Glenn Just because you had a mechanic there does not mean much. You need a 1/2" deep socket and a 4" extention to do the deed after yo coat the bolt and nut with a break um lose/ anti- stick type of juice. You may want to do this for about two to three days. I have found that if I do not do this, I break the bolt ( or two ). The bolts are really studs from the bottom of the seat frame. There is two each on each out side of the seat assembly. Under the drivers seat area is a red wire. Take the clip appart before you try to re-move the seat. This wire is above the floor, not below it. On the passenger side between the seat and the floor is a down-ward pointing nut assembly. It takes a 5/8" - 11/16 or like area sized wrench. Remove this nut. Then pull upward and move the bolt assembly/ seat torque bar away from the hole. If you have separate seats then look for this anchor nut on the bottom right of the drivers seat also. And on seperate seats the red wire will be there also. Now back to under the car for the seat studs. Rodger & Gabby Colo Spgs '47 De Soto Custom w/Fluid Drive & passenger door mounted swamp cooler '62 Crown Coupe w/std A/C & Auto-Pilot '66 Le Baron w/dual A/C & reverbed AM/FM '70 Overlander - InterNational Dbl '77 D150 w/360, NP 4 Spd, 12 Bolt Axle, OEM Buckets & etc ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm