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Pulling brake drums Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Brakes, Wheels and Tires | Message format |
cdstl |
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Regular Posts: 73 | Hey guys, (Hub Puller.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Hub Puller.jpg (1KB - 218 downloads) | ||
finsruskw |
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Expert Posts: 2289 Location: Eastern Iowa | Yes, That's what it is for. | ||
cdstl |
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Regular Posts: 73 | Very good, Thanks. I'm pretty familiar with 60s Mopars, this is my first one from the 50s. I figured that I could pull the fronts with this thing but I was sure about the rears. | ||
58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1740 Location: Alaska | The fronts don't need a puller. If they won't slip off after the bearing nut is removed, the brake shoes are too tight or stuck. This can be very common with a car that has set for many years. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | cdstl - 2021-12-28 7:37 AM Very good, Thanks. I'm pretty familiar with 60s Mopars, this is my first one from the 50s. I figured that I could pull the fronts with this thing but I was sure about the rears. The fronts do not need a puller, just removal of the spindle nut and maybe backing off of the brake shoe adjustment. Remember that in the 1950's Mopars had left and right hand thread wheel bolts/studs and nuts. LH on the left side (righty loosey, lefty tighty) and RH on the right side (lefty loosey, righty tighty) The rear drums are a whole different kettle of fish because they fit on a the tapered axle shaft with a key-way. The type of drum puller you have is correct for the job. Doesn't mean that the drum won't fight you though. The kitten is optional: Edited by 56D500boy 2021-12-28 11:37 AM | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6502 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/fairbanks/puller.html Edited by mstrug 2021-12-28 11:45 AM | ||
57desoto |
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Expert Posts: 1488 Location: New Castle PA | Be sure to put the nut back onto the end of the axle (as in the picture above) before you begin using the puller, or by hammering the "handle" you'll drive the shaft in and split the axle end. | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6502 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Les Fairbank puller: (les fairbanks puller.jpg) Attachments ---------------- les fairbanks puller.jpg (42KB - 186 downloads) | ||
samstrader |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 446 Location: Beaumont TX | I have the exact same puller for my rear drums you show in first post of this thread and it works good. But it takes some pretty hard pulling to get them to break lose. Sometimes there are some SnapOn pullers on ebay for pretty cheap. One time I found one for $65 but it sold so fast I couldn't buy it. | ||
Fireflite56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 341 Location: Wisconsin | I second the Les Fairbanks puller. It's the best puller for the Forward Look drums in my opinion. | ||
Richbo |
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Veteran Posts: 242 Location: 33844 | I bought a puller off ebay , and had the option of buying extra legs to pull on all 5 studs !! | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9681 Location: So. Cal | Yep, I purchased the Snap-on puller and then purchased extra legs for it to mount to all 5, and I've never had a drum give me any trouble with that. I always get it off very quickly. The only issue I have had is damaging the axle threads when it's really stuck. This is even with putting the axle nut on it. I may need to extend the nut out a little more, but then it will only be pushing on the nut, which doesn't sound like a good idea. | ||
Richbo |
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Veteran Posts: 242 Location: 33844 | I ground the pullers push-bolt down a little so it would fit inside the extended axle-nut. And put a bit of grease on the end . | ||
FURY |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1049 Location: Auckland, New Zealand. | These Les Fairbanks pullers are excellent! Takes all the hassle out of the job. Used mine last week. mstrug - 2021-12-31 1:20 AM Les Fairbank puller: | ||
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