Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit

["Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Tom,

I ordered the limiter from a local electronics part store in the Netherlands.
But since this device is produced by an American company I am sure it will
be a lot easier to get it in the USA :)

You have to find you a sort of Radio Shack or similair store, if you can't
  find the part I can order one for you.

I will send the part then to you, or you send the cluster to me and I will
do the conversion as promised before.

Good luck,

Robert


Op Vr, 11 mei, 2007 2:37 am, schreef Tom Scott:
> Rob...where did you get the solid state limiter?
> Tom
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:12 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
>
>
>
>> Hello again Tom,
>>
>>
>> Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the instrument cluster!
>> Paul is right here (isn't he always :), your voltage limiter (inside the
>>  Temp gauge) is defective.
>> This is a sort of breakerpoints construction, with a bi-metal that is
>> heated by the 12 Volts of your car battery. When the piece of metal has
>> heated up the breakerpoints are opened, the bi-metal cools down then
>> and the points are closed. The whole cycle starts again and again and
>> again....
>>
>> Resulting in a sort of constant voltage for the gauge of appr. 6 Volts.
>>
>>
>> Glad to hear that you disconnected all the senders, so your gauges will
>> be save then. It is very easy to fry them. You have to pull out the
>> instrument cluster to gain access to the old limiter, you must
>> disconnect it permanently from the terminals of the Temp gauge.
>>
>> In case you haven't pulled out the cluster before, it is very easy.
>> Remove the chrome ring (one small Philips screw), unscrew the securing
>> nut for the time-adjustment knob of your clock, remove the the 3 larger
>> Philips screws that are securing the cluster in the dash.
>>
>>
>> Now you can pull out the cluster a little (those wires are not so long
>> to get it all the way out) and remove all the wires that are connected
>> to the gauges. Make a note how everything was connected if you still
>> haven't found your FSM back.
>>
>> If you have the instrument cluster on the workbench, you can remove
>> three other Philips screws that are holding the Temp gauge in place. You
>> can take it out now.
>>
>> Now comes the tricky bit, remove the dial from the gauge (two small
>> screws) but remove the small white wire that is running to a terminal on
>>  the dial first! You will see the inside of the Temp gauge now.
>> It will be easy then to remove the remainings of your old limiter so
>> that it is no longer connected to the terminals of the gauge.
>>
>> You can go now for a NAPA replacement, but if you are handy with a
>> solder iron you can also go for a modern solid state voltage limiter.
>> That is why the old remainings of your defective limiter must be
>> removed, cause what we want to do is connected the the leads of the
>> solid state device to the terminals of temp gauge. I have made this
>> conversion a year ago and used  the LT1083CP5 for it, it delivers a
>> rocksteady 5 Volts and you can draw as much as 8 Amp. from it!
>>
>> It is a very small device and it can be easily mounted at the back of
>> your temp gauge. The metal housing will be the heatsink for the voltage
>> regulator/limiter then.
>>
>> I have make this conversion for almost a year ago now, and all the
>> gauges are working trouble free since then.
>>
>> I know, this whole conversion thing sound rather complicated but it
>> isn't!
>>
>> I don't know how much you are in a hurry (problaby as much as I am to
>> get my car back on the road..) but please feel free to send the gauge
>> (or
>> complete cluster to me) and I will do the conversion for you.
>>
>> It will take 5 days to send it to me, and 5 days to send it back so
>> within 2 weeks you should be able to fit the instrument cluster again.
>>
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>>
>> Robert
>>
>>
>>
>> Op Do, 10 mei, 2007 12:31 am, schreef Tom Scott:
>>
>>> I disconnected all the senders so I don't fry my gauges.  Can the
>>> voltage limiter be replaced without taking the gauges out?  Is it a
>>> simple remove and replace job or am I missing something? Tom -----
>>> Original Message -----
>>> From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx>
>>> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 6:22 PM
>>> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> That part doesn't effect the voltage limiter.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Paul W.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: rlkidd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> Sent: Wed, 9 May 2007 12:28 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Try unplugging the sender at the tank again. The
>>>> rheostat may be bad in the new part.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, 9 May 2007 12:10:52 -0700 (PDT)
>>>> tom higgins <thomash85715@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>>> Why would this happen at the same time as the sender was
>>>>> being changed out?  Just a coincidence?  Tom said the other gauges
>>>>> read normal until the replacement device went in.
>>>>>
>>>>> randalpark@xxxxxxx wrote:  The internal voltage limiter has
>>>>> failed. You will need to bypass it and
>>>>> install an external one on the back of the cluster. By being
>>>>> pegged the gauges are receiving too much voltage, so they will
>>>>> burn out very soon if you don't disconnect them.
>>>>>
>>>>> There is information about this at ther OIC web site.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Paul W.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: shelbyguy@xxxxxxx
>>>>> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>>> Sent: Wed, 9 May 2007 10:46 AM
>>>>> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Well, I got my rebuilt fuel sender for my 60 Crown back
>>>>> last night and I just got finished installing it. Prior to the
>>>>> rebuild, my fuel gauge remained on E at all times. The oil
>>>>> pressure gauge worked as did the temperature and ammeter gauges.
>>>>> Now, after installing
>>>>> the rebuilt fuel sender, the fuel gauge registers FULL even though
>>>>> I
>>>>> know there is only 3 gallons in the tank, the temp gauge pegged at
>>>>> H as
>>>>> did the oil pressure gauge. Anybody have any ideas what happened?
>>>>> Thanx
>>>>> Tom
>>>>> 60 4dr Crown Southampton.
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