Re: IML: car starts when it wants

["A. Foster" <monkeypuzzle1@xxxxxxx>]

Charles;
  I would recommend checking the electronic ignition control module and the
pick up coil in the distributor. Both of these devices can be checked with
an ohmmeter, I could give the procedure if needed, Napa stores also have a
tester for the E.I boxes behind the counter. A bad wire to the pick up coil
could cause a no start problem that comes and goes. The ballast resistor can
be easily checked with an ohmmeter as well. It is basically a wire wound
resistor that will either have continuity or won't.
 This is my experience with a 75' Chrysler Newport, as it turned out the
Ignition control module was dead, if yours is a lean burn car I wouldn't try
to guess other then perhaps checking all wiring, voltages, and resistances
specified in the shop manual. Also I would take the starter off and have it
checked out along with the relay, the car may also be due for a new timing
set.
Best Regards
Arran Foster
1954 Imperial Newport
Needing A Left Side Taillight bezel and other trim parts
1975 Chrysler Newport
Just fixed the 8 track player and radio. Removed 50 pounds of soil, sand and
gravel from the trunk and assorted crevices today.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "bom tie" <bomtie@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 10:18 AM
Subject: IML: car starts when it wants





I have a 1978 NYB that has 50,000 miles or so on the clock. I have had the
car for about 10 years and it has always needed a very healthy battery to
start. I have not ran the car for the past 3 years, but now is the time.
First changed ALL fluids and cleaned/sealed the tank. The car started with
no problems. I started the car maybe 6 times over a 3 week time frame. Then
I felt good about a test run. I start the car to turn the steering wheel as
I push her to the door. I stop at the door turn the car off to bleed the
brakes again just to be sure.
Bleed the brakes and then no start!
I attach a charger and try it from time to time. The engine was dragging as
if out of time. I moved it a bit, but the dragging was erratic. The wire to
the starter got hotter than I would have thought. The brown wire on the
ballast was warm to the touch with the key "on" for only a few minutes.
After 2 hours on the charger it started. I then set the timming to 20
degrees- this is what the sticker on the car said. I drove the car for about
15 minutes (what a delight) and parked the car. I came back to it an hour
later and NO START! Charged it overnight, started up still sounded like it
was dragging.

1.The battery is 950 Amp 6 months old, do I need a 1000?
2.I have 6.3v at the coil is that enough?
3.Is the starter going out?
4.Is 20 degrees where this needs to be? What if run 2nd grade? Or just
adjust it to where I dont ping going up a hill?
5. Charging system checks out
6. Computer mounted on breather, can they halfway go out?
7. Carb OR VAC issues???
I dont want to just start replacing parts,
Charles

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