I believe you are right, without taking measurements, it looks as though
the only difference between the l/h and r/h caliper is the the bleed screw
and hose connection are switched. Good news is I finally got that
puck out of the caliper, those pucks are unusual , red anodized aluminum, there
is some corrosion, I think I will clean it up and treat it with alodine before I
put it back together. Mike Becker
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 3:48
AM
Subject: Re: IML: Budd Brake
Calipers
> From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re:
IML: Brake calipers > >Chris, if it turns out, that only one side
caliper is available, > this will sound crazy, but I DID it, on one of
my RamChargers. > I used the opposite side caliper, on one side of the
truck. Since > the caliper was symmetric, the only difference, was the
bleeder >. It ended up on the lower side of the caliper, below the
brake > line fitting. I simply bled the caliper, holding it in a
position, that > would purge the air to the top, of the bleeder.
Then I installed > the caliper, as usual. I looked in the FSM, and this
might work > for you, with a little brake line routing. I understand
this is a 4 > piston caliper, but it looked symmetric. If your really
stuck. > This might work. And I haven't touched that caliper for
over > 4yrs. Just another" In field modification" Some may
poo-poo > this operation, however sometimes, desperation leads
to > innovation! Ya'll have a nice day,
Dave.
IIRC, your problem with the existing caliper
is that the 'puck' is siezed, and you don't want to break it. I suppose
that if all else fails, you could buy the wrong side caliper, try to force
the 'puck' on the one you have, and if it breaks, substitute the one from
the new caliper. Would that work, in a pinch? I'll have
to look at my FSM once I get
going.
-Kle. '69 Crown 4DHT
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