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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Body, Glass, Interior and Trim | Message format |
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Front Seats: The seat and the backrest cannot be adjusted. They have a fixed angle, as it was on all former American cars I owned. I found always the backrest a little bit too steep and uncomfortable (1). Thus, the first modification I used to do was to increase the angle between seat and backrest. To know: The 6-way seat adjuster tilts the entire seat. Edited by sermey 2012-07-23 2:26 PM (1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg) (2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg) (3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg) (4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg) (5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg (121KB - 715 downloads) 2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg (93KB - 733 downloads) 3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg (92KB - 728 downloads) 4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg (127KB - 724 downloads) 5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg (134KB - 711 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Black Painted Items 2: The black color spray I used for my items (see: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...), my reserve has now exhaust and couldn’t get anymore. This was the best black spray I ever used. It needed many contacts with manufacturers and suppliers to find an equivalent. And now I have found the identical one, from another supplier, in a new wrapping. It has the same fast-drying solvent, as well exactly the same satin-matt tint. All my comparative tests showed identical results. Here how they call it newly (marketing!): Rust Stop 4 in 1, Rust protecting paint, deep black, satin mat, RAL9005, and the products description, as printed: Active rust protection by effective 4-in-1 high-solid coating system: 1. Primer. 2. Rust protection. 3. Colour. 4. Sealing. Fast-drying and high coverage. Excellent adhesion on nearly all surfaces, even directly on rust. Liquid corrosion inhibitor. Brand: Dupli-Color (868320). In Switzerland available in LANDI (03487).
(New Black Spray Satin.jpg) Attachments ---------------- New Black Spray Satin.jpg (130KB - 724 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Dual Rear Antenna Connection: At the end of the fifties in cars mostly radios for long waves (LF: 148.5kHz – 283.5kHz, 2000m - 1058m) and medium waves (MF: 520kHz – 1620kHz, 576m -185m ), with a bandwidth of 9kHz have been usual. For these radios, the option of dual rear antennas have been offered (1). Later, with radios for very short waves (VHF: 1m – 10m, UHF: 10cm – 1m), the dual rear antennas disappeared, due to interference and as result fading. On FWL-cars the dual rear antennas have a distance of 154.5cm (to relate with the RF wave length). They are parallel-connected with a coupler. The original has wrapped antenna cable (2). The repro needs a plugged cable extension (3). The so coupled dual antennas then will work without problems when connected to an original MF-radio. For best reception, this radio should be optimized in sensitivity by adjusting the capacitor trimmer near the antenna input (4) (5). (*) Details about the radio: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...
Edited by sermey 2012-07-26 7:58 AM (1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg) (2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg) (3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg) (4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg) (5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg) (6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg) (7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg) (8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg (90KB - 714 downloads) 2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (74KB - 744 downloads) 3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (59KB - 752 downloads) 4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg (91KB - 722 downloads) 5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg (80KB - 772 downloads) 6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg (119KB - 745 downloads) 7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg (106KB - 729 downloads) 8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg (92KB - 702 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13050 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Again, thanks' Serge for good tips and tricks - I will copy the swivel seat backrest modification. You are totally right, the angle is too step OEM and full tilt does not give what a driver would like to have... | ||
1959 Belvedere Conv |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1107 Location: Arvada, Colorado (NW Denver Metro Area) | Serge, I agree with Sven (Wizard) that is a great fix on the seats for a more comfortable sitting position with that modification to the stop area. I know you changed the rear seats too for a better angle of comfort but I will keep that angle as factory. I also need to reverse my Chrome seat hinge screws, I have the slotted end inside and the clear rivet part out. I thought it looked better that way. The seat pivot works fine but small details like that do count. Edited by 1959 Belvedere Conv 2012-07-26 11:43 PM | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Front Seats 2: For those who want this modification to be reversible, here I did the seatback angle adjustable, to a fixed angle: N.B. As I like my fixed setting, these pictures are real-view mounted for illustration on PS. Edited by sermey 2012-07-27 3:10 AM (6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg) (7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg) (8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg) (9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg (80KB - 726 downloads) 7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg (102KB - 674 downloads) 8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg (90KB - 666 downloads) 9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg (123KB - 742 downloads) | ||
FIN ME |
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Expert Posts: 2788 Location: USA - KY | Amazing stuff, Serge! Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book! Great photos...please keep them coming! | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | FIN ME - 2012-08-02 4:57 PM Amazing stuff, Serge! Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book! Great photos...please keep them coming! :) Thanks for your kind comment, and to all the many people viewing this thread. Three hints to the photos: - 1. clean the item - 2. remove around all what not needed - 3. then at all if possible: NO flash to keep the deepness! - SERGE - | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Fuel Alert Contact: In addition to: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=173&start=41 Now, when the LED goes on, I read the odometer and know exactly how far the remaining fuel will last, independent of the vague fuel gauge reading (05). For today cars nothing exceptional, but all the more on a fifties car. – SERGE - N.B. The elegant solution is using a differetial OPAMP, no extra wires, but same variable resistor. Finally I was restoring a car, not again designing an electronic device. Edited by sermey 2012-08-07 1:48 AM (01 - Micro-Switch.jpg) (02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg) (03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg) (04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg) (05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg) (06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Micro-Switch.jpg (100KB - 733 downloads) 02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg (67KB - 724 downloads) 03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg (108KB - 737 downloads) 04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg (101KB - 739 downloads) 05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg (99KB - 699 downloads) 06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg (130KB - 707 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Wider tires: Modern wider tires transform a car visually to a more powerful vehicle. This is obvious when comparing two tire types next to each other on the similar FWL-Car: Original Dodge Diagonal Type, and replacement Radial Type (01). This and the much better stability on the street, mainly in curves and when braking, brought me to do this switch. First, shortly abstract considerations on dimensions:
Edited by sermey 2012-08-07 9:37 AM (01 - Comparison Front View.jpg) (02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg) (03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg) (04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg) (05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg) (06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg) (07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Comparison Front View.jpg (160KB - 707 downloads) 02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg (104KB - 700 downloads) 03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg (90KB - 735 downloads) 04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg (130KB - 700 downloads) 05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg (111KB - 715 downloads) 06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg (114KB - 727 downloads) 07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg (118KB - 708 downloads) | ||
Leadfoot1000 |
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Veteran Posts: 241 Location: Southern CA | Thanks for sharing all the great tips, I will apply many to my car (as soon as I get one). Your car is awesome! | ||
Windsor59 |
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Expert Posts: 2596 Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | Hi sermey Your are Good to ut better, I dont like this, maby you can Do this better: Only one stop when you open the door At fl Cars. I Will have two stop. Some times at parking you have not lots off space, and only can oppend The door litle. | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND |
Thank you and as new member welcome on this site. What you see here is mostly “cold coffee”, because the restoration was completed about 15 years ago. At this time I had no digital camera. Now, not so easy to comment and particular to show “before – after”. Sometimes I must use pictures of other cars as reference. - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2012-08-08 2:29 PM | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Wide tires: Supplement Edited by sermey 2012-08-08 3:40 PM (Coker Tire Radial Cross Reference.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Coker Tire Radial Cross Reference.jpg (169KB - 818 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND |
A useful option that make sense. I will have a look at. - SERGE - | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Filling Fine Scripts: For fine letters, standard paints will sometimes “over-layer” when filling. For this purpose, the thinnest paint I found was the Permanent Refill Ink (01), used for water resistant marker felt pens. It is very fast-drying and has a high coverage. (*) A felt pen is not suitable for a homogeneous coating on metal. Edited by sermey 2012-08-14 8:30 PM (01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg) (02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg) (03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg (97KB - 709 downloads) 02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg (108KB - 700 downloads) 03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg (61KB - 726 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Leaking Valve Covers: At the first glance it seemed to be an easy thing to mount the valve covers without any leaking . . . . . but finally I got it. First all contact surfaces of the valve cover have to be properly mated all around. Often, around the bolt holes the cover is deformed due to a previous too strong tightening. For a sure sealing, Silicon Gasket (as already presented earlier) is applied just on the inner edges of the valve cover (1). Remember: this is not glue for fixing and will not harden. It remains soft (20 shore) and allows an easy removal of the cover. Any other similar Silicon can be used, but it must be resistant to temperatures in the range of -40 to +180deg. Before tightening, when visible the gasket then can be pushed under the cover (2). To avoid local high pressing and a deformation around the head of the bolt, special hold-down brackets are being used. These give two additional extended hold-down points (3). The big washer improves the local stability around the bolt holes, shorten virtually the bolt for the cap nut and hide the eccentric bore. Polished stainless cap nuts (4) underline the overall harmonic style of the engine compartment (5). - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2012-09-01 3:03 PM (1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg) (2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg) (3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg) (4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg) (5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg (72KB - 775 downloads) 2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg (93KB - 744 downloads) 3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg (120KB - 695 downloads) 4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg (117KB - 700 downloads) 5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg (136KB - 714 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Carpets and Floor Mats 1: With my 1959 Dodge Convertible I got white Knight Rubber Mats I never saw elsewhere. I found these exceptional and thus present them here. The Side Emblem ot the front mat seems to be equal to the Center Emblem. Since restored, I used other Carpets and Floor Mats in my car, and will thread them in a next part to come. - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2012-09-02 4:27 AM (01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg) (02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg) (03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg) (04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg (150KB - 805 downloads) 02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg (122KB - 686 downloads) 03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg (94KB - 684 downloads) 04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg (99KB - 712 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Carpets and Floor Mats 2: On the market a wide range of said "Original Floor Mats" are offered. There are very nice ones and available at a reasonable price. Others, described as “original” size doesn’t fit at all. I set my personal standards on quality, material, color and finish, mainly based on practical considerations. Furthermore, on a Convertible some specs on carpets have higher weighting, being more exposed than on a Sedan. Here my arguments: 1. The quality. There are two basic carpet versions being used: the "loop pile" and the "cut pile" (05). Practical arguments brought me to use exclusively "cut pile" carpet.(06): Cleaning a carpet from any dirt, the "loop pile" prevents to remove it, the dirt will even enter more in the carpet. Furthermore, hanging on a loop, the carpet may be damaged all along a line. Other the "cut pile": when brushing, the slanted pile supports to take out the dirt easily. It is invisible, when added two parts together, or when inserted a round stamped sample in damaged spots. Walking on a good quality cut pile floor is noticeable much more comfortable, and it has a better absorbance of sound and noise. 2. The material. In a car, exposed to humidity and oil, a full synthetic material is a must. It doesn't rot, thus offer a longer lifetime, and is much more resistive to aggressive cleanser. 3. The color. It should match to the interior of the car, preferably unicolored not visually interfering to other items. Unicolor generally looks more precious, is calmative, but as well more delicate when not clean. 4. The finish: Solid and wear resistant base enabling to glue when needed, no under foam-coating, all around bordered to prevent fringing. On my Convertible, at the time not finding floor insertions or original mats, all was custom made with loop pile carpets, black synthetic, solid tissue base and vinyl-bordered all around (07) (08). Instead of bordering, on straight edging a plastic profiles as used to fix papers can be applied as protection (09). The same profile I used inside of my door sills (see: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=184&start=13). If needed for attaching, rubber or plastic items can be inserted as shown (10). (will be continued) (05 - Basics Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg) (06 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg) (07 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Upper Side bordered.jpg) (08 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Under Side bordered.jpg) (09 - Alternative bordering with a Profile.jpg) (10 - Rubber for attaching.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 05 - Basics Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg (96KB - 701 downloads) 06 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg (154KB - 705 downloads) 07 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Upper Side bordered.jpg (130KB - 729 downloads) 08 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Under Side bordered.jpg (132KB - 710 downloads) 09 - Alternative bordering with a Profile.jpg (109KB - 720 downloads) 10 - Rubber for attaching.jpg (109KB - 723 downloads) | ||
mogge65 |
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Expert Posts: 1295 Location: Nasco , SWEDEN | This thread is really outstanding, just love to read an see what he´s up to! Sermey "The Magic Man" | ||
Leadfoot1000 |
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Veteran Posts: 241 Location: Southern CA | sermey - 2009-02-01 4:44 AM 15” Wheels and Tires: I always found, 14” Wheels on my Car are relatively too small and look poor in Proportion to the Body and its Wheelhouse. Must say, this was the Style at this time. The other Point, bigger and wider Tires have much better Adhesion on the Street, the 235/70/15 Radial Tires about +25% in Comparison to the Original 14” Diagonal ones. This improvement is necessarily needed for a full Advantage of Disk Brakes. Thus, I decided in favor of 15” Wheels and the corresponding WWW Tires, still keeping the Original 14” Wheel Set including the Spinner Hubcaps. In order to keep the Original Appearance, the Original HubCaps should fit to the 15” Rims. I bought 15” decorative stainless Rings, cut out the Border around, and soldered it inside the Wheel Cover. For a stronger Fixing on the rechromed Wheels I increased the Clamp Pression by putting a soft round PVC Profile under the Clamps. Now, the Hubcaps fit perfectly to the 15” Rims, their Edges are even protected from Curbstones due to the inner Position, and the Air Valve is perfectly centered as well. According my personal feeling, this Wheel Size gives the Car its settled Proportions. Another improvement of the Outfit, for the Drivers Security, and as an additional Benefit the Wheel Cover Edge Protection. (can see, my HubCaps are not perfect, but polished and with the sticked Black they look as) Hi Sermey, I plan to get 235-70/15's for my car also. Can you please tell me what's the width of the white walls on your tires? Your choice of white walls provides the same look I'm trying to achieve. By the way, I bought a car a few weeks ago if you want to see it under Member's Rides title "My 57 New Yorker." Steve | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Leadfoot1000 - 2012-09-08 7:01 AM sermey - 2009-02-01 4:44 AM . . . . what's the width of the white walls on your tires? Steve Measured on the car: 70.5mm = 2.775" According the Manufacturer Coker Tire: Radial P235/70R15, WW 2n3/4 (see attached Specs 2012) - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2012-09-08 7:25 AM (1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.jpg (231KB - 702 downloads) 1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.pdf (148KB - 887 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Fan Shroud: My car didn’t had a Fan Shroud (01). On a car meeting I purchased a Chrome Metal Fan Shroud, thinking this would give the engine compartment a more valuated look, will prevent parts or screws falling on the propeller when working at idling, and as protection from casually touch inside. (old Pic 02). So far so good. In hot summer, at longer stops and idling I encountered critical heating situations, the engine room got quite hot. I was reflecting: without a shroud, the fan blows not only axial, but as well partially radial as a centrifugal fan. My Metal Shroud, covering only 65% of the propeller, now caused in idle more air to be centrifuged downward instead towards the engine. -> Just check it! I took a high temperature Heat Protective Mat (03), put this over a panel to seal airtight underneath the fan and front (04). As result, the heating was noticeable reduced. Then I purchased two Chrome Metal Shrouds, the longest available (170mm), one for the upper, the other one for the lower side of the fan. They had to be exactly marked for a partly cut-out to fit all around (05). Needed cut-outs for: the water hose (06), the generator belt (07), the steering pump, the transmission oil lines (08), and a bending on the fuel pump side (09). All these cuts were previously simulated with a cardboard sample. Then the prepared two halves (to see lower Shroud) (10) (11) could be mounted very easy, without disassembling anything, and fixed with long bolts through the radiator. The distance of the shroud to the propeller, here should be taken in consideration the movement of the engine on bad streets. The short Metal Shroud was initially mounted too near, as signs of contacts can be seen on the comparison (12). Now this Chrome Metal Shroud makes multiple sense: protection, outfit and an improved cooling at longer stop (13). - SERGE - Comment: If you find a standard shroud fitting the radiator you will save some handiwork, but will have to disassemble some items! Edited by sermey 2012-09-08 12:35 PM (01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg) (02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg) (03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg) (04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg) (05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg) (06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg) (07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg) (08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg) (09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg) (10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg) (11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg) (12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg) (13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg (153KB - 694 downloads) 02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg (137KB - 705 downloads) 03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg (116KB - 699 downloads) 04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg (100KB - 735 downloads) 05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg (94KB - 673 downloads) 06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg (112KB - 697 downloads) 07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg (82KB - 704 downloads) 08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg (138KB - 709 downloads) 09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg (114KB - 716 downloads) 10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg (108KB - 738 downloads) 11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg (114KB - 701 downloads) 12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg (101KB - 706 downloads) 13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg (133KB - 699 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Trunk Edge: The lower trunk edge is most exposed to damage when loading items not carefully. The paint is most badly affected. In addition, this edge is even not exactly straight. A profile in plastic or rubber, preferably in the cars color, could eliminate this situation. I found a plastic channel used in electric installations, in white as the car (1). The cover fits to the trunk edge as required (2). The trunk seal keep it in the right position (3) ( ! the carpet is black and ends up with the profile). Some rubber profiles or a small slotted hose would work as well. Now, the trunk edge is protected, straight, no color damages anymore, all as it should always be (4). – SERGE - (1 - White Profile.jpg) (2 - Applied White Protective Profile.jpg) (3 - Protective Profile fixed behind Trunk Seal.jpg) (4 - Protected Trunk Edge - Top View.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - White Profile.jpg (68KB - 723 downloads) 2 - Applied White Protective Profile.jpg (139KB - 742 downloads) 3 - Protective Profile fixed behind Trunk Seal.jpg (119KB - 725 downloads) 4 - Protected Trunk Edge - Top View.jpg (98KB - 706 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Emblem on Ash Tray: As already shown earlier in this thread, I had fixed the small Knight Head (01) on the ash tray. It is the same as already on the steering wheel. Looking a little bit “lost”, I replaced it now by the more sophisticated emblem used on the Glove Box of the 1959 Coronet (02-03). If nicer to put there an emblem, particulary this new one depends on each personal taste (04-05). Anyway, as lover of emblems I like it. Another eye-catcher! - SERGE - :laugh:
Edited by sermey 2014-05-11 8:15 AM (01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg) (02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg) (03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg) (04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg) (05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg (63KB - 664 downloads) 02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg (95KB - 637 downloads) 03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg (63KB - 642 downloads) 04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg (88KB - 646 downloads) 05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg (119KB - 654 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Bright Back Light: When replacing the bulbs by LEDs for backlight, there are various LED lamps available that fit to the socket 1156 BA (01). Here not shown all. The standard replacement LEDs shines more white then brighter. One solution for a brighter light is to use Super Bright LEDs, as the power dissipation and therefore the heating effect remains small. A next step brighter is to use instead of the 1156 BA single lamp the High Power 1157 BA dual Lamp (Turn Signal / Brake), when bridging the two connectors, and adapting one fixing pin to fit to the single contact socket (02). The difference between standard bulb and Power LED manifests in color and an impressive brightness (03). Now, turning backwards at night, the street is sufficient illuminated, in respect to ground and in distance (04). – SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2014-05-16 12:34 PM (01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg) (02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg) (03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg) (04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg (47KB - 667 downloads) 02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg (68KB - 641 downloads) 03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg (73KB - 646 downloads) 04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg (80KB - 644 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13050 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Nice idea Serge, thanks' for sharing! | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | The Last Emblem: Many years ago I found a nice ForwardLook Emblem with a Dodge Script. Because I liked I purchased, even I had never seen this one on a 1959 Dodge. It got a nice place under the left Front Seat (01). Since then I was looking for a similar Emblem for the right side, but without the Dodge Script - a ForwardLook Emblem should never be mounted Backward. Now I found what I was looking for a long time (02). It has got his reserved place, looking happily forward as his brother on the left side (03). Another hidden eye-catcher (04). Was this the last emblem to be mounted on my 1959 Dodge Convertible? - SERGE -
(01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg) (02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg) (03 Emblem RH -25.jpg) (04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg (128KB - 614 downloads) 02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg (61KB - 628 downloads) 03 Emblem RH -25.jpg (118KB - 591 downloads) 04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg (118KB - 631 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13050 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | That looks really like a nice emblem Serge - fact I don't recall ever seeing such a nicely shaped one?! Is there a story behind?? | ||
FIN ME |
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Expert Posts: 2788 Location: USA - KY | Looks great, Serge! Love your work. You are part mechanic, part artist! Astounding attention to detail! | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Flashing LEDs: Brighter light on directional and rear lamps can be achieved when using LEDs of the new generation (01). They about 10% current consumption then standard bulbs. With this low current the common thermostatic operated flasher (02) will not work anymore. Load resistors of about 6 Ohm/20Watt (03) are offered to connect in parallel to each replaced bulb. To keep it low-cost, one resistor can be connected directly at the output of the flasher and will then be parallel to any LEDs in flashing mode. With the load resistor the additional “advantage” of a lower current consumption is lost, but it works. Using an electronic controlled flasher (astable multivibrator) with relais (04), the flash frequency will be independent of the loading. It is defined by the time-constant, and can be modified by the value of a capacitor or resistor (05). Simpler is to use an adjustable electronic flasher (06), The pin configuration enables to replace directly the standard flasher. It needs an additional lead to ground. Now the flashing frequency can be modified manually in a wide range by turning the axis of the potentiometer, and independent of load and voltage it remains stable. The simplest and lowest cost solution at all is to keep all the bulbs connected, but outside the housing (in a thermo- protected and dimmed space), and insert the LED lamps in parallel. The total current will increase about 10% and as well the flashing frequency. The result with Power LEDs is a Super Bright Rear Light, when flashing and at stop. With the camera the brightest red becomes yellow (07)! To get a warmer and homogenous white light I covered the front LEDs with a Dessert Cap (08), only possible because the LED doesn’t heat. With parking LEDs ON, now the car can keep the battery charge up to one week, at super bright light! - SERGE - :laugh:
(01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg) (02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg) (03 Load Resistors.jpg) (04 Electronic Flasher.jpg) (05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg) (06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg) (07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg) (08 Dessert Cap.jpg) (09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg (74KB - 611 downloads) 02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 588 downloads) 03 Load Resistors.jpg (76KB - 599 downloads) 04 Electronic Flasher.jpg (72KB - 588 downloads) 05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg (93KB - 574 downloads) 06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 614 downloads) 07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg (96KB - 605 downloads) 08 Dessert Cap.jpg (51KB - 598 downloads) 09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg (80KB - 580 downloads) | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Very good Always enjoy reading this thread (been a long time since something new) I will add though that those "scotch locks" (red wire taps) belong in the bin, nothing but electrical gremlin makers especially on anything that draws a current | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Dash Pad 1: When I got my Dodge, the dash pad was hard, dried and partly broken. There was no other way then to remove it (01). After cleaning the surface I used the same black vinyl to coat it as for the door panels (02). Applying on both sides enough Contact Glue, as for the arm rests (see earlier post), the coating got softer, could then be stretched and pulled around the edges. Fixed with masking tape I had to wait one week. The instruments metallic insert (03) then mounted over when black painted. The right side rounding was simulated by a coated metal (04).The result was impressive, as shown in 06 – 08. There was just one negative aspect: the surface was not padded and there were no ribbers. Looking at the old brochure the ribbing is also missing (09), but I think this was a preliminary draft. The illustration in the parts book, the dash pad shows ribbes (10 black), as can be seen on cars with the original pad (11 blue, for Ron). Today the Swedish company RD Autoline (Tony) reproduces this one and many other dash pads in a stunning originality and at high quality standard. What I saw in documentations is a high skilled artwork. I ordered one for my 1959 Dodge Convertible and will later report the proceeding in mounting it, in: Dash Pad 2. - SERGE -
(01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg) (02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg) (03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg) (04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg) (05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg) (06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg) (07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg) (08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg) (09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg) (10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg (91KB - 596 downloads) 02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg (112KB - 611 downloads) 03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg (97KB - 571 downloads) 04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg (96KB - 609 downloads) 05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg (134KB - 615 downloads) 06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg (124KB - 568 downloads) 07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg (112KB - 597 downloads) 08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg (79KB - 576 downloads) 09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg (53KB - 591 downloads) 10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg (93KB - 569 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Weak Hood Spring: When I got my Dodge, the hood had to be kept up with a wooden bar because of weakened springs. Thus I had first to reproduce stronger springs, and found a manufacturer. For an incredible price of CHF 80.00 he produced for me (1994), according the sample I sent him, 3 different pairs of springs, so I could test them on the car (01) and make the choice. What you see are the remaining 2 new pairs. I kept the pair of spring that just hold up the hood and painted them in white as the car (02). Since then the hood is up as it should. - SERGE –
Edited by sermey 2015-04-08 12:05 PM (01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg) (02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg (132KB - 561 downloads) 02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg (77KB - 624 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hi Serge With a big interest I'm following your thred. You're like a Wizard here in Switzerland. Thank you very much for all your helpful hints. I'm sure I could use some of your hints for my Letter after it comes back from the body shop. I'm happy I could meet you at Zug on April 20th this year and we'll do the journey to the PBM together. Big hugs. Till later, take care,
Dieter | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7402 Location: northern germany | hoodinki - 2015-04-08 12:13 PM We all got that stick, I prefer the unscrewable wooden type on push brooms. I remember needing these, and a wheel chuck to keep in the trunk for parking on hills if you had a Powerflite, back in the 1970s for my Plymouth. Not really MBZ engineering going on back then. No wonder Plymouth is now Dead,. wtf?! in 100 000s of miles driving my plymouth or other fls i never had the slightest problems with hood springs or the very efficient parking brakes. they lock the tires anytime and on the steepest hills. don't blame these fine cars for poor maintenance. these cars are build for the eternity IF properly serviced. | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Front Light Connections: All wires of the front lights lead to a Terminal Block located in front of the battery (01). This Terminal Block has 5 connectors (1 – 5 from left to right). For a nicer appearance, it is fixed with polished stainless pan-head screws (M5), the connector bolts are covered with cap nuts, and the leading wires are hold in black (02). The schematic diagram can be found in the Service Manual DODGE 59 Supplement, here a part restricted to the front lights (03). The connections on my car are originally slightly different then shown in the manual (04). They could not be interchanged because of the exact length of the wires. There is a nice repro of the terminal connector available, at a reasonable price (05). The connections of the terminal block I added as well in PDF. - SERGE -
(01 Terminal Location.jpg) (02 Terminal Block.jpg) (03 Front Light Schematic.jpg) (04 Connections Terminal Block.jpg) (05 Connector Repro.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Terminal Location.jpg (118KB - 738 downloads) 02 Terminal Block.jpg (118KB - 706 downloads) 03 Front Light Schematic.jpg (91KB - 678 downloads) 04 Connections Terminal Block.jpg (77KB - 687 downloads) 05 Connector Repro.jpg (101KB - 692 downloads) 06 Connections Terminal Block.pdf (6KB - 717 downloads) | ||
Lancer Mike |
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Location: The Mile High City | outstanding, Serge - I always enjoy reading this thread. Your attention to detail and inventiveness is remarkable. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13050 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Always interesting to read Serges posts - careful work to enhance the car | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Push Buttons: When restoring the Push Buttons a time ago, I had to remove the old paint in the letters. All chemical way where to aggressive, I used a soft diluent to be cleaned with water. But this plastic is so “weak”, that not only the paint was removed, but as well the front was badly affected. I had to grind it down and then use letter sticker (01), protected by a transparent foil (02). Most Push Buttons are irreparably damaged by Finger Nails. It is very rare to find one with intact letters (03). Finally I found now a set in acceptable condition (04). This time I didn’t use any chemistry at all (05), cleaned them with a soft brass brush (06), and got them all quite nice (07). The paint for the letters (red as used for the Instuments) I applied locally with a needle, removed instantly the color around with a rubber scraper, and when dried grinded the front (08). To fix and center the caps I put some tape around (white), inserted again a protective transparent foil, and for a soft return I added an O-Ring over the cap (09). Now the Push Buttons look again as they should and are protected from Finger Nails: Clear letters and nice to look at. - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2015-04-24 3:12 AM (01 Push Buttons restored.jpg) (02 Sticked Letters.jpg) (03 Push Buttons Ross Roy.jpg) (04 Used Push Button.jpg) (05 Push Button Unrestored.jpg) (06 Brush-up Push Buttons.jpg) (07 Push Buttons AC brushed.jpg) (08 Grinding Front Rounded.jpg) (09 Push Button Assembly.jpg) (10 Push Button Unit Mounted.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Push Buttons restored.jpg (104KB - 734 downloads) 02 Sticked Letters.jpg (80KB - 736 downloads) 03 Push Buttons Ross Roy.jpg (117KB - 696 downloads) 04 Used Push Button.jpg (113KB - 730 downloads) 05 Push Button Unrestored.jpg (60KB - 720 downloads) 06 Brush-up Push Buttons.jpg (80KB - 719 downloads) 07 Push Buttons AC brushed.jpg (58KB - 707 downloads) 08 Grinding Front Rounded.jpg (90KB - 708 downloads) 09 Push Button Assembly.jpg (77KB - 754 downloads) 10 Push Button Unit Mounted.jpg (115KB - 739 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13050 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Lot of patience and love for the work at hand - those pushbuttons could'nt be any better. | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Six-Way Seat Adjuster Switch: By a single bar of the switch, all six positions of the seat can be adjusted (01). Forward - Backward (5 inches) Higher - Lower (2 inches) Tilt CW - CCW (18 degrees) (02). As the initial current of the seat adjustment is quite high, the contacts should be checked from time to time (03) (04). The color of the wires must be correct, the switch is folded down for rear view (05). Later I found another switch as spare part, mounted on a chrome bezel, as illustrated in the owners manual (06). This bezel should be on front side of the seat. To keep the nice golden emblem I put it reversed on the rear side - and it fits as it should be. The top view shows the mounting bracket and the power seat motor (07). The red main wire is connected after the circuit breaker located on the top lift switch, this as well the power windows. The chrome bezel is mounted with the two existing screws of the switch, thus easy to remove if one day dislike. But for now, a bit more chrome on my Convertible! (08) – SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2015-04-29 9:26 AM (01 Six-Way Power Switch.jpg) (02 Six-Way Seat Adjustments.jpg) (03 Contact Elements.jpg) (04 Power Switch Components.jpg) (05 Connections Rear View.jpg) (06 Six-Way Power Switch Owners Manual 25 .jpg) (07 Top View with Power Seat Motor.jpg) (08 Power Switch with Chrome Bezel.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Six-Way Power Switch.jpg (103KB - 706 downloads) 02 Six-Way Seat Adjustments.jpg (92KB - 737 downloads) 03 Contact Elements.jpg (67KB - 693 downloads) 04 Power Switch Components.jpg (82KB - 721 downloads) 05 Connections Rear View.jpg (102KB - 726 downloads) 06 Six-Way Power Switch Owners Manual 25 .jpg (121KB - 709 downloads) 07 Top View with Power Seat Motor.jpg (110KB - 725 downloads) 08 Power Switch with Chrome Bezel.jpg (116KB - 699 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Thank you very much Serge for this information. In my Letter I got a six way electric adjustable drivers seat as well. The switch looks different on a 1960 Mopar, but I assume the basic function is the same - one motor, three clutches.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2634 Location: Minor Hill, TN | Thank You for the 411 | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Dome Lamp: With time the plastic lens goes brown and burns out in the center, due to excessive heat by the bulb. This is already observable in the original brochure of the 1959 Dodge Convertible, burned lens zoomed right down (01). As these lenses are highly demanded, reproductions are available up to USD 80 a pair (02). A single NOS Dome Lamp Lens Imperial with crown insigna is offered for USD155 (03). To replace the lens, the fixing pins on the rear shell have to be bent out with the result that they mostly break off. Therefore break out one of the three pins for the lens can be removed, replace it by a soldered one, and grind a slot in the metal retainer. Now it can be fixed or removed anytime just by twisting (04). To avoid a newly deformation of the replaced lens by heat a LED, no longer then 35mm, is advised in replacement of the bulb (05). This special bulb has two terminals, plus and minus, the socket is isolated, means not grounded. One pin is connected to plus, the other pin to minus when the door switch is activated. As I could not find such a LED I had to do some “surgical” interventions: - Unsolder the two contacts and the four fixing points of the socket for removal (06). - Socket removed (07). As shown, one contact leads direct to the LED unit for a bright light, the other contact to the same point but over a resistor of 15 Ohm for a lower light. The ground (-) goes to the socket, as expected (07). - Connect the resistor to minus (for lower light), and cut out the cupper of the printed circuit board in order to disconnect the ground (08). - Resolder the socket on the LED unit as it was previously. The LED has become a direct replacement of the original bulb (09).
Now the dome lamp shows a brighter white light, without any burning of the plastic lens (10). - SERGE -
P.S. Numbering of the pictures corrected.
Edited by sermey 2015-05-03 9:08 PM (01 Brochure Dome Lamp.jpg) (02 NOS Dome Lamp Lense.jpg) (03 NOS Dome Lamp Lense Imperial.jpg) (04 Twist Rear Shell for Removal.jpg) (05 Comparison LED - Bulb.jpg) (06 Socket Removal.jpg) (07 Socket Removed.jpg) (08 Resistor on Minus and Ground Cut.jpg) (09 Modified LED Inserted.jpg) (10 Bright White Dome Light.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Brochure Dome Lamp.jpg (132KB - 733 downloads) 02 NOS Dome Lamp Lense.jpg (81KB - 678 downloads) 03 NOS Dome Lamp Lense Imperial.jpg (137KB - 675 downloads) 04 Twist Rear Shell for Removal.jpg (61KB - 684 downloads) 05 Comparison LED - Bulb.jpg (66KB - 715 downloads) 06 Socket Removal.jpg (91KB - 730 downloads) 07 Socket Removed.jpg (50KB - 676 downloads) 08 Resistor on Minus and Ground Cut.jpg (60KB - 712 downloads) 09 Modified LED Inserted.jpg (81KB - 742 downloads) 10 Bright White Dome Light.jpg (114KB - 666 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND |
Car Production Broadcast: My restored Car Production Broadcast I had already presented a time ago in the appropriate forum. In this thread here I just show HOW I did it, not must be the best way to go – but it works.
Scan the sheet with 1200dpi in precise vertical/horizontal orientation with Photoshop. It needs Win7 64-bit with at least 8MB RAM. The original scan is in the first layer named background (01). The layer 00 is a copy of the background in case of a disaster. . . . (01).
Create the next layers 01 – 06 for individual mastering, and freeze them from moving (02). The layer 01 is the background pattern of the sheet, sample taken in a clean segment in layer 00. Remember, this background in not a uniform color, thus a pattern! Next copy the selected items from layer 00 into the designated layers as shown in (02), ready there for clean and restore individually. If the result in a layer is not satisfactory, then just delete and re-copy it.
Examples of restored layers: Layer 02: Original Text with Grid brown (03). Layer 03: Original Typed Numbers black (04).
The typed numbers are not upgraded as they could be in order to keep their authentification. When all layers have been restored, merge all in one layer to stay fixed. This will be the final Car Production Broadcast Restored, saved here in a smaller resolution, as JPG-Picture (05), or 1 : 1 as PDF-File with 144dpi (because of the 250k limitation) (08).
The letters and the grid can as well be reproduced instead restored. Here the letters then are taken from the font library (Arial, Bold, Smooth, Color RGB: 207-113-46) and the lines are created by construction, all in Photoshop. In direct comparison to the original in the left, the difference is hardly visible (06). The Original Typed Numbers remains as before (04). Each single number can be selected, copied and inserted individually for another specific sheet (07).
Now, any missing Car Production Broadcast can be re-created by anyone. Happy printing! - SERGE -
(01 Car Production Broadcast Scanned in.jpg) (02 Layers Listing.jpg) (03 Original Text with Grid.jpg) (04 Original Typed Numbers black.jpg) (05 Car Production Broadcast Restored.jpg) (06 Comparison Original Text - New Font.jpg) (07 Car Production Broadcast New Texted.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Car Production Broadcast Scanned in.jpg (123KB - 755 downloads) 02 Layers Listing.jpg (118KB - 682 downloads) 03 Original Text with Grid.jpg (119KB - 710 downloads) 04 Original Typed Numbers black.jpg (40KB - 680 downloads) 05 Car Production Broadcast Restored.jpg (132KB - 719 downloads) 06 Comparison Original Text - New Font.jpg (122KB - 700 downloads) 07 Car Production Broadcast New Texted.jpg (137KB - 709 downloads) 08 Car Production Broadcast Restored 144dpi.pdf (120KB - 738 downloads) | ||
ToMopar |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1159 Location: D-70199 Heslach | Serge, It's great to "restore" all the history what comes with the car. Great work! | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | PM sent (very-soon!) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | License Plate Lamp: For a brighter light the bulb can as well be replaced by a LED. The lamp unit is fixed with a bracket (01) (02). The heat of the bulb, consuming 5W, causes the lens to melt partially (03). As replacement I used the same LED as for the dome lights. The contacts here are brigded for a full power (04). The fixing pins on the LED can be left as is. Just bent out the tab, on the concerned side of the lamp socket, for turning the LED in, view one side and the other side (05). Now the license plate shines brighter at lower power consumption, and without melting the lens anymore (06). - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2015-05-20 6:15 AM (01 Lamp Unit.jpg) (02 Lamp Unit Rear View.jpg) (03 Melted Lens.jpg) (04 Bulb 5W - LED.jpg) (05 Lamp Socket Bent.jpg) (06 Bright License Plate.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Lamp Unit.jpg (72KB - 708 downloads) 02 Lamp Unit Rear View.jpg (84KB - 678 downloads) 03 Melted Lens.jpg (71KB - 717 downloads) 04 Bulb 5W - LED.jpg (88KB - 669 downloads) 05 Lamp Socket Bent.jpg (80KB - 673 downloads) 06 Bright License Plate.jpg (100KB - 665 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hell! It looks wonderful. Thank you very much Serge. Did you know, there are LED lamps available with a BA15d socket with to connection points?
Kind regards,
Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2015-05-20 6:08 AM | ||
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