IML: 413 engine of a 1960 Imperial

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Luke, 

Welcome back to the IML from whatever rock it is that
you've been hiding under!  It's been too long.




The heads all interchange, so there "shouldn't" be a
difference between an AC and non-AC car's engine
heads.

Based on memory, these do not go anywhere.  The
threads on the stud should stop before you get close
to bottoming things out, thereby precluding the
possibility of bottoming out?  That's what I would
think without going and inspecting...  

If you think about it, designing the head so that the
mounting bolt holes create a passageway into an intake
or exhaust runner would be a recipe for leaks and lots
of cursing, although I'm not presently looking at a
head and will await confirmation from someone that can
double check.



Your fellow 1960 LeBaron owner, 

-Kenyon




--- Luke Nola <luke@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Hi all.  Eeeeek! Talking about 413's - I hate that
> feeling when you  
> are torting up bolts and they go all floppy on you.
> May just have  
> stripped the thread on the second to bottom intake
> manifold bolt on  
> the 413. Does anyone know if the thread on these
> goes through to the  
> inside of the heads? Or do the bolts bottom out? I'm
> probably now  
> looking at ripping the head off and re-threading the
> bugger but I'd  
> live to know if that muck is falling into the
> tappets?
> 
>   I've added air to a non-air factory car here so
> this could be part  
> of the problem, all the extra hardware bolted onto
> the intake  
> manifold and heads that were not set up for it?
> Someone out there  
> might have a head off or apart and be able to look
> for me?
> 
> cheers,
> 
> 
> Luke
> 1960 Le Baron
> On 17/06/2006, at 4:18 PM, Dick Benjamin wrote:
> 
> > Hello, Robert;
> >
> > I don?t think there is a big difference in using
> 20W50, rather than  
> > SAE30W,
> > especially in the colder months.  Considering your
> climate, I think  
> > I would
> > just switch to the 20W50 and use it without worry.
>   It should provide
> > adequate lubrication for startup, the only better
> thing to do would  
> > be to
> > install a pre-lube system (which runs an auxiliary
> oil pump to  
> > circulate oil
> > before starting), but even that won't help the
> cylinder wall wear  
> > caused by
> > startup, because the cylinder walls are lubricated
> by spray from the
> > rotating parts.  Also, during cold startup, you
> are running a much  
> > richer
> > mixture, so there is some inevitable dilution of
> the oil with raw  
> > gas -
> > that's another reason to make sure the engine is
> thoroughly warmed  
> > up each
> > time you start it.
> >
> > Dick Benjamin
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Rob van  
> > der Es
> > Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:28 AM
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: RE: IML: Two questions about the 413
> engine of a 1960  
> > Imperial
> >
> > Hello Dick,
> >
> > Thanks for your very clear answers! (as always a
> joy to read!!)
> > I am glad my message survived a quick death from
> your delete key LOL
> >
> > Yes, I must admit I have had the bad habit in
> making short test drives
> > last year (because the car was registrated at that
> time, so I have  
> > to made
> > illegal short runs to sort things out..) so it
> might be wise to change
> > that oil even if it has been used for only 500
> miles or so.
> >
> > I am not planning to drive (or even start) the car
> with  
> > temperatures below
> > 32F, so I think I will be safe with SAE30.
> > But ofcourse I can use 20W50 too, do you think it
> has any benefits  
> > to use
> > this grade?
> > I can imagine that a 20W50 is easier to crank
> around in an cold engine
> > then a straight SAE30, so lubrication with a 20W50
> will be better  
> > at cold
> > starts then?? You see, I have always learned that
> a cold start will  
> > put
> > the most stress on an engine!
> > Anything you can do to make the lubrication during
> cold starts the  
> > best
> > will pay off in the end, so I have been told.
> >
> > Thanks also for your suggestions with regard to
> the pre-ignition  
> > setting,
> > I have set it back to its former setting (16
> degrees BTDC) and I am  
> > very
> > happy with it! So at the moment I will leave it
> there.
> >
> > And yes, these cars are a delight to drive around
> town ..
> > Not only for the headturning power, but also for
> the overall feel of
> > quality. The 727 is the best automatic gearbox I
> have ever  
> > experienced,
> > even a new Mercedes doesn´t shifts that smooth!!
> > And throttle response is that good that you
> sometimes think that  
> > you are
> > driving a much lighter car!!
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Robert
> >
> > Op Vr, 16 juni, 2006 3:20 am, schreef Dick
> Benjamin:
> >
> >> I just returned from vacation, and found about
> 200 IML messages on my
> >> e-mail, most of which died a quick death under my
> "delete" key,  
> >> but this
> >> one did catch my eye.
> >>
> >> On the oil change question, the reason to change
> oil is from
> >> contamination caused by starting the engine many
> times, especially  
> >> if it
> >> is not run long enough to evaporate all the
> moisture that  
> >> condenses into
> >> the oil.  If the engine has always been
> thoroughly warmed up by  
> >> driving it
> >> 10 miles or so, it
> >> is safe to change it every 1500 to 2000 miles
> even if this takes  
> >> more than
> >> a year.  However, if it has been started and
> stopped without a  
> >> thorough
> >> warm up, I'd change it and the oil filter now,
> and then avoid this  
> >> type of
> >>  operation in the future.
> >>
> >> As for the grade of oil, SAE30W was recommended
> when the car was new,
> >> unless the temperature was expected to be below
> 32F the next time  
> >> the car
> >> was to be operated.  In your climate, if you feel
> you might want  
> >> to use
> >> the car when it is below freezing when you start
> it, I think it  
> >> is  OK to
> >> use 20W50 your car, in fact you can use that year
> round.  I would  
> >> not use
> >> the 10W40 or 10W30 that is becoming so common now
> in that old an  
> >> engine.
> >> Note that
> >> SAE30W does not mean "poor quality" oil or "non
> detergent" oil.  Many
> >> older Diesel engine and high performance engine
> manufacturers  
> >> recommend
> >> using this oil, and premium grade oils in this
> grade are usually  
> >> available
> >> in heavy equipment supply houses.  Using a Diesel
> rated 
=== message truncated ===



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