FW: Re: IML: 64 Imp wiring problem

["JAY D'ANGELO" <cadij@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thnaks all for the advice.  The neutral safety switch was the culprit on the 
starting issue.  The rough idling in park and drive had to be ignition.  I 
replaced the points with a Pertronix system and it now idles smooth.

The problem I have now, may be  linkage adjustment.  I replaced the stock 
carb with an Edelbrock 1406 and used their Chrysler linkage adapter. I 
attached the vacuum line to the driver's side port of the carb - or shoulkd 
it be the left one?  But, the car has little take off response and it won't 
kick down into passing gear.  The timing is right on at 10.  I'm not sure 
what adjustment to make - shorten or lengthen the cable - before I mess it 
up, can someone point me in the right direction?


> From: RandalPark@xxxxxxx
> Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: 64 Imp wiring problem
> Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 13:45:36 -0400
>
> There are several things that can cause this, mostly all of them would be 
> switch/connector/wire related. My first try would be the neutral safety 
> switch, as you have suggested. This part has failed on ALL of my Chrysler 
> and Ford cars. I have learned what to do to bypass the switch, should I 
> suspect a problem. 90% of the time this has been it.
>
> You should also check and clean the connections at the starter relay, 
> starter, and anything else that you can reach or see.
>
> My '68 Imperial had a totally different problem with exactly the same 
> symptoms. I mention this as the least likely scenario, but still a 
> possibility. It has a bad wire running through the "loom" between the 
> starter relay and the starter motor. It is the smaller of the two wires, 
> going to the starter, and is currently bypassed to enable the car to run. 
> This was difficult to find, but not after replacing virtually every other 
> component first, and realizing that it had to be the wire itself. This car 
> had been parked for over 20 years, so it is hard to say why this happened. 
> I suspect it had given trouble before since the starter, relay, ignition 
> switch, and neutral safety switch all still looked new from someone who had 
> been through this before.
>
> A corroded wire/switch/connector can cause an intermittant problem that 
> only time and patience can cure.
>
> Paul W.
>
> In an email dated 1/10/2005 5:24:21 pm GMT Daylight time, "JAY D'ANGELO" 
> <cadij@xxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
>
> >Here is a new problem I hope someone can help me with.  Usually, this 
> occurs
> >when I try to start the car for the first time.  I turn on the key, the
> >radio plays, but there is no engagement of the starter - like the battery 
> is
> >dead.
> >
> >I pulled the wire loom connector from the firewall and found the 
> connections
> >dirty and corroded.  I cleaned them up, exposing clean metal and plugged 
> it
> >back in and it started.
> >
> >The next day it wouldn't start again unless I "jiggiled" the wires.  
> >Thinking the connectors strill were not making contact, I made new wire
> >connectors about 3 inches long and plugged them in, then tried again.  
> The
> >car started.
> >
> >The next day, it wouldn't unless I moved the wires around.  Once it's
> >running for the day, it will restart.
> >
> >I'm thinking two things:  One of the 3 ignition wires to the connector 
> has a
> >short or something, or the neutral safety switch is shot.  A new one is 
> on
> >the way.
> >
> >What do you think, guys?
> >
> >Jay
> >
> >
> >
> >
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