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1957 Dodge TorqueFlite takes long time to engage drive. Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Transmission and Rear Axle | Message format |
local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | On my 1957 Dodge Sierra,325 cuin., TorqueFlite transmission , when the transmission is cold like sitting overnight, it takes about 10 minutes of running before Drive will engage. It will engage reverse right away but drive takes a long time. When warmed up, by either backing up the driveway and coasting forward downhill a bunch of times or letting it idle for about 10 minutes it will then engage drive normally and continue to work properly for as long as I drive it. The next time it sits say overnight, the process starts over again. It has new fluid, I don't think I adjusted the bands, and I tried a Lucas transmission additive to supposedly soften seals but that didn't work. I've searched but I'm not quite sure which part is malfunctioning but I would like to find out the fix and or problem before I take it to a transmission shop for an estimate. I'm also considering a used transmission but that is in another thread. Thanks. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The problem you describe indicates internal leakage, most probably the steel seal rings or worn groves in the steel seal ring bores. Meanwhile, do not increase the engine rpm for to build up the pressure more quickly. Never push in R directly, always engage D first and wait for the pressure to build up - then push R. | ||
Mr. Bob |
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Regular Posts: 66 Location: Ferndale, WA 98248 | I had the exact same problem with my 57 Dodge a year ago. Lucas actually made it worse, as it makes things more slippery. What fixed it was draining out the tranny fluid with the Lucas in it, and putting in fresh tranny fluid with Trans X. The Trans X softened up the seals. Now it engages Drive instantly every time! | ||
Mr. Bob |
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Regular Posts: 66 Location: Ferndale, WA 98248 | I forgot to mention, the Trans X is not an instant fix. It took decades for your tranny seals to shrivel and harden. It will take the Trans X a few weeks to soak in and do its magic. Starting and driving it every few days after adding the Trans X seemed to help too. Also, my car was not as bad as yours, mine usually engaged drive in a minute or so, not 10 minutes. You might need to add a 2nd bottle of Trans X after a month if the 1st bottle doesn't fully solve it. | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3400 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Permanent fix requires pulling the trans going thru it. | ||
local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | Shep - 2020-07-19 4:49 PM Permanent fix requires pulling the trans going thru it. Agreed. I still don't know exactly what part is malfunctioning. Wizards post mentions steel seal rings or worn seal ring bores. I don't know what part he is talking about. Other poster mentions softening seals but on what part. I need to know what is not working so if I take it somewhere they don't just put in new clutches, bands, gaskets etc. and not address the problem. Another problem I have is finding a transmission shop that I can trust. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | It's normalt the front clutch that has bad rubber seals and Steel rings. Seal softeners might work, but a torn seal is torn. Check an exploded view of the fast iron hog and you will är the parts. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3778 Location: NorCal | local2Ed - 2020-07-20 5:46 AM Wizards post mentions steel seal rings or worn seal ring bores. I don't know what part he is talking about. Other poster mentions softening seals but on what part. The pic below shows a breakdown of the front clutch, the parts identified as Q and R are the rubber seals that seal the clutch piston to its bore. When these seals harden/shrink with age, they allow fluid pressure to leak and the piston can't apply enough pressure to engage the clutches identified a D and E. The parts identified as O and P are the metal sealing rings that allow fluid from a stationary source to enter the rotating clutch drum. Again, when these wear and allow leakage, the piston can't apply the clutches. With age, failure of either or both of these will prevent proper operation of the front clutch which is needed for all forward gears. Edited by 57chizler 2020-07-20 12:35 PM (Fr Cl.PNG) Attachments ---------------- Fr Cl.PNG (128KB - 230 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Thanks' John! | ||
samstrader |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 446 Location: Beaumont TX | Have you tried TransX. That stuff has fixed a couple of transmissions for me and my brother in law. It's magic. | ||
local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | Thanks 57Chizler and Wizard. That's exactly what I was looking for. Would it be correct to assume these parts would be replaced during a rebuild? | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Yes and no - seal rings both steel and rubber - no problems. Ift the bore for the steel rings are worn you must get this hard part, the stator shaft. | ||
Mr. Bob |
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Regular Posts: 66 Location: Ferndale, WA 98248 | My last 2 cents on the subject - it is relatively cheap to drain your trans and put in new trans fluid with a bottle of Trans X. If it doesn't work in a couple of weeks, you're out less than $100 if you do it yourself. It worked on my car, and for others on this board. 57 Chizer who supplied the tech info above is who recommended I try the Trans X. Or you can skip that step, and go straight to spending $1,500+ to have your trans rebuilt. If you can find someone to do it. Falls under the Wayne Gretzky theory of life: every shot you don't take, doesn't go in. | ||
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