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 Power Steering Project Related: Is this the way a "Standard" piping flare and a JIC fittng fit?Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911     Location: Lower Mainland BC | . I am currently trying to adapt Gary S's (Wayfarer's) 354 hemi Saginaw PS pump bracket to work on my 315 hemi (and 315 poly's if this works). One of the issues is the clearance limitations where the high pressure port on the Saginaw pump is located, necessitating the use of 90 deg JIC fitting. So far, for me, this means a No. 6 JIC fitting which I think translates to a 3/8" tubing fitting. For fun today, I purchased a 40" piece of pre-flared 3/8" tubing (comes with female tube nuts that I won't use). I compared the flare of the tubing to the JIC fitting and I am now confused/perplexed regarding how poorly they seem to mate (male JIC to female double flare). Am I missing something or is that the way it is?? Photos: Edited by 56D500boy 2023-10-13 11:38 PM (DodgeTruck318PSPumpWithMetricBanjoFittingxNo6JIC_Detail.jpg) (3EightsFlaredTubingComparedToNo6JIC_Overall.jpg) (3EightsFlaredTubingComparedToNo6JIC_Close.jpg) (3EightsFlaredTubingComparedToNo6JIC_Touching.jpg) Attachments ----------------  DodgeTruck318PSPumpWithMetricBanjoFittingxNo6JIC_Detail.jpg (147KB - 58 downloads) 3EightsFlaredTubingComparedToNo6JIC_Overall.jpg (146KB - 69 downloads) 3EightsFlaredTubingComparedToNo6JIC_Close.jpg (145KB - 61 downloads) 3EightsFlaredTubingComparedToNo6JIC_Touching.jpg (147KB - 63 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9681  Location: So. Cal | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Thanks Nathan. I bought the PA brand tubing to mock-up a 3/8" line from the "new" Saginaw PS pump to the Coaxial steering box. I intend to use Ultra-Bend tubing but at its price of about $10 per ft, I thought I would try the steel tubing at about $14 for 40" just to play with. That said I didn't realize that the JIC fittings that I will have to use were 37 deg so your answer provided me with an education about JIC. I guess I will need to get something like this: Summit Racing™ 37 Degree Flare Tool Sets SUM-900311  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900311 https://surrauto.com/kits/ultrabend/  | ||
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| 58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1740  Location: Alaska | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Okay. The light bulb is slowly starting to come on and illuminate my brain cavity. Echo Echo Echo  I had forgotten that when I bought that 90 deg M16 ORB x No.6 JIC fitting, the fellow also sold me a 3/8" tubing nut and a sleeve. (The sleeve actually showed in the photos above when I used it to hold up the 3/8" SAE 45 deg flared tube - DUH). Anyway, I tested the sleeve against the JIC fitting and naturally it fits perfectly.  That said, I am not sure how it is supposed to work with the 3/8" tubing.  Somebody (Nathan, Del, Ron, Rolland ??) want to school me? (Please) *OR* point me to Remedial Tubing School Edited by 56D500boy 2023-10-14 7:15 PM (No6JICWithSleeveTubingNutAndTube.jpg) (No6JICWithSleeve_PerfectFit.jpg) (No6JICWithSleeveTubingNutAndTube_Together.jpg) Attachments ---------------- No6JICWithSleeveTubingNutAndTube.jpg (147KB - 57 downloads) No6JICWithSleeve_PerfectFit.jpg (148KB - 59 downloads) No6JICWithSleeveTubingNutAndTube_Together.jpg (148KB - 55 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Just Googled and answered my own question: "What is the function of the sleeve on a flared tube fitting? The Role of JIC Fittings: What They Are, Advantages, and ... The seal in JIC fittings is created through the metal-to-metal contact of the finished surface of the fitting nose and the inside of the flared tubing. The fitting sleeve supports the connection between the fitting nose and the inside of the flared tubing by distributing the compression during assembly." May 7, 2020 Bottomline: Still need to make 37 deg double flares. (Don't own a 37 deg flaring kit (yet)) Edited by 56D500boy 2023-10-14 7:25 PM (Flare Tube Assembly Render.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Flare Tube Assembly Render.jpg (10KB - 70 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Del S (Dels56) sent me this diagram. It definitely shows how the sleeve and tubing nut combine to push the 37 deg flare onto the nose of the JIC end of a combination ORB/JIC fitting. Edited by 56D500boy 2023-10-15 11:23 AM (JICTubingNutAndSleeveInAction_withTube.jpg) Attachments ---------------- JICTubingNutAndSleeveInAction_withTube.jpg (99KB - 67 downloads) | ||
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| 58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1740 Location: Alaska | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 58coupe - 2023-10-15 8:56 AM I have a question for you. Are you planning to run a steel line for the pressure side from the pump to the steering box? This is not a good idea if you are as the vibration and movement of the engine will cause that line to fail. Understood. I *was* vaguely thinking of all steel (UltraBend) tubing (with some kind of curlicue to take the movement) *BUT* now I am going back to thinking at least part of the line needs to be rubber. I don't have much clearance between the back of the Saginaw PS pump and the head/block so I need to have a 90 deg JIC fitting on the PS pump, then 3/8" steel tubing going straight up, then a 90 deg tubing bend, then some rubber high pressure hose, then coming down with a crimped fitting to the JIC/ORB fitting in the PS gear box. It needs to end up something like this (OE): But it starts off tight, regardless of 90 deg swivel fitting or banjo: (DodgeTruck318PSPumpWithMetricXJICfitting_Installed_OldPump.jpg) (DodgeTruck318PSPumpWithMetricXJICfitting_Installed.jpg) (DodgeTruck318PSPumpWithMetricBanjoFittingxNo6JIC.jpg) Attachments ---------------- DodgeTruck318PSPumpWithMetricXJICfitting_Installed_OldPump.jpg (147KB - 62 downloads) DodgeTruck318PSPumpWithMetricXJICfitting_Installed.jpg (146KB - 60 downloads) DodgeTruck318PSPumpWithMetricBanjoFittingxNo6JIC.jpg (145KB - 53 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2023-10-15 9:40 AM Understood. I *was* vaguely thinking of all steel (UltraBend) tubing (with some kind of curlicue to take the movement) *BUT* now I am going back to thinking at least part of the line needs to be rubber. This is what I am thinking. I have the details of the crimp fittings but I am too lazy at this point to annotate the sketch with them. (FirstCutAtBuildingAPSHoseForSaginawPSPumpInstall_Annotated_small.jpg) Attachments ---------------- FirstCutAtBuildingAPSHoseForSaginawPSPumpInstall_Annotated_small.jpg (120KB - 63 downloads) | ||
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| dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 353 | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Thanks for those comments Del. I probably need to read (and re-read) that again until it sinks in. In the meantime, I went to my favourite local hydraulic hose and fitting store and bought one of the major hose ends, 2 ft of hose and another -AN tubing nut and sleeve. When I got home, I cut (butchered) a 13" section of the 40" 3/8" tubing that I bought last week. Bent the last 3 or 4 inches of the 13" piece to a 90. Then I added the tubing nuts and -AN sleeves and flared the ends at the incorrect 45 deg (I am just shooting for proof of concept, not sealing 800 psi of PS fluid.) I won't actually use that piece of tubing in the real application. The hose is 3/8ths EATON hydraulic hose, good for 5000 psi (so 800 psi will be fine) I did NOT buy that pricey 90 deg hose crimp to No. 6 long drop fitting just yet. I did get an agreement that they would crimp the hose fittings if I signed a waver (re: liability of using the hose for a power steering application - they are NOT responsible). Next: Testing that 13", 90 bend on the PS in the car to see what I need to modify (probably something ) This: Edited by 56D500boy 2023-10-16 11:28 PM (FirstCutAtBuildingAPSHoseForSaginawPSPumpInstall_RealComponents_Apart.jpg) (FirstCutAtBuildingAPSHoseForSaginawPSPumpInstall_RealComponents_Together.jpg) (FirstCutAtBuildingAPSHoseForSaginawPSPumpInstall_RealComponents_Annotated.jpg) Attachments ---------------- FirstCutAtBuildingAPSHoseForSaginawPSPumpInstall_RealComponents_Apart.jpg (142KB - 61 downloads) FirstCutAtBuildingAPSHoseForSaginawPSPumpInstall_RealComponents_Together.jpg (149KB - 64 downloads) FirstCutAtBuildingAPSHoseForSaginawPSPumpInstall_RealComponents_Annotated.jpg (59KB - 57 downloads) | ||
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| dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 353 | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | dels56 - 2023-10-17 9:01 AM Looking Good, but a bit overkill on the Hydraulic Hose. Working pressure of 5000, burst pressure @ 4:1 = 20,000 PSI.. Del Del: This was at New Line. I told them that I only needed something for 1500 psi and the 5000 psi EATON hose is what they sold me. At $5.00 or so a foot and I asked for 2 ft, I didn't really care that it was overkill or not. Yeh, "lawnmower". That's the ticket. (in my best Jon Lovitz/Tommy Flanagan voice) Yeh, that's the ticket. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLRKhdQnd-k (YehThatsTheTicket.jpg) Attachments ---------------- YehThatsTheTicket.jpg (140KB - 60 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . This wasn't supposed to be a thread, just a question and answers about JIC 37 vs normal 45 flare but it somehow morphed in a full thread. (Sorry about that) In the short run, I am just going to add to it. Today, I tried my eyeballed bent tubing on the "Mock-up" pump and then installed the pump back on the engine (sort of - bracket issues still need to be resolved). Initially I tried the 90 deg and banjo fittings in both my mock-up PS pump and my "new" Rock Auto pump. There were issues with the new pump and the banjo fitting so I went with the 90 deg fitting in the mock-up pump. Turns out that was a mistake. That created clearance problems between the discharge tubing and the head. Hmmm.... It was also clear that my first guess at the length of the "vertical" leg of the tubing was too much. Needed to shorten the tubing. So for round two, I used the banjo fitting because it brings the pump discharge closer to the pump body and eliminates the tubing to head clearance problem. I also shortened the vertical leg by 4". In retrospect, I should have only shortened it by 3" to get the horizontal hose run into a better location (more space). This is what I did today, starting with the 90 deg fitting and the long vertical leg, followed by comparison of the 90 deg leg and the banjo fitting and then re-installation with the banjo fitting and the shortened vertical leg pipe. Who knows what I will change tomorrow? (its all trial and error here kiddies ) Edited by 56D500boy 2023-10-18 2:18 AM (FirstTrialWithRidgidTubing_Oops_TooLong.jpg) (MockUpPSPumpWith_90DegFitting.jpg) (MockUpPSPumpWith_BanjoFitting.jpg) (MockUpPSPumpWith_BanjoFittingAndShorterPipe.jpg) Attachments ---------------- FirstTrialWithRidgidTubing_Oops_TooLong.jpg (149KB - 57 downloads) MockUpPSPumpWith_90DegFitting.jpg (148KB - 63 downloads) MockUpPSPumpWith_BanjoFitting.jpg (148KB - 59 downloads) MockUpPSPumpWith_BanjoFittingAndShorterPipe.jpg (146KB - 61 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Might as well carry on (I am getting to the quitting point - for now - anyway). Did another trial with the 3/8" steel tubing which I called "Mk 3" In review: Mk1 was me just guessing the lengths of the two legs. I over estimated the needed length of the vertical leg. Mk2 was trying to fix Mk1 by cutting 4" off the vertical leg, leaving the horizontal leg alone. Mk3 (today) included cutting a new piece of tubing and redoing with the vertical leg about 1" longer than Mk2 and the horizontal leg about 3/4" shorter than Mk2. In general it is better. *BUT* I really FUBAR'd the 90 bend. I was just working with a 12" length and when I tried to bend it, it just kinked at the bend. Good thing I am only trying to get the geometry right. I think I got the vertical leg about right. I think next time I will try to make the horizontal leg a tiny bit longer. I just want it long enough to I can make and attach bracket from the tubing to the closest valve cover bolt, to stabilize the tubing, letting the rubber leg take care of the engine twisting, etc. From today (and yes, if you want to tell me what I did wrong with the bend please do (but be gentle)) (Mk2TrialTubeOverGraphPaper_RedIsMk3.jpg) (Mk3TrialTubeOverGraphPaper_BladkIsMk2.jpg) (Mk2and3OnGraphPaper.jpg) (Mk3PSTubing Trial_Unlifted.jpg) (Mk3PSTubing Trial_LiftedTOOmuch.jpg) (Mk3ShowingProximityToValveCoverBolt.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Mk2TrialTubeOverGraphPaper_RedIsMk3.jpg (146KB - 63 downloads) Mk3TrialTubeOverGraphPaper_BladkIsMk2.jpg (148KB - 59 downloads) Mk2and3OnGraphPaper.jpg (149KB - 63 downloads) Mk3PSTubing Trial_Unlifted.jpg (149KB - 75 downloads) Mk3PSTubing Trial_LiftedTOOmuch.jpg (148KB - 58 downloads) Mk3ShowingProximityToValveCoverBolt.jpg (148KB - 65 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Bought a better tubing bender this AM from a local source (similar bender at Harbor Freight for less money and Summit Racing for more money - both require shipping to me so local was better for me). Bent my last piece of 3/8" Poly Armour steel tubing. The bender makes a much tighter bend than my original Mk.1 and Mk.2 (which was just Mk. 1 with a shortened vertical leg). I did well with the bend and the flaring but I F'k'd up with the horizontal tubing nut. I put it on backwards (and didn't check my work before I flared that end - DUH ) Oh well, moving on to Nickel Copper anyway for the next trials, etc. Still need to pick up a 37 deg Kit. Probably from Summit Racing. Can NOT find one locally (or at Harbor Freight). So Mk 4 might be a bit too tall vertical and maybe a bit too long horizontally. Definitely should be able to anchor to the valve cover bolt. The bender I bought and then Mk. 4 (MasterCraftTubingBender.jpg) (Mk4Attempt_SlightlyLongerLegs.jpg) (Mk4InPlaceSortOf_MaybeTooLong.jpg) Attachments ---------------- MasterCraftTubingBender.jpg (106KB - 55 downloads) Mk4Attempt_SlightlyLongerLegs.jpg (147KB - 54 downloads) Mk4InPlaceSortOf_MaybeTooLong.jpg (148KB - 60 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Ran out of 3/8" steel tubing (I had bought a 40" length of Poly Armour and by the end of Mk. 4 I had used it all up). Bought a length of 3/8" Copper Nickel tubing. Much more expensive. Very easy to bend. Maybe too easy. Easy to do a single flare. While I am waiting for my new Summit Racing 37 deg flaring kit to arrive to work with my JIC fittings, I made one more trial (Mk5) with 45 flares. Mk5 leg lengths were basically the same as Mk4 but this time I actually got BOTH tubing nuts on correctly before I did the 45 flare. So I could finally add the 3/8" hose x No. 6 JIC fitting and see where the hose lands near the Coaxial steering box. Based on the thickness of the crimp fitting I am considering running the horizontal leg of the tube more rearward to the crimp and JIC Nut end up in a pocket above the upper control room. This would give engine more room to rock without banging the hose into the valve cover and/or fender apron. At the coaxial steering gear box end, I am wondering whether a simple crimp to Female JIC would work. More figuring to come. Today: (Mk5AttemptVerySimilarToMk4ButInNickelCopper.jpg) (Mk5WithHoseFittingAndHose_2.jpg) (Mk5WithHoseCloseToOEJIC4Fitting.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Mk5AttemptVerySimilarToMk4ButInNickelCopper.jpg (146KB - 72 downloads) Mk5WithHoseFittingAndHose_2.jpg (149KB - 62 downloads) Mk5WithHoseCloseToOEJIC4Fitting.jpg (149KB - 57 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2023-10-22 6:51 PM Based on the thickness of the crimp fitting I am considering running the horizontal leg of the tube more rearward to the crimp and JIC Nut end up in a pocket above the upper control room. This would give engine more room to rock without banging the hose into the valve cover and/or fender apron. At the coaxial steering gear box end, I am wondering whether a simple crimp to Female JIC would work. More figuring to come. Still waiting on the Summit Racing 37 flare kit to arrive. So what to do, what to do. Okay, make a Mk6 hard tube with the horizontal leg about 2.75" longer and see how that works out. Might work. (ComparisonOfTheLongLegMk6ToTheShortLegMk5.jpg) (Mk6MetalTubeJICToCrimpAndRubberHose.jpg) (Mk6MetalTubeWithRubberHoseNearCoaxialGearBox.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ComparisonOfTheLongLegMk6ToTheShortLegMk5.jpg (143KB - 61 downloads) Mk6MetalTubeJICToCrimpAndRubberHose.jpg (148KB - 64 downloads) Mk6MetalTubeWithRubberHoseNearCoaxialGearBox.jpg (148KB - 64 downloads) | ||
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| 22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 655 Location: Finland | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Thanks for the suggestions Ralf. I am still waiting on the Summit Racing 37 deg flare kit so I worked on a bracket today. The main bracket material is a metal strap normally used to hold 1" (25 mm) metal electrical conduit to walls, etc. The other component is a rubber insulated cable strap, or in this case a 3/8" (9 mm) tubing strap. I also got the final bits (2 piece) to land the hose onto the Coaxial steering gear box with a 45 deg fitting. Regarding the bracket, the vertical leg is too tall and the "foot" needs some shaping to fit into a niche in the hemi valve cover and a bigger hole. Both modifications will happen tomorrow (I hope). This: Edited by 56D500boy 2023-10-25 2:43 AM (BracketAndClampAnd45degSolutions_2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- BracketAndClampAnd45degSolutions_2.jpg (147KB - 65 downloads) | ||
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| local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | local2Ed - 2023-10-25 5:35 AM I'm not seeing the reason to make the change. Zeke: I want to show off my D500 double-rocker (aka "hemi head") engine that is currently hidden, at least on the driver's side, by the close-coupled Generator-PS pump system and the Power Brake vacuum tank, etc. This will entail installing an alternator down low(ish) on the passenger side, a PS pump down low on the driver's side and a new PB system. I have worked out the alternator and PB systems for the most part. The last system to get figured out is the PS pump. I hate this mess: | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | |||
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| local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2023-10-24 11:06 PM Regarding the bracket, the vertical leg is too tall and the "foot" needs some shaping to fit into a niche in the hemi valve cover and a bigger hole. Both modifications will happen tomorrow (I hope). Modifications made: "foot" shaped to fit into valve cover niche, hole enlarged to accommodate valve cover bolt, vertical leg trimmed down and re-drilled for cable/tubing clamp. Installed (not easy with the tubing in place) but it took some time. After I took the photo below, I realized that I had failed to consider the movement of the tubing when the belt is tightened (it raises the tubing up). Hence there will be a Mk2 tubing bracket and it will be slotted. I can see the need for a "Tee" bolt (which I don't have). Still, some progress. (Mk1TubingStabilizationBracket.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Mk1TubingStabilizationBracket.jpg (145KB - 59 downloads) | ||
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| 22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 655 Location: Finland | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2023-10-25 5:30 PM After I took the photo below, I realized that I had failed to consider the movement of the tubing when the belt is tightened (it raises the tubing up). Hence there will be a Mk2 tubing bracket and it will be slotted. I can see the need for a "Tee" bolt (which I don't have). Thanks for your comments Ralf. I am at the very edge of the quitting cliff so as long as I make some progress, I will forge stubbornly onward. I did a quick sketch of a slotted Mk2 bracket concept and then realized that I could do a mock-up in cereal box cardboard with a 1/4 x 20 (or so) bolt and wing nut that I had handy. So 10 minutes later, I was looking at this: (There are still issues to be worked out but at least something like this will be adjustable to accommodate the movement of the PS pump during the tightening of the drive belt) Edited by 56D500boy 2023-10-26 3:42 PM (Mk2TubingStabilizationBracketMockUp_Up.jpg) (Mk2TubingStabilizationBracketMockUp_Down.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Mk2TubingStabilizationBracketMockUp_Up.jpg (149KB - 54 downloads) Mk2TubingStabilizationBracketMockUp_Down.jpg (149KB - 50 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Finally Picked up my Summit Racing 37 deg Flare kit. Can't say that I am impressed. Seems like the "hole" (in 2 parts) for the 3/8ths tubing isn't right. With steel tubing, it definitely egged (ovalled) the tubing. This caused my first trial to split the steel at the edge. The second try was a bit better but it was still oval. Then I tried the copper-nickel tubing which is much softer. Still ovalled but the pointy bit seemed to round out the flare. Here is a raw comparison of two steel tubing flares (45 deg) and one Cu-Ni 37 deg flare. The first close up is steel tubing with the pre-made 45 deg double flare that comes with the tubing (with male fittings) The second close up is steel tubing with a 45 deg single flare that I did the other day The third close up is the Cu-Ni tubing with the 37 deg flare that I just did after lunch. I guess that is is better than the 45 deg flares. I will use the 37 flare kit when I finalize things but I have read that a 45 deg flare on a Cu-Ni tube can be made to work and seal using the 37 deg tubing ferrule to push the flare tight onto the JIC fitting. Or so they say.... (SummitRacing37DegFlareKit.jpg) (JICNo6Fitting&3_8thsFlares.jpg) (JICNo6FittingWith45DegDoubleFlare.jpg) (JICNo6FtgWithSingle45Flare.jpg) (JICNo6FtgWithSingle37Flare.jpg) Attachments ---------------- SummitRacing37DegFlareKit.jpg (144KB - 66 downloads) JICNo6Fitting&3_8thsFlares.jpg (147KB - 56 downloads) JICNo6FittingWith45DegDoubleFlare.jpg (146KB - 64 downloads) JICNo6FtgWithSingle45Flare.jpg (148KB - 57 downloads) JICNo6FtgWithSingle37Flare.jpg (149KB - 64 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Or maybe something like this using Earl's style braid hoses and AN fittings (to attach to my JIC fittings) *IF* I can get the hose negotiate that first big 90 deg bend without kinking it (???) Edited by 56D500boy 2023-10-31 5:38 PM (BraidedHoseAndANfittingOption_1.jpg) (BraidedHoseAndANfittingOption_2.jpg) (BraidedHoseAndANfittingOption_3.jpg) Attachments ---------------- BraidedHoseAndANfittingOption_1.jpg (147KB - 61 downloads) BraidedHoseAndANfittingOption_2.jpg (132KB - 57 downloads) BraidedHoseAndANfittingOption_3.jpg (144KB - 62 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2023-10-31 2:35 PM *IF* I can get the hose negotiate that first big 90 deg bend without kinking it Subsequently, I remembered that I still had an unused PEX water pipe 90 deg bend "brace" that might prove useful for this project. (Probably with some modification ) Edited by 56D500boy 2023-10-31 8:18 PM (BraidedHoseAndANfittingOption_4.jpg) Attachments ---------------- BraidedHoseAndANfittingOption_4.jpg (146KB - 57 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . I inserted the straight fitting into the braided hose without the ferrule and tightened the nut. Then I installed the braided hose on the PS pump with the JIC 6 banjo fitting and ran the loose end over towards the Coaxial steering box for a trial fit. There is a bit of interference with the AN fitting at the pump end but that just meant clocking the banjo fitting a tiny bit. I tried the hose with and without that PEX 90 deg brace and decided that the brace probably won't be needed. I simulated moving the PS pump to tighten the drive belt and the braided hose lapped it up. There won't be issues. Just connect it at the PS end and the Coaxial steering gear box end and let the hose in between float, unrestrained. At least that is my thought at the moment. (The hard pipe bracket that I was contemplating is very close, maybe too close to ignore) All in all, way simpler that hard pipe, crimped fittings and rubber PS hose (after I spent a considerable amount of money trying to get that to work) (BraidedHoseLeavingJICFittingAtPump.jpg) (BraidedHoseNearBracket.jpg) (BraidedHoseHeadingToCoaxialBox.jpg) (BraidedHoseNearCoaxialBox.jpg) Attachments ---------------- BraidedHoseLeavingJICFittingAtPump.jpg (148KB - 56 downloads) BraidedHoseNearBracket.jpg (147KB - 52 downloads) BraidedHoseHeadingToCoaxialBox.jpg (148KB - 55 downloads) BraidedHoseNearCoaxialBox.jpg (148KB - 55 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Forgot to take this photo yesterday, showing the connection between the Performance World Earl's style braided hose and hose fitting attached to the JIC 6 banjo fitting on the Saginaw PS Pump (mock-up pump). There is a slight amount of interference between the PS pump return pipe and the braided hose fitting. Edited by 56D500boy 2023-11-03 7:40 PM (BraidedHoseAtBanjoFittngOnPSPump.jpg) Attachments ---------------- BraidedHoseAtBanjoFittngOnPSPump.jpg (148KB - 58 downloads) | ||
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