CONGRATULATIONS JOE!!! That must be a super feeling to finally be in motion. > 1) Braking. Without pumping the brake pedal, I > don't have any brakes. The parking brake works fine > (I think that is because it is linked to the > drivetrain and not the wheel axles) It is. There is a miniature brake drum at the back of the transmission. It is also adjustable - try not to rely on it too much... You're golden on that unless the driveshaft falls off. and I definitely > do not have any power assist -- I think that is the > booster since vacuum appears to be adequate. I can > pump the brake pedal a couple of times and the > brakes apply without any fade, but I have to pump > the brake pedal each time to get any stopping. Does > that mean I have not bled the brakes properly? Or, > perhaps, does it mean, I need to turn the adjusting > cams a bit farther for better, closer contact? Could be either. Your shoes should be VERY close to the drum. There is a complete guide with illustrations in the MASTER TECHNICIANS SERVICE CONFERENCE under 1959 called "new platform brakes" or something like that. That's a great place to start. Your symptoms are classical for air in the lines, but the fact that your pedal firms up quickly without being spongy means something too. I think your logic is sound, so adjusting and bleeding would definietly be the first place to start working. > 2) Steering. I have no power assist even though > the pump appears to be in good working order. When > it was off the car, the pulley turned easily and it > did not appear to be leaking fluid. Any suggestions > on how to diagnose this problem? In addition, there > is quite a bit of play in the steering wheel. Any > suggestions from the list on how to correct this > problem? No Power Assist: Hoses connected? Not blocked/pinched? -you did replace those crucial and probably old, prone to failure/fire hoses, right??? Fluid topped off? Need new pump? When you get it working, rotate wheel to both limits several times to expel air and recheck fluid level. Play: Loosen nut atop dome on steering box. Tighten bolt (paddle on top?) then back off to VERY light snugness. Hold paddle while retightening locking nut. This is common. Too tight and you'll wear your box out prematurely, you only get so much take-up in the slack and then you have to replace/rebuild. There should be 2 inches or so of slop in the wheel when the car is turned off. This will be masked by the power steering when running. When car is off, wheel will progressively load up as you flop it from side to side with a small amount (2"?) of play in the middle. No idea about the rest, but the dash lighting and the spikes "could" be related? Dunno though. ===== Kenyon Wills ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm