Re: IML: engine break in

["mike sutton" <mikanlin62@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Use straight weight non detergent 30 wt oil for break in and for the sake of 
your engine, dont let it idle below 1500 or so for the first few minutes. 
If it gets a little bit hot, wont idle very well , runs rough ........thats 
all ok as long as it has oil pressure.  When it first fires up,  check the 
oil pressure and if its good, keep the engine running .

Id recommend installing a mechanical gauge for those first critical minutes 
of break in.  I would also highly recommend doing the engine priming thing 
that was posted about prior to first firing it off, pulling the spark plugs 
if they are installed and priming the engine while cranking it.

The reason you want the dinosaur oil is to let the rings and cylinder walls 
break in with respect to each other, the reason you dont want to let the 
engine run slow is to let the cam and lifters break in.  Slow running at 
that point will definetly wear the cam lobes and lifter faces, so dont let 
it idle slowly at first.

As far as synthetic oil causing a bearing to spin.....thats a new one to me. 
The bearings are held in place by a phenomenon called crush where the 
bearing shells are a fraction of a thousandth of an inch larger than the 
bore they are installed in which lends a sort of preload on the bearing. 
The torque of the bolts that hold the cap in place keep the cap where its 
sposed to be, but its the crush that holds the bearing.  If  synthetic oil 
was all it took to make a bearing spin, versus dinosaur oil, it would spin 
anyway.

Good luck

Mikey
62 Crown Coupe 




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