RE: IML: non starting 1983 EFI Found the problem, NOW WHAT?

[<DickB@xxxxxxxxx>]

I'm glad our trick found the problem for you.  Any electronics engineer or
technician or electronics repair man can fix this problem for you - I'm not
clear whether the problem is on the end of the harness or within the ASDM
unit receptacle.  No matter, but you will have to take the bad part in to
someone to have it repaired. If you cannot find anyone to do it, you can
send it to me and I will fix it for you.  Contact me directly for a mailing
address.   We'll be away for a few days next week, but I can get to it after
that.

Dick Benjamin (e-mail to DickB@xxxxxxxxx)


-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Bill Longest
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 4:47 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: non starting 1983 EFI Found the problem, NOW WHAT?

I played with the car today to get it to start and
run. It now does both BUT the issue is inside the
rubber housing of the ADSM wire.  It is the yellow
wire. If I push on that wire, the car stalls and will
not restart until I wiggle it around to make contact.

It there a way to get the wires out of the rubber
housing to solder them back onto the copper
receptacles? Can replacement be purchased?

Please Help!!

Bill Longest



--- DickB@xxxxxxxxx wrote:

> You can check your ballast resistor with an
> ohm-meter - I would do that
> before replacing it  - they very seldom fail unless
> a terminal has worked
> loose or some other easily seen and diagnosed
> physical problem is evident.
> There are no tricky parts here - it is simply a
> length of resistance wire
> connected to each terminal.  The white stuff is
> merely an insulating medium
> - because the wire gets HOT!
> 
> I am suspicious of the ground connection on your
> ASDM, since this was the
> last thing fiddled with.  I'd remove that wire and
> inspect both ends of it,
> making sure that there is nothing but clean, bright
> metal contact to the
> ASDM metal case and the alternator bracket or other
> known solid ground
> point.  If you have the equipment to do it, solder
> both ends to the terminal
> lugs, don't trust "crimped on" connectors! 
> 
> If this doesn't fix it, try this:  Loosen the wing
> nut in the center of the
> air cleaner lid, and put about 1 or 2 ounces of gas
> in the depression, let
> it drain down the threads of the screw, then tighten
> the wing nut and
> immediately try to start the car normally,   If it
> starts right up, we know
> the problem was lack of fuel.  If it continues to
> run well until the next
> time you need to start it, and then refuses to start
> again, we know that the
> problem is lack of fuel during cranking.
> 
> The next thing to check is to put a test light or a
> meter on the dark green
> wire that goes back to the in-tank pump.   While you
> are trying to start it,
> there should be 12 volts on this point.  You should
> also hear the control
> fuel pump (in the air cleaner HSA) cycle on and off
> when you first twist the
> key to "on".  (sort of a 1 second "grunt" from the
> air cleaner area).
> 
> If this all seems correct, next check to see if the
> 23 volt power supply is
> running (you'll have to use a meter to do this - the
> test light would
> overload the power supply)?  I hope you have a
> wiring diagram (it's in the
> manuals) so you can find these points.
> 
> If there is no 12 volts going back to the in-tank
> pump, the ASDM has tripped
> - and you will have to cycle the key off and then
> back on to try again - if
> still no 12 volts there, it is possible the ASDM has
> failed - you can bypass
> it for testing purposes, although you will not have
> all the built in safety
> of the original system.   To bypass it, just unplug
> the harness to the ASDM
> and connect a wire between the two heavy wires on
> the plug that goes to the
> ASDM - this tells the system to "do it - dammit and
> forget all the safety
> lockouts".
> 
> Dick Benjamin
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Bill Longest
> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 8:23 AM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: IML: non starting 1983 EFI
> 
> 
> My 1983 stalled on me today.  It had been doing fine
> for the last 8 months once I grounded the shut down
> module to the radiator support.  Last week I decided
> to fix my horn and I moved the horn ground wire and
> the horn worked.  However the car began to "shut
> down".  It shut down twice but always started after
> a
> few minutes. So, I moved the shut down module ground
> wire to the alternator ground as Dick B. had said to
> do in the website notes. Ran fine for one day.  This
> morning it stopped and would not restart even after
> an
> hour.  I have pulled the ballast resistor and I am
> attempting to find a five prong resister, but NAPA
> does not have one in their books or on the shelf. 
> 
> It seems to shut down about 5 min after starting and
> was  not shutting down again for the entire trip.
> 
> But, as I said, today is will not restart. Any other
> ideas?
> 
> Bill Longest
> 
> 
> 
> 
>        
>
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