IML: 1973 brakes - Metering block Part II - need help or a spare part (help!!)

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

Been very distracted lately, but got back on the wagon
today and did more work.  Very refreshing.

The other night I had to go out and deal with a
particularly naughty tenant that is working their way
up to eviction, and I took the 64 out and drove it
over to the meeting.  It put me in a really good mood
when I got there, and an even better one on the way
back.  What a nice car!

========================

Today I made the third attempt at installing a
headlight door motor on the 1970.  The first two tries
yeilded 1972/73 motors from vendors.  They aren't the
same despite what common sense would tell you.  This
one was the ticket, and the 9-year old magician's
assistant said that the car kept "looking" at him and
seemed to be growling "get off my property".  That's
his favorite car, so I guess that they have a deeper
relationship than I do.  Car never said a word to me
yet outside of morse code with the sigal sentry on a
low tank.

========================

I also pulled out the 1973.  

Some ways back I described the following:

New brake system.  Replaced everything that wears. 
All cylinders at wheels and firewall, calipers, pads,
shoes, soft lines.  Booster done 3 years ago and not
suspect.

Reassembled correctly as far as I can tell (I've done
2 other similar cars successfully).


Brakes do not work properly.


When I hit the brakes, the response is sluggish and
takes double the effort and double the distance to
stop, unable to even approach locking the brakes.

Felt the same way when the booster went out 2 years
ago.  It's new and the pedal gets even harder if the
engine is shut off and vacuum is absent, so the
booster IS working.

Feels almost like only the rears are doing the work.

I was told that perhaps it is the metering block that
is located on the framerail near the steering box.

Was told to open both the front and rear circuits and
punch/hold the pedal down, close both.  

I did so twice and the car is still not right.  There
is the faintest hint of its old self until 40% of the
pedal stroke on the first push, and it gets hard
again.

I am uncertain what to do next.  

I may have fried the metering block during bleeding? 
The brakes were just fine before, and I just wanted to
be safe, so I replaced everything.  There is some sort
of a spingey thingey that works as a proportioning
valve, according to the FSM.  



The FSM also says that a firm application of the
brakes will reset a metering valve that was latched
open, closing off a circuit.

http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/293/page13.htm
http://imperialclub.com/Yr/1973/FSM/Chassis/html/05-021.htm

The valve, as far as I can tell, is supposed to be in
the IN position, closest to the firewall.  Mine is in
the OUT position, closest to the radiator.  I can
manually push it in, but applying pressure to the
brakes forces it out.  The FSM shows a tool holding
the  valve pin OUT during bleeding, but nothing is
said about pushing it back in.  


I conclude that I have a failed valve.



Anyone got a 72/73 parts-car?  I'd be willing to trade
a nice set of wheel-covers or something?  It would
probably take 15 minutes or less to remove and is the
size of your fist.  follow the lines out of the MC
down and there you'll see a little cast cylinder with
lots of lines going in/out.

Kenyon Wills
 
 






















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