> Edwin; > > If you do not get the wiring diagrams from the member who volunteered, I > do have diagrams for the '73 models which are similar. > > On the '73 New Yorker which I owned years ago, the socket that plugged > onto the back of the master switch for the windows was the culprit. The > contacts are held in place in a two-piece plastic housing. The plastic > housing appeared to be a soft nylon plastic or something similar. On my > car some of the contacts had broken inside the plastic housing. At the > time I was unable to get a replacement socket from a dealer, so I located > some fiberglass of suitable thickness and drilled holes in it to accept > some contacts that I pressed into place and then soldered the wires to the > contacts on the back side. The toughest part was getting the holes > drilled in the fiberglass in precise positions! I used a drill press at > work to do it. I used the existing switch to create a template to > transfer the positions to the fiberglass that I was working with. The > fiberglass was trimmed so that the switch latches would hold it to the > connector socket assembly. It was quite a job, but it did > work. > > Later I discovered that the car also had several wires that had gone bad > from flexing at the driver's door, so that meant another job to put in new > wires to replace the ones that had opened up or were intermittent. > > The '69 and up Imperials and Chryslers used a window lift switch > arrangement that changes the polarity of the voltage applied to the window > lift motors in order to change the direction of window movement. The > older cars previous to '69 had motors with two windings, one for up and > one for down. The wiring and switches for those models are much more > simple than the '69 and up models. '69 and up models have at least twice > as many wires as the older ones on a per door basis because of the > polarity switching method. > > I changed several of the master control switches before I discovered that > wiring was the real culprit on the car instead of the switch. I still > have one in the box. I hope the problem on your car is just the switch. > If it is Elijah Scott may be able to help you. He may also be able to > supply a connector for your car if that is the problem. > > Joe > > Joseph W. Strickland > 1021 Vaughan Lane > Tioga, TX 76271-2937 > > ________________________________________ > PeoplePC Online > A better way to Internet > http://www.peoplepc.com > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be > shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the > Administrators should be sent to iml.webmonster@xxxxxxxxx > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > Hi Joe, Thanks for your reply to my e-mail. I have found a member who will scan the diagrams of the 1970 chrysler and send them to me. Thanks for your additional info. Best regards, Edwin de Bruijn. ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to iml.webmonster@xxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm