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Its just a Max Wedge cross-ram. They are very
cold-blooded but using the chokes helped turn it into a different
machine.
I carry extra tranny fluid, oil, clean rags, hand
soap, etc. You never know what you are going to get into.
Which, to me, is half the fun (unless you have to call a tow
truck).
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 12:31
PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
That just sounds like a complicated setup! I never had anything with dual
quads...
I think on my next long off ima get all fluids changed and take a road
trip in her..of course ima need to rack up on some emergency supplies, and
"extra" things like your talking about. First time won't be too far, but
mopars are meant to be driven!! Hopefully I won't have any
problems!
Sent from my iPhone
My car was a bitch to start. Dual quad
cross-ram and it had chokes just hanging on it. It always popped
through the carbs when cold. We hand-choked it and it did better so on
went electric chokes.
Now the car starts very easily, hot or cold,
just by pushing on the gas pedal hard enough to feel it move. Then
crank the engine. It will start when gas gets flowing through the
carbs. Don't pump the pedal.
I know most new cars you pump the pedal once
and let it all the way up and then start it up. Those
computer-controlled cars are hard to beat, but all the old timers who had
cars probably remember something they had to look out for and bring extra
of...brake fluid, screwdrivers, pliers, etc. Guys just like to fool
with mechanical things like cars. Its a good hobby. Nothing like
putting the pedal down and feeling the car pull hard.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 1:22
PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
So update on the hard start, so I got an original owners manual for
my car. It said when starting hold pedal down 1/3 to 1/2 when starting
whether hot or cold. It sets the automatic choke and when it's hot the
choke won't activate. I tried it and eureka! No problems at all. When
starting I always used to pump the pedal once or twice before starting
when cold and it said do not do that, but do it once after car is has been
started cold to reset choke. I'm sure y'all all knew that but I'm sure
didn't since I'm new to mopars.....FYI getting seats back Monday...I'll
post pics of what it looks like!
Sent from my iPhone
Then the choke and fast-idle cam that works
with the electric choke are probably where the problem
lies.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 8:54
PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
okay how do you make subfolders etc? im new to gmail.
i think we are talking about two different things...the cam
hes talking about is actually on the carb, not the fuel pump. ima
check out the choke thing first and see if that fixes it before i make
a shield for the fuel pump.
On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 7:25 PM, Stephen
Andrachek <s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
What pic in what service manual?
That's a clue for us to exploit.
First, it could be a cable or part of a
set up to make your inside air hot in the winter or cool in the
summer. Then it would be part of it on the outside and the
inside of the dash. This will probably already be answered by
the time you get it. Then just see the black and bold line at
the bottom and if you know what to do just delete this and all other
emails if you found your answer just make some sub-folders in email
with a main folder, 1962 to 1965 Q and A. and subfolders under that
for reference. Or one of many other ways. Access Gary's
web site via your cell phone. I'm lucky enough to get by but
many others struggle. Jacob seems like he could hook something
like that up forhimself if he wants but to me it is like reinventing
the wheel since its already been done. I probably beating a
dead horse below. But anyone alrealy knowinging it doesn't
have to read it and should always check out Gary's site before doing
anything anyway.
Lot's of stuff can run off one kind of
cam or another. The fuel pump runs off a cam. There is
one bolt there that you need a special wrench to get to or have a
new fuel pump put on by someone with that special wrench (usually
homemade) so all bolts are tight on the fuel pump. It can be
disabled with plate held on by two little bolts. If not, the
mechanical pump goes on right there. That pump contains I
think three and maybe four bolts holding it in. Even if the
person who got it out couldn't get it back in, he could have just
left it out, causing the other bolts to loosen and cause
problems. With an electric fuel pump and a pressure regulator,
you don't need no steenin' fuel pump and you can take it out and
plug up the hole(s). I think the plate covers it
all.
Coming out of the side of the block is
a rod made out of metal about 3/8"or so thidk with a spring
behind it. This may be close to the fuel pump or part of the
reassembly when you put a new one on. Here's where you can put
in a heavier spring in for more oil pressure on a 413 and up
Mopar block. Some used to put a flat washer behind the
cap-screw on that held it together and make the spring stronger that
way.
Gary's site has a lot more stuff
on it, but you are narrowing down the problem and it could
still be lots of things. On top of the other
things
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011
5:28 PM
Subject: Re: hot starting
& fuel?
is there anyway to disable the cam till i get a
chance to get something else? i noticed it was stuck the other day
after comparing my carb to a pic in the service manual. i noticed
something was different so i fiddled with it and click it went
where it should. its so hot down here all the time i dont really
need it right now, maybe when it gets cold in december-january.
On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Stephen
Andrachek <s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Get a carb like it rebuilt by
someone who knows what they are doing or get a new carb that
hooks up to your linkage ok. That sounds like a good place
to start. The "fast idle" cam seems to be stuck.
This cam keeps the engine at fast idle until it warms up
enough. Blocked heat risers may cause this, but I would
guess only in colder weather and only until the engine warmed
up.
Remember the old gas and the fuel
tank and fuel filters too.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26,
2011 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: hot starting
& fuel?
i just checked out those links...ill def be making one of
those! one thing i noticed though starting my car yesterday. i
noticed that my carb has no electric choke. when i crank it no
matter hot or cold i believe the choke is activating. I
noticed by the high idle and when i give it rpm a little while
after starting it goes back down. any ideas to check and see
if thats my problem? i never messed with any carb other than a
electric eldelbrock 4barrel, so this old 2barrel is new to me.
Thanks!
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car
transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to
the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice
will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar
Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions
and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse
Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. --
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only
one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions
and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal
to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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