Just picked this one up today. She's powered by a turbocharged slant 6. This car has been for sale for quite some time. Finally came down to earth on the price.

I've been digging around the 'net a bit and found that if the powervalve is not receiving vacuum from the correct location it can go lean in part throttle conditions. This may be the problem... I do agree with everything you said about running the drawthrough setup. It's definitely not ideal, but for now it is what it is and I'll tinker a bit until I convince myself that it's not going to work for me

BTW, your attachment didn't come across properly.

It has a 4 speed manual tranny with OD. Not sure on the model, as I have only run Mopar auto trannies until now. I'll take some pictures of the engine. Right now I only have the one that was part of the ad for the car.

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ttotired - 2013-03-20 4:27 AM Just buy a cheap gps Come in handy anyway My guess on the speedo is because of the later tranny, the cable wouldnt fit anymore

Could be. I haven't checked in the dash, but the cable is connected to the tranny.

I run an app called Ulysses which uses the cell phone GPS to calculate speed, trip distance, and more. Very nice app. You can be in any program on the phone, and the speed will show up in a small round area of the screen, so there is no need to keep the Ulysses app open all the time.

The only "problem" is the lack of self cancelling turn signals which has had me driving down the road with my turn signal on more times than I care to admit.. Sooner or later I'll get used to it!

With the help of the guys on the Slant 6 forum I figured out why it was dying when coming to a stop after a long cruise. The carb adapter I have had two big unused ports on it. I had no idea what they were for. Turns out they are for coolant to flow through so the fuel mixture is heated before the turbo which helps keep the fuel atomized. I hooked up water to the ports and haven't had a problem since. Here are a few photos of the updated setup: Here's a few pics of the updated setup:

I just finished up with my Scarebird front disc brake conversion. Of course nothing ever goes as planned when working on a 50 year old car. #1 I couldn't reuse the stock backing plate mounting bolts because the Dart uses Lockheed brakes which use longer bolts than the other Forward Looks. Picked up some grade 8 hardware. Problem solved. #2 I bought a small bore master cylinder for manual disc brakes at MATS. The master leaks and won't pressure the system Wanted to be sure that the problem wasn't elsewhere in the system, so I bought a 1" bore master at O'Reillys for less than 40.00. No problem now. The system holds pressure, the problem was the rebuilt master.

The Scarebird bearing spacer is machined to very close tolerances and not a slip fit in my application. My work around for that was to heat the spacer in the oven for 10 minutes at 350. After that it slipped right on. 

My drums were out of round, causing the brake pedal to pulsate. That's almost gone, but I can still feel it a little bit from the rear brakes. The pulsation is barely perceptible now. The front end used to shudder when I applied the brakes hard. Now it just does exactly what it's supposed to.  Night and day difference between the drums and the discs.

Time for an update... The clutch went out on the slant six and I used that as my opportunity to start my engine swap. I am having a 318 poly built by Gary Pavlovich. Dual quad, .525 lift cam 390ci, should be fun! Since owning the car I have restored the trunk, and am now working on a rest of the engine compartment. Everthing from the firewall forward. I also pulled the dash to restore, and rewire the entire car. I want to make this car as reliable as it is good looking.

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 I enjoyed driving it with the slant 6 even though it never ran well. It was a hell of a challenge to make that thing go down the road with it's 2.9x gears. It was dead before it came on the boost.

I had tinkered with the setup since I bought it. It ran way better, but it still wanted to stall after a long drive. It wasn't reliable at all.

I had pulled the turbo and checked everything external. Everything had been tweaked, and prodded, and it all ran great going down the road, but when it came to an idle it died. 

When I pulled everthing apart for the motor swap I looked inside the J pipe for the first time. What I saw could very well have been the cause of the problems. They took one pipe and inserted it into the other about 1/2" - 3"4 deep. It should have been butt welded. They created a huge restriction. To make matters worse, they had an EGT sensor in there that must be 1" in diameter and that takes up MOST of the space in the J pipe. 

I just shock my head, and set it all aside.

I bought the car with a V8 swap in mind, just took a bit longer than expected.

Nice site I'll keep an eye out for updates  ...................

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