Re: 727 torqueflite rebuild kit?

[MO <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I really miss those tech discussions. I think I learned more about
Mopars than any other way. Those posts would make a good
book..........................MO

On Apr 11, 8:50 am, Jim Altemose <jaltemo...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Below is a random pile of emails from Herb and Don Dulmage discussing
> the Torqueflite band adjustment.  For those of you new to the board,
> Don's knowledge and experience is worth it's weight in gold.
>
> - Jim
> Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
> '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
> '63 Polara 500 (383)
> '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
> '71 Bronco
>
> Jim and brian. if there is a shydder between 2nd and 3rd gear then the
> kickdown band is to tight. remove trans pan and adjust it so you can
> pull the leaver down 1/4 inch from the servo. forget the tighten to
> [[inch lbs and back of bla bla bla. The 1/4 inch thing is fool proof.
> trans is trying to apply third before second os released completley.
> probably because it is to snug.  Couldbevalve body problem but I am
> thinking the band adjustment is too tight.
> DonJim;
>
> Drain your converter! 80% of the fluid is in it. Pull the inspection cover
> from front of tranny and turn engine over by hand till you see the drain
> plug, remove it, go get a cold one, and let it drain.  You will probably
> finish before it will! (-;  You will get about 6 + qt's out of it. Reinstall
> plug & pan.  Fill with 4 qt's only and start. Then add the rest of the fluid
> engine running. If you attempt to fill it all the way before starting it
> will spit most of it on the ground when you do start it!!   Also if someone
> has over torqued the pan bolts and bowed the flange inward around the bolt
> holes now is the time to fix it. Take the pan and a piece of two by four and
> rest the flange on the edge of the two by four and with a hammer tap the
> area around each hole till it is flat like the surrounding flange. If you
> are comfortable with it, now is a great time to adjust your bands!  What Say
> You?  Thumbs up to Mobil synthetic.  But as always every one has their own
> favorite product!!
>          Jim:
>
> If ya don't ask ya don't learn!! Don is dead on! If you take the time and
> adjust the bands by torqueing and backing off you will find your self very
> close to what you get doing it by sight. You have two adjustments one kind
> of hard to get at on the outside by the linkage and one on the inside back
> of the pan. Loosen the lock nut, back it off about 4 or 5 turns and tighten
> the center stud down snug till no play at front servo and back it off till
> you get about 1/4 in gap between the lever and the servo. Hold the center
> stud in place and tighten the locknut. The reason to hold it from turning is
> to keep your adjustment. The easy one is the inside one after filter removal
>  Follow the same procedures as the front adjuster arm and wola you got it!!
> PS: don't get to upset if you find some metal in the pan that is normal.
> (AAmco will try and tell you it's transmission time, BS!) Also a lot of
> Torqueflite's have a round magnet like a doughnut stuck to the pan make sure
> you clean it & the pan as well as you can with any solvent! Also start all
> of your pan bolts, then snug them and lastly tighten them but not to tight
> that the gasket swells out of the sides! And when your dropping the pan
> remove the bolts from three corners of the pan and leave one corner tight.
> Pry the pan gently from the opposite corner that is tight with a big pan 12
> qt + under it. Your going to get about 4 quarts or more gushing out from the
> pan. Go slow and let it drain slow and you wont have any big mess to clean
> up! Be sure to make sure the pan is flat all the way around the flange and
> not bowed at the bolt holes because it will leak if left as is. Previously I
> explained how to straighten it with a 2 by 4 and hammer. Hope this helps!
> Any other questions feel free to ask, the only dumb question is the one you
> Don't ask!
>
> HerbJim:
>
> Sounds like your ready for anything!  Go Figure on the rain!  One last thing
> you might want to do is make sure your kickdown linkage is adjusted
> correctly.  Have someone floor the car (Not Running) and see if the kickdown
> linkage travels all the way as far as it will go to the rear. If it does not
>  adjust the threaded rod/rods till it does.  Your car should shift 1>2 at
> about 25 and 2>3 at about 35 mph under normal acceleration.
>
> Herb
>
> Don Dulmage bi...@xxxxxxxxxxxx via boing.topica.com
>
>         7/22/06
>
> to 1962to1965mopa.
>
> Way back in the dark ages , (aka long long ago) I had a hemi powered
> car. I first installed the engine in a 1963 Dodge post car. Some may
> have seen pictures of it on my website. The engine was a 68 Street
> Hemi that I rebuilt in Race Hemi form (12.5 to 1 comp) . I had got the
> engine in trade for a 383 I had built and had been running on the
> street in my 64 Dodge wagon. The Hemi would destroy transmissions
> quickly when RPM was pushed above 7000 RPM. I lived with the problem
> but later put the whole driveline in a Dart to loose some weight.
> About that time I met a fellow who had built auto trans for funny cars
> (back when they were using them before the Lenco came on the scene) He
> told me that the reason my trans were dying was I had an overlap in
> the second to 3rd shift since the same pressure used to apply third
> gear is also used to release the second gear band. He told me to buy a
> cheetah  turbo actions valve body and that would be a cure . He also
> shpwed methe resrictor from the transco kit and how it went in the
> third gear or direct clutch passage to slow down the apply of the
> direct clutch and give the second gear band a tiny moment more to
> release. He went on to say that what we all thought was a good hard
> shift from second to 3rd in the torque flite was actually the trans
> binding up from both the band and the clutch being on at the same time
> for a moment. He said as RPM increased above normal the problem was
> more severe. I was not impressed. After all I had a B&M valve body and
> thee was nothing wrong with that I was sure. He gave me a challenge.
> He said bring your car to my shop. we will put it on the hoist and
> have someone you trust run it through the gears even at moderate RPM.
> So I did and much to my surprise when the shift was made from 2nd to
> 3rd even at only 4000 RPM I could plainly see the wheel actually stop
> and all the lug nuts where plainly visable to my eye. I could not
> believe it. He then installed the Cheetah valve body and we retried
> the test. The wheel did not stop and the nuts were only a constant
> blurr. He went on to explain that the small transco kit was for the
> exact same problem in street trans with normal automatic function (I
> had a reverse  manual valve body in (both B&M and the Cheetah)
> Later when I started to do my own trans a friend came who did them for
> a living and showed me the second gear band adjustment trick. Between
> these two men i learned how to build bullet proof trannies.
> Both were aware that the second gear third gear overlap is the biggest
>  problem in these trans. While i am on the trans subject the other
> weak spot is the front sealing ring on the stator suport that saels
> the direct drum supply pressure  . The ring right at the front in
> normal use has only oil on one side and tends to wear severely in a
> race trans at high rpm. Turbo actions makes a stainless ring set and
> now we even have nometalic ones but the thing that really cured it for
> me was the switch to Synthetic trans fluid.
> That put an instant end to the sealin ring problem. An engineer from
> MObil  told me it would and I tried it rather dubiously but it is now
> something we neverr have trouble with.  His exact words to me were
> "well Don , aluminum melts at approx 1300 degrees. Mobil 1 trans fluid
> is stable to 1600 degrees so unless your trans has melted and run out
> on the ground the front sealing ring will still be sufficiently
> lubricated. BTW firstsign you are having that problem in a race car is
> youur mPH goes away with no explainable reason , usually a couple or 3
> mph. If you pull the trans you will find the direct clutch burn or
> beginning to burn and that front sealing ring on the stator support
> inside where the drum runs so worn that you will be able to shave with
> the sharp edge.
>
> PS Please forgive my previous post. This keyboard is giving me fits.If
> I press hard it will repeat the letter too quickly and if I pres
> normal it skips. I should have been in bed when I wrote the one last
> night. Sorry for the mess
> Don
> Author of
> Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
> Old Reliable (Mopar)http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 11, 2012 at 9:42 AM, Jim Altemose <jaltemo...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Does adjusting the bands have anything to do with shifting between 1
> > and 2?  I was having trouble shifting between 2nd and 3rd several
> > years ago.  Herb and Don Dulmage posted a simple procedure for
> > adjusting the bands which I did myself and worked fine.  Cars been
> > shifting well for 4 years since.  I can post the procedure.  Could
> > save you a lot of trouble and it's easy to try first.
>
> > - Jim
> > Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
> > '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
> > '63 Polara 500 (383)
> > '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
> > '71 Bronco
>
> > On Wed, Apr 11, 2012 at 12:25 AM, Gary Wilson <gwwilso...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >> Trans Parts in Portland Or  Probably has the parts.  May be call Portland
> >> Transmission now.  They alway had what I needed and prices were fair.  The
> >> 727s are easy to do if you read up on them and pay attention. l Main think
> >> is clean clean and clean.  Pay attention to the clutch pacs and main sure
> >> valve body is clean.  Don't loose the little ball bearings.
>
> >> On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 3:28 PM, doug daniel <dougdanie...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> >>> buy new fluid and filter drain torque converter and replace fluid ,,,it
> >>> may help ,,for a while
>
> >>> From: Zachary Ross <zachros...@xxxxxxxxx>
> >>> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 6:22 PM
> >>> Subject: 727 torqueflite rebuild kit?
>
> >>> Hey to all!
>
> >>> I have a 1964 Dodge 880 Custom with a push button automatic 727
> >>> torqueflite transmission.
>
> >>> My transmission is having trouble shifting from 1st to 2nd.... It has
> >>> fluid in it.. and the fluid is
>
> ...
>
> read more »- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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