RE: IML: Dual Master Cylinder Install - 63

["bill parker" <hemirr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Mark, here's the scoop if you decide to do it (which I did).  The one thing 
I can't say for yours, as mine is a '65 with the canister power brake 
booster, if you have the bellows style, you will have a clearance issue 
between the lid of the master cylinder and the bottom forward edge of the 
booster.  I understand that if you are careful to use a master cylinder with 
a flatter style lid, it will clear.   Anyway, I recommend asking for a drum 
brake master cylinder for a '67 Chrysler or Imperial with power brakes, this 
is the one I used.  The rest of the parts list, using Mopar parts where 
available, is:

Master Cylinder Fitting (Violet anodized) Mopar part number 6026887
Master Cylinder Fitting (Blue anodized) Mopar part number 6026888
Fitting for brake line from Master cylinder to your original junction block 
input:  Mopar part number 6031714
Flare Plug 3/8" thread, such as Eaton 131X3
Flare Union 3/16" tube, such as Eaton/Weatherhead 302X4
Two lengths 3/16" brake line, one to go from Master cylinder to junction 
block (for front brakes) and one from Master cylinder to Flare Union (for 
rear brakes), ideally with enough extra length to make a relief loop in each 
line.

You will not need a proportioning valve, combo valve, or anything else when 
converting from single to dual system but keeping 4 wheel drum brakes.  The 
original junction block has no proportioning or pressure control fuction, 
nor is one needed.

You will need a quality double-flare tool to make your new lines using the 
above listed Mopar part number Master Cylinder fittings.  The other way to 
do it is to get adaptors at your local parts store (NAPA has supplied them 
to me before on other projects) to use the regular 3/16" brake lines and the 
pre-installed fittings on them with the master cylinder.  Just get the 
master cylinder, the two pieces of pre-made brake line, have them laid out 
on the counter at the parts store, and ask for adaptors to mate the lines to 
the master cylinder.  If you make them yourself, you will probably have 
difficulty using a cheap double flare kit with an aluminum clamp block.  
Just use a set with a steel clamp block.  Mine is a Snap On, but there are 
others available, probably cheaper.  Making your own lines with the Mopar 
master cylinder fittings makes for the cleanest installation, but the other 
way using the additional adaptors will work too.

Now, install the master cylinder in place of the orginal single pot one.  
Run a line from the rear pot of the dual cylinder down to the input of the 
junction block.  This is to feed the front brakes.  Use the Flare Plug to 
plug the opening in the junction block which feeds the single rear brake 
line.  Now install the Flare Union to the line going to the rear of the car. 
 Run a line from the front pot of the dual cylinder down to the union, 
connecting the front pot of the mastery cylinder to the rear brake line.  
The reason for hooking the rear pot to the front brakes and vice-versa is 
that is how Ma Mopar did it, and particularly if you decide to convert to 
the AAJ discs later, your lines will fall right into place on the disc brake 
master cylinder you'll get then.  Once you have the lines made and hooked 
up, disconnect the lines from the master cylinder so you can bleed it 
according to instructions in the box, then reconnect the lines, and bleed 
the entire system as usual.  You're done.

Anyone in my area wishing to take a look at my conversion, email me.  Also I 
bought the AAJ disc kit along with all the required parts and will be 
installing it this spring or summer sometime if anyone develops questions 
about that, although the IML club website tech section has a member's 
installation story with pics on there which pretty much says it all.

Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana
'60 Chrysler Saratoga kustom; '62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '64 Dart convertible; 
'65 Barracuda \6; '65 Imperial; '68 Barracuda FB 340-S; '69 Barracuda FB now 
360; '70 Challenger now 440; '72 Cuda '340




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