Re: IML: 62 Rebuild Engine

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

Steve's advice to drive the car is right on.  

You don't have much to lose besides a few quarts of
oil.
 
I suggest getting a tool to check compression -
they're cheap and easily borrowed if you know someone
with one.
  
Test now, and in another 250 miles to see if things
are improving or staying the same.  This will also
tell you the relative health of the rings/valves and
whether your engine is sealing properly/evenly across
all cylinders.  I don't have the desired readings
memorized, so go double check, but I seem to recall
that when pressure falls below say 85 lbs, that's not
desireable, and an engine with pretty consistent
pressure is better than one with lots of variance,
although the engine's design is very tolerant of
varied pressures.

I strongly disagree about putting a 440 into a 413
car, although it will certainly work and won't be
obvious.

Your engine block and heads are likely to be
rebuildable unless there is some sort of failure or
crack someplace, and the leaking coolant isn't a fatal
flaw.  Try BARS STOP LEAK if you have not done so
already - the liquid in the jug beats pellets in my
book.

There are plenty of 413 cores laying around - I
couldn't give them away when I was selling through a
yard of 413's and 440's...    

Your machine shop will be able to tell what's up if
they get to inspect the engine.

Only weak point on 413 rebuilds that I know of is
pistons, and they're just not as common but are still
around.

My position:  Keep your car stock.  If you do move to
a 440, do you really want that old 413 hanging around
your property through 3 moves and 2 states over the
next 20 years?

At the end of the day, it really doesn't matter that
much which one you decide to do, but please don't give
up on your 413 just yet.  There may be hope.
  



Kenyon Wills
 
 






















       
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