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Adding A/C to 61 Plymouth Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Heating, Cooling and Air Conditioning | Message format |
Apollo 61 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 769 | I have a 61 non A/C 361 3spd Manuel GC Fury. I removed the aftermarket radio,to find a hacked up dash frame that needs replacing. I have a rare 61 Fury factory A/C poly 318 3 spd Manuel parts car. The A/C appears to be complete.. The dash wiring on this car is very hacked up and not very usable. I have a 2 donor A/C 63 300s and a few 62 A/C cars that will have all the BB A/C brackets/ pulleys/ radiator etc. needed I even have some cans of R-12 My questions for you guys are! Is it a bad idea to have Manuel trans with A/C ? I seem to remember hearing somewhere that it was not recommended by Chrysler dealers to have A/C and Manuel ? How much of the 61 wire harness is dedicated to the A/C? Would the 63 300 harness have comparable usable A/C harness? I know there different at firewall. Do I send a compressor off for rebuilding and conversion to R34? As far A/C lines and hoses is there source repops for 60-64? Or do you just recondition what you have? Need opinions and advice on this conversion. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3778 Location: NorCal | I see no problem with a manual trans and A/C. With the combo of parts cars you have, it should be a fairly easy swap. The wiring? Just follow the schematic in the FSM. Hopefully the pushbutton control is functional. If you intend to use R-134 just drain the compressor oil, reseal the front and add the necessary quantity of PAG oil. I would also rebuild all of the rubber hoses with modern barrier hose because the old hoses are sure to leak. | ||
51coronet |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 360 | You may need to set the idle higher if its below about 800-900. Manual cars typically have a lower idle than autos this in turn may stall your car if the AC kicks on at idle. As far as wiring goes its really a single wire that activates the clutch on the AC unit. You can have it manual controlled or thermostat. There are a few things that come into play humidity being a big one. In high humidity the heater core may need to cycle fluid to keep the AC core from building up a layer of ice which in turn blocks air flow. On the firewall the heater core sits in front of the AC core inside the black duct box and air is pushed through both. So be aware of this and set your system up accordingly or cycle it yourself. Im in a low humidity area so removed all the old controls for this in my imperial they didnt work anyway and I do not plan on putting them back. AC switch on means full cold air no other devices or thermostats, only thing that needs to work is the expansion valve. I will adjust the heater valve if needed with the controls in the car to get the right temp or to defrost the core. Edited by 51coronet 2020-06-07 2:29 AM | ||
Apollo 61 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 769 | Thanks for response. I think it will be a easy conversion compared to some other A/C conversions | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | You'll need to hack a big hole in the firewall for the evaporator. (64226686_10216623809445332_8235165457217224704_n.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 64226686_10216623809445332_8235165457217224704_n.jpg (55KB - 417 downloads) | ||
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