Re: 440 Change over,, "Advise/Tec help"

You can use a Dvorak one way screen for a windage tray and supposedly pick up 10 or 12 extra. The best part is that if you blow the crank, the one was screen keeps the cranshaft and piston rods from going through the oil pad during a race at the track or any other place. Something might get through the block, but the oil pan, unbroken, will still hold most of the oild. It comes with a crank scraper that has to be hand fitted to your engine and has .010 clearance. I use a Milodon 7 qu. pan but I can only use the little fiter cause the big oil filter is a bitch to get in or out.

Here's a few pics of the Dvorak stuff when I was building my engine. I've got lots mor stuff to say about the subject of what to put in a 440 engine to get the best of of it (but not too cheaply and I think you can get the job done with the same amount of HP and torque and still be running 87 octane gas and you willl have enought tourque to get a big car moving very quickly and keep on going quicker all the time until you take your foot off the gas. You car will be low compression, have a cam that idles faily smothly without giving away how hot the engine actually is and still have big HP and torgue from way down low (2000 rpm) to way up high (7,000). I don't know how the vacuum on the cam is because my car has no power brakes and no power steering so it doesn't matter to me.

I have many pictures and tips you can use or not, I'll send you what I have little. I think you already heard this but I'll tell you again. Don't get in too big a hurry but don't neglect the project by getting tired of it. Sometime family or financial matters keep people from reaching their goals. I know you are pretty determined to get it done right or you wouldn't have bothered to do it in the first place. I already did it to an engine that would work great in your car, providing that you have enough vacuum to work your power stuff. If it doesn't, you can go to the next lower cam and still have a hight HP and torque engine that might be even better for your car. Hughes Engines has exactly what you need. They are on the web. So is Hughes Engineering. Easy to confuse them. The Engines sells all MOPAR engine parts and complete dyno'd engines and Engineering sells all makes of trans and torque convertors for most makes, including MOPARS but the MOPAR trans either is disapper or going way up in price and getting harder to find all the time. Trans-go makes a 1, 2, or 3 kit. No. 1 kit is an RV kit with altered shift points and full auto but you can still control the trans with the buttons if want to like going down a very steep hill and putting the trans in 2nd gear to help slow it down and save the brakes. You are lucky you did'nt have to buy a trans. Then new cables are getting so hard to get, if you can even get them, some places want over 200 dollars each for a speedomoter cable, a shif cable and a park cable. I could have paid 1/3 or less of the price 4 years ago but I waited and got one of the last of each. $529 for three cables that used to be about $150 for all of them. And not teeth in the speedomoter cable. You have to take the teeth out of your old cable and put it in your new cable yourself. If you changed the rear gear ratio it is hard to find a right ratio gear because no one has them anymore. If you live near a guy who has a MOPAR race shop and he carries parts (or not even) he may be able to help you out with some hard to find pieces for your engine and trans. Your car probably not, but he will probably know who does.