Re: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge - Tools

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

This point, along with safety, can not be over emphasized with respect 
to this job. The highest quality heavy duty puller makes the difference 
between success and failure in doing this job.

If you own a tapered rear axle car (pre-1965) and plan to keep it, 
buying one of these will never be a mistake. If you don't use it, the 
person who ends up fixing your car will.

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: imperialken@xxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, 15 May 2007 2:58 PM
Subject: RE: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge - Tools

I've been reading as different members describe horrors related to 
various
repairs of there Imperials.  And while I applaud anyone who can save a 
few
bucks during the process, my experience has taught me that "tools" is 
not
the place to cut corners.  The MAC puller referenced below is a quality
tool. (and it's not cheap)  Sure you can get the same tool at Harbor 
Freight
for a fraction of the cost.  But it WILL NOT do the same job.  I have 
seen
people spend many a frustrating hour trying to accomplish something with
inferior tools, only to fail.  I'll walk up with Snap-On, Mac or good
Craftsman tools and perform the same task in seconds.  To me the better
tools are worth it.

Just my .02

Ken
67 Crown 4 Dr Ht
68 LeBaron 4 Dr Ht



-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Kenyon Wills
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:10 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge


--- spicemanii@xxxxxxx wrote:

> The hub puller I have is from Mac Tools. I bought
> the extra legs, so it has 5 and not 3.

The part # for the
> puller: PP827B.  The 2 more legs that you also want
> are #PP827B-2. The assembly was $145.99 and the 2
> extra legs were $99.10. They paid shipping. Joe
> Machado

Joe is right on with that information.  If the MAC
tool fails to pull your drum off, especially with a
good pneumatic impact wrench driving it (manual stuff
is for the birds in my book), your junk just isn't
coming apart and you might want to pass and move
forward to a replacement axle or cut your drum off.

I have plenty of grease on the tool's threads and on
the face where it meets and spins on the axle spindle
too, so that my twisting force is retarded as little
as possible by friction where there's metal twisting
on metal.

I pulled a pair of 1960 Fury (tapered) drums (that I'd
never pulled off before) yesterday with this
discussion in mind as I did it.

once the tool was set up and snug, each drum took less
than 15 seconds of pneumatic impact wrench pressure to
pop, and that's about normal per my experience.

I keep expecting to get a "stubborn" drum that matches
the tightness of the drums that so many others seem to
have, but it just hasn't happened on the 10+ axles
I've done...



Kenyon Wills

























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