IML: '70 Wiring Diagram & Electric Windows

[Joe Strickland <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Edwin;

If you do not get the wiring diagrams from the member who volunteered, I do have diagrams for the '73 models which are similar.

On the '73 New Yorker which I owned years ago, the socket that plugged onto the back of the master switch for the windows was the culprit.  The contacts are held in place in a two-piece plastic housing.  The plastic housing appeared to be a soft nylon plastic or something similar.  On my car some of the contacts had broken inside the plastic housing.  At the time I was unable to get a replacement socket from a dealer, so I located some fiberglass of suitable thickness and drilled holes in it to accept some contacts that I pressed into place and then soldered the wires to the contacts on the back side.  The toughest part was getting the holes drilled in the fiberglass in precise positions!  I used a drill press at work to do it.  I used the existing switch to create a template to transfer the positions to the fiberglass that I was working with.  The fiberglass was trimmed so that the switch latches would hold it to the connector socket assembly.  It was quite a job, but it did work.

Later I discovered that the car also had several wires that had gone bad from flexing at the driver's door, so that meant another job to put in new wires to replace the ones that had opened up or were intermittent.

The '69 and up Imperials and Chryslers used a window lift switch arrangement that changes the polarity of the voltage applied to the window lift motors in order to change the direction of window movement.  The older cars previous to '69 had motors with two windings, one for up and one for down.  The wiring and switches for those models are much more simple than the '69 and up models.  '69 and up models have at least twice as many wires as the older ones on a per door basis because of the polarity switching method.

I changed several of the master control switches before I discovered that wiring was the real culprit on the car instead of the switch.  I still have one in the box.  I hope the problem on your car is just the switch.  If it is Elijah Scott may be able to help you.  He may also be able to supply a connector for your car if that is the problem.

Joe

Joseph W. Strickland
1021 Vaughan Lane
Tioga, TX 76271-2937

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