RE: IML: car starts when it wants
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RE: IML: car starts when it wants



I have been chasing a part-time no-start problem on my '82. I feel your pain. I'd have to say that with Mopars the most likely culprit is the starter. I second the mini-starter recommendation too. That being said, when did you take your coil reading? The way I understand it, the ballast resistor steps the voltage down to 6.3 or so to keep the coil alive. When cranking the ballast resistor is supposed to be bypassed and full battery voltage should travel through. That's why the #1 symptom of a bad ballast resisitor is that the car starts, but dies as soon as you let go of the key-that's when current goes through the resistor. On some cars this is done by bypassing the ballast resistor completely and on others there is a start-run ballast resistor with two settings. Not sure which one your '78 will have. So 6.3 volts is OK if it's in "run" position, but if it's while cranking it's not enough.

My cars no start problem is a heat soak condition, meaning if I let it cool it will start. Does your do that, or does it require charging overnight, etc? If the car always requires a boost to start, but always starts- I'd look to the battery and charging system. If it's intermittent, I'd look to the starter and ignition pick up.

From: "bom tie" <bomtie@xxxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: IML: car starts when it wants
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 13:18:21 -0500 (EST)




I have a 1978 NYB that has 50,000 miles or so on the clock. I have had the car for about 10 years and it has always needed a very healthy battery to start. I have not ran the car for the past 3 years, but now is the time. First changed ALL fluids and cleaned/sealed the tank. The car started with no problems. I started the car maybe 6 times over a 3 week time frame. Then I felt good about a test run. I start the car to turn the steering wheel as I push her to the door. I stop at the door turn the car off to bleed the brakes again just to be sure.
Bleed the brakes and then no start!
I attach a charger and try it from time to time. The engine was dragging as if out of time. I moved it a bit, but the dragging was erratic. The wire to the starter got hotter than I would have thought. The brown wire on the ballast was warm to the touch with the key "on" for only a few minutes.
After 2 hours on the charger it started. I then set the timming to 20 degrees- this is what the sticker on the car said. I drove the car for about 15 minutes (what a delight) and parked the car. I came back to it an hour later and NO START! Charged it overnight, started up still sounded like it was dragging.


1.The battery is 950 Amp 6 months old, do I need a 1000?
2.I have 6.3v at the coil is that enough?
3.Is the starter going out?
4.Is 20 degrees where this needs to be? What if run 2nd grade? Or just adjust it to where I dont ping going up a hill?
5. Charging system checks out
6. Computer mounted on breather, can they halfway go out?
7. Carb OR VAC issues???
I dont want to just start replacing parts,
Charles


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