I'm thinking mine will have around the 120%. But I'm going to run skinny tires and not race it. So I hope the mitymounts will keep the motor between the fenders.
Sent from my iPhone I saw the diagram of the those mounts you have. Looks like they will do well for you and keep the stock look. I am sure mine will exceed 120% of a stock 383 power and I actually want the performance look, So I will try a torque strap.............................MO On Thursday, July 6, 2017 at 8:48:57 PM UTC-5, john1964 wrote: I received the mitymounts. They appear to be OEM mounts with two large screws added to the drivers side mount turning it into a solid mount for the most part. The head of the screw is countersunk into the body side steel plate of the mount. The shank end of the screw is tack welded onto the engine side steel plate of the mount. The passenger side mount has no apparent modifications. They appear to be identical to the mounts I purchased for $29.99 a pair without the two screws. The pictures are of the mitymounts. In the first picture the mount marked driver's side. I'm pointing to the weld marks where the screws shank are attached. The other screws weld marks are under hidden under the drivers side sticker. The second picture down is of the counter sunk heads of the screws on the same mount. Next picture is a side view of the drivers side mount showing the screw heads. The last picture is of the passenger side mount. The mounts came with the labels. They also came with a form requesting personal information. The VIN number year make and model of the vehicle they are going to be installed on. They have a life time warranty. The engine has to be stock and not exceed 120% of their original factory rated horse power. The registration must be completed within 30 days and is not transferable to a new owner. The mount will be replaced no other damages will be covered. steve,
you broke poly-lock motor mounts? wow. i'm curious when your pinion yoke broke if that caused the mounts to break with your drive shaft flailing about at speed. if that is the case i would check your trans mount also. i see a torque strap in your future. mike On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 1:30 AM, MO <mic...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Today, I find that I have a separated motor mount on the left and a right one that is torn. These were in the Schumacker big block into a 318 K frame kit. I have had them for about three-four years, and very few miles last Fall and so far this year. I admit, I was abuseing them with a few " launches" Schumacker does not have the mounts in stock and I see they are out of stock on about all motor mounts. It appears they are made by Imperial Services. I do not want the Chinese made ones. I found a pair of OEM motor mount isolators on e-bay. Doesn't that mean, made by the company that supplied Mopar and therefore made in USA? With the issues mentioned in this thread, I don't think I want to try expensive polyurathane or lock type mounts , nor solid mounts. So, I am going with the stock mounts and the Schumacker torque "strap" ........................MO
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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