Re: Re: IML: 64 Imp wiring problem

["Dave" <Wilkerbeast01@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

The vacumn advance should be attached to a port on the carb that supplies 
venturi vacumn, the opposite of manifold vacumn. If you place your finger 
(Or a vac guage, for those rich mechanics) a venturi port will show highest 
vac when the engine is accelerating (revving) and none at idle.

David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)

"I live in the heavens. I reside on mountain tops. I am at constant vigil 
over thee. I monitor thy righteous ways. Thy levels art mine to command. 
When thou art in trouble, I will help thee through distorted times. When 
thou art low, the touch of my hand shall raise thy spirit to the proper 
level. When thou are too high, I shall terminate thee with a swift stroke of 
my sword. When thy wires are frayed and broken, my angels shall use solder 
and iron to heal thee. Thou art the circuit, I am the chosen one, I am the 
TECH CONTROLLER!"

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "JAY D'ANGELO" <cadij@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 2:06 PM
Subject: FW: Re: IML: 64 Imp wiring problem


> Thnaks all for the advice.  The neutral safety switch was the culprit on 
> the starting issue.  The rough idling in park and drive had to be 
> ignition.  I replaced the points with a Pertronix system and it now idles 
> smooth.
>
> The problem I have now, may be  linkage adjustment.  I replaced the stock 
> carb with an Edelbrock 1406 and used their Chrysler linkage adapter. I 
> attached the vacuum line to the driver's side port of the carb - or 
> shoulkd it be the left one?  But, the car has little take off response and 
> it won't kick down into passing gear.  The timing is right on at 10.  I'm 
> not sure what adjustment to make - shorten or lengthen the cable - before 
> I mess it up, can someone point me in the right direction?
>
>
> > From: RandalPark@xxxxxxx
> > Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: IML: 64 Imp wiring problem
> > Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 13:45:36 -0400
> >
> > There are several things that can cause this, mostly all of them would be 
> > switch/connector/wire related. My first try would be the neutral safety 
> > switch, as you have suggested. This part has failed on ALL of my Chrysler 
> > and Ford cars. I have learned what to do to bypass the switch, should I 
> > suspect a problem. 90% of the time this has been it.
> >
> > You should also check and clean the connections at the starter relay, 
> > starter, and anything else that you can reach or see.
> >
> > My '68 Imperial had a totally different problem with exactly the same 
> > symptoms. I mention this as the least likely scenario, but still a 
> > possibility. It has a bad wire running through the "loom" between the 
> > starter relay and the starter motor. It is the smaller of the two wires, 
> > going to the starter, and is currently bypassed to enable the car to run. 
> > This was difficult to find, but not after replacing virtually every other 
> > component first, and realizing that it had to be the wire itself. This car 
> > had been parked for over 20 years, so it is hard to say why this happened. 
> > I suspect it had given trouble before since the starter, relay, ignition 
> > switch, and neutral safety switch all still looked new from someone who 
> > had been through this before.
> >
> > A corroded wire/switch/connector can cause an intermittant problem that 
> > only time and patience can cure.
> >
> > Paul W.
> >
> > In an email dated 1/10/2005 5:24:21 pm GMT Daylight time, "JAY D'ANGELO" 
> > <cadij@xxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
> >
> > >Here is a new problem I hope someone can help me with.  Usually, this
> > occurs
> > >when I try to start the car for the first time.  I turn on the key, the
> > >radio plays, but there is no engagement of the starter - like the 
> > >battery
> > is
> > >dead.
> > >
> > >I pulled the wire loom connector from the firewall and found the
> > connections
> > >dirty and corroded.  I cleaned them up, exposing clean metal and plugged
> > it
> > >back in and it started.
> > >
> > >The next day it wouldn't start again unless I "jiggiled" the wires. 
> > >Thinking the connectors strill were not making contact, I made new wire
> > >connectors about 3 inches long and plugged them in, then tried again.
> > The
> > >car started.
> > >
> > >The next day, it wouldn't unless I moved the wires around.  Once it's
> > >running for the day, it will restart.
> > >
> > >I'm thinking two things:  One of the 3 ignition wires to the connector
> > has a
> > >short or something, or the neutral safety switch is shot.  A new one is
> > on
> > >the way.
> > >
> > >What do you think, guys?
> > >
> > >Jay
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> > >
> >
> >
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>
>
>
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