum side (the front reservoir on mopars) of the new
> master cylinder has a residual pressure valve in it and it
> was accidently plumbed to the front discs instead of the
> drums, or if the new master is an all-drum model and has
> residual pressure valves.  
> 
> Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana...'49
> Plymouth 2 door; '62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '64 Dart
> convertible; '65 Barracuda \6; '65 Imperial; '68 Barracuda
> FB 340-S; '69 Barracuda FB now 360; '70 Challenger now 440;
> '72 Cuda '340
> 
> 
>  
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > From: bbjt3@xxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Brakes
> > Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 14:25:07 -0700
> > 
> > 
> > Here is a puzzler for all you gear heads...
> > I converted my 65 Coronet 2 dr post to front disc
> brakes.
> > I used the spindles from a 78 Aspen.
> > I installed the matching booster and master cylinder
> also.
> > Took the car for a shake down run and after 1/2 half
> block the brakes started dragging.
> > Could the rod from the brake pedal bee too long and
> keeping the booster activated?
> > It's as if the calipers are not releasing.
> > Calipers are new and the rubber lines are new also.
> > Has me stumped.
> > Any suggestions appreciated.
> > Sold my spindles for my drum brakes or I would re
> install them.
> > It's not going to be a daily driver so why did I
> convert to disc brakes any way. \
> > 
> > I sure would like to drive a few miles this year and
> it's getting frustrating as hell to fix one problem and then
> have another pop up.
> > 
> > Later
> > Bill Harrison
> > 65 Coronet 2 dr post.
> > 
> > 
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> > 
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> > 
> > 
>     
>         
>           
>   
> --
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
>